gose Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Personally I prefer a reticle with a mil based tree for wind and elevation holds (like the BRT, or EBR-2 reticles) over a bullet drop based one. It just seems easier to learn the distances for the various mil marks rather than trying to tailor a load to match a certain BDC reticle. What would you rather have in your favorite scope, mils or drops? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael1778 Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I happen to use MOA based scopes, but the principle holds. I voted "Mils" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I voted drops but that applies to my 3 gun rifle. I still prefer a mil-dot scope for my varmint rifle. Its about the clock. I feel I will be faster with drops. I'm rarely in a hurry to pull the trigger with the varminter, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Personally I prefer a reticle with a mil based tree for wind and elevation holds (like the BRT, or EBR-2 reticles) over a bullet drop based one. It just seems easier to learn the distances for the various mil marks rather than trying to tailor a load to match a certain BDC reticle. What would you rather have in your favorite scope, mils or drops? You don't have to tailor the load. If you know your dope, whether it is MOA or MIL, or SBR, you just correlate that to the right tick mark on the tree and press the shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gose Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 (edited) Personally I prefer a reticle with a mil based tree for wind and elevation holds (like the BRT, or EBR-2 reticles) over a bullet drop based one. It just seems easier to learn the distances for the various mil marks rather than trying to tailor a load to match a certain BDC reticle. What would you rather have in your favorite scope, mils or drops? You don't have to tailor the load. If you know your dope, whether it is MOA or MIL, or SBR, you just correlate that to the right tick mark on the tree and press the shot. Sure, but if my ammo doesnt line up with the calibrated reticle, I dont really see the point of a calibrated reticle? Which is why I kinda prefer a mil based one, if I have to learn my dope for each tick, I'd rather have them spaced out evenly in mils rather than in a somewhat arbitrary fashion. But yeah, not really a big deal either way. Edited February 4, 2014 by gose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Alright who is the wise guy who voted for irons??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPeel Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I had a bdc reticle scope and adjusted my zero to match the loads the best I could and hated it. Got a mil based reticle and rocked it the first time out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Alright who is the wise guy who voted for irons??? Probably the same guy that wants steel to fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 (edited) Alright who is the wise guy who voted for irons??? In all fairness. It doesn't matter to me. None of the lines or dots in a Mil reticle line up with trajectories any better than a BDC. I've run several BDC reticles now and I've always been able to find a complimentary zero to get the lines within 1moa at any 3gun distance. In general, when it comes to reticles, for me... less is more. I find even a traditional mil dot a bit busy for my taste. Edited February 4, 2014 by co-exprs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagdrag Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Not sure who posted it but I remember someone here mentioning zeroing their gun to a BDC holdover at a distance of like 300 or 400 yards (i.e. zeroing for 300 yards using the "300" yard holdover on the reticle). I voted mils but if I had a range where I could zero using a holdover at a longish or intermediate longish distance I could see that working out pretty well. Some of you may have better experience with this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
co-exprs Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I zero my Meopta at 400yds with my 400yd mark. Center dot zero ends up at 240yds. The center dot is 2moa, which gives me a top if the dot hold from 100 to 200yrds, center of dot from 200 to 300yds and bottom of dot from 300 to 350. Chevrons are spot on for 400, 500 and 600. This technique puts the BDC error in close, but who cares if you are 1moa off at 100yds. It also gives me spot on performance for the toughest shots you will make. 12" plates at 400. Works out excellent. Most BDC's can be zeroed in some such manor. When I walk stages, I convert distances into holds and simply memorize, "top, center, top, 400, low, low, low, center, center, low." Works well for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I have done it the same way as Mike and it does worked well when I remembered how I had zero'd. I used the 3rd dot in the 1-4MTAC for 400 yards and then confirmed the other holds. For under 400, the difference was negligible. Then I forgot I did that at RM3G and it took be a few shots on the long range stage to realize I was holding MOAs instead of BDCs. I am switching to a Mil/Mil in the XTRII for 2014 though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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