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Wolff type 2 mainspring won't work in 686


johniac7078

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Hi Folks: I am trying to improve the trigger pull on my 686-8 (frame mounted firing pin) and have tried the Wolff Type 2 main spring. I can not get it to work. I have switched to federal primers, am reseating them, but I keep getting light primer strikes. Sometimes I get a good solid hit on the primer, then sometimes it looks like it is barely dented. This happens reproducibly. I have installed an extended firing pin and reduced weight firing pin spring and the hammer is bobbed. It seems like I can't get 100% unless I am in the 7-9 lb pull range. At the moment I am pretty close to 8 but switched back to the original main spring and backed out the strain screw, which I am not so happy to have to do. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

John

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With Federal Primers seated below flush you should have reliable ignition with a hammer fall of between 36 and 46 ounces. Measured with a trigger pull gauge hooked around the hammer. You then adjust your overall pull by carefully and judiciously smoothing hammer, trigger, rebound block and cylinder stop and then lightening the rebound spring. Done properly your overall action weight will then be between 5 and 6 1/2 pounds. And will produce a good solid action job.

Just because the Wolf Spring is supposed to be reduced doesn't mean the arch is done right. Or it could be that your strain screw isn't seating well on the Wolf spring giving you inconsistent tension. I've had good luck with adjusting the factory springs by bending the spring and/or reducing the strain screw height. With the proper hammer fall I'm using an 11 pound rebound with up to a couple of coils cut off.

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The strain screw is meant to bottomed out.

What I did with my PPC revolver was to add a piece of shim stock (0.020") between the spring and the strain screw. The thickness of the shim can be played with until you get the desired result.

All of my revolvers now have the factory mainspring in them and used for IDPA.

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The Wolff reduced mainspring frequently needs a longer strain screw because the spring has more arch. It's a geometry thing. I replace the factory SS strain screw (which is soft and deforms easily) with an 8-32 socket set screw. They're grade 8. Adjust it so you get reliable igniton, put a small drop of 290 Loctite on it. The "strain screw must be fully tightened" crowd will scream bloody murder but it works well. Seat your Federal primers so they're ~ .008" below flush.

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