Lee G Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 If it's softer going reward it's gotta be slower coming forward right? Anything that makes contact while the hammer is moving needs polishing. I've used both the CGW TRS and the CZ Custom spring. I have broken both so I can't say one is more durable than the other. The advantage to using the CGW spring is you won't have to tweak it if you want a lighter trigger since it already is adjusted pretty well. Most drop in around 2.5 to 3 pounds. The CZ Custom springs seem to be more towards the 3.5 to 4 pounds without adjustment. The disadvantage to the CGW it is softer going forward, but I don't think it's soft enough to really effect most people. I think you would just have to try it for yourself. Addtionally If you adjust the OEM spring to be lighter it will have the same effect. For those that want a lighter spring with more responsive return you can remove material from the trigger bar to make it a little better. It helps to either know what you are doing or be willing to risk a $30 part. Springs are cheap, buy a few and play with them. I do recommend the floating trigger pin, it's a great upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 What's the best way to remove the original SP-01 Shadow trigger pin? I've heard of using multiple punches, starter punches, and all kind of punches. I want to replace it now before it breaks... I want to put one of the CGW floating trigger pins in so that I don't have to worry about pounding the OEM pin out during a match. Also going to try their reduced power trigger spring... and buy a few spares... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpankYa Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 What's the best way to remove the original SP-01 Shadow trigger pin? I've heard of using multiple punches, starter punches, and all kind of punches. I want to replace it now before it breaks... I want to put one of the CGW floating trigger pins in so that I don't have to worry about pounding the OEM pin out during a match. Also going to try their reduced power trigger spring... and buy a few spares... Just use a punch. Make sure the gun is against a solid surface and give it a really good whack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleL Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 When I removed the factory pin I was a little worried it would be a hassle, I've read of some people having issues removing it. I gave it a good whomp with a regular old punch, it didn't move, so I flipped the frame and tried from the other side and it popped right out. You have to fold over/destroy the flare to get it to come out, a punch that is too small may shove itself down in the roll pin, with a good punch it should come right out. As others have said a good solid surface is a big help, tables can give a little but concrete or very sturdy bench can make all the difference. Just remember the trigger spring will zoom out when you pull the pin, ask me how I know! The CGW pin goes right in and out. Awesome little upgrade. So far I like the lightened TRS, two matches and some practice sessions on it no problems so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mespo Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 The CGW pin and lightened TRS is the way to go. I make sure that I put a drop of oil on the TRS every couple hundred rounds and I have never had a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 So, the trigger pin can come out from either side? Sounds like the plan is to punch the trigger pin out from the side where the flare is the smallest? Good tips on the CGW reduced power trigger spring and floating pin. Thanks... I plan on going that route, too... Don't see a trigger pin punch on the Cajun Gun Works site... Guess I'll have to pick up a 2mm punch at Home Depot... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 So, the trigger pin can come out from either side? Sounds like the plan is to punch the trigger pin out from the side where the flare is the smallest? Good tips on the CGW reduced power trigger spring and floating pin. Thanks... I plan on going that route, too... Don't see a trigger pin punch on the Cajun Gun Works site... Guess I'll have to pick up a 2mm punch at Home Depot... For the factory trigger pin you push it out from left to right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleL Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Czhase, good info!! I hadn't read that anywhere. Is the pin larger on one end? I guess the first side I tried to hit was the wrong side. The pin came out really easy anyway so no big deal. I thought the factory pin was symmetrical from end to end, is the flare different on one end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Czhase, good info!! I hadn't read that anywhere. Is the pin larger on one end? I guess the first side I tried to hit was the wrong side. The pin came out really easy anyway so no big deal. I thought the factory pin was symmetrical from end to end, is the flare different on one end? The factory pins should be the same on both ends, for whatever reason left to right has always worked best for me. CZC does have a "new style" pin that is larger on one end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortuga Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 The first frame I removed the pin from was pretty bunged up and the flare on the pin gave no clear indication of what the pin OD was or for that matter where the center of the pin was. Turned a small drill bit about the same OD as the pin by hand and cut the flare off like you would the head of a rivet. That allowed me to see the OD and center of the pin better, might work for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malarkey Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Thanks Ceezer. I never thought to just buy pins. Get a finishing nail, put it through the TRS holes with the spring installed, then cut it with a pair of side cuts. Boom. Home made slave pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian45acp Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 if the original pin and the floating pin are meant to rotate how can the tapered CZC pin work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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