cpa5oh Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Just got a Stock II, the trigger is awful (feels like rough metal scraping against rough metal,) and I decided I'm going to try my hand at improving the trigger. The plunger has to be a big part of the nasty feel - I took it out, and when I push down on it and the "plunger pin" comes up through the "plunger head" it feels super rough (those are probably wrong terms for the parts...I kinda made those names up.) I took it apart and the pin was super rough when I ran my finger nail up and down its length - it was like there was a rough black coating applied to it...so I sanded the pin with 1000 grit sandpaper and it came out real smooth (I'll probably hit it again with Flitz.) When I put the assembly back together again just to see if I had any improvement, I did notice much improvement...but it still feels rough if I put any sideways pressure on the plunger head as I push down on it. I imagine, since the pin is smooth now, that the roughness of the inside of the plunger head is the cause of that. Anybody know how I can get it smooth down inside the plunger head? It's just a little hole - I can't fit my dremel down in there (I'm using a 1/2" sandpaper roll with the 1000 grit super glued to the roll. Maybe run a drill bit down in there? Doesn't have to be perfectly smooth like glass, I don't think... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpa5oh Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 Figured it out - just put some sandpaper around a very small allen wrench, put the allen wrench in to a drill with the chuck grabbing end of the allen wrench with the sandpaper sandwiched in between the allen wrench and the jaws of the drill chuck, and then ran the drill holding onto the plunger head (so that the allen wrench/sandpaper would spin inside the plunger head hole.) Plunger head goes up and down on the plunger pin smoothly now. Onto the next problem area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Also hit the inside of the hole in the frame and the outside/top of the plunger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpa5oh Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 Thanks! I have everything polished (I think) real good - when that trigger bow rides over the plunger head, it's real rough. I bet if I could just get that plunger/trigger bow sliding over the plunger smoothly this trigger would be pretty damn good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b18prl Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 and get a plunger springs kit from Henning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwc Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 and get a plunger springs kit from Henning. Is he still selling these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b18prl Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 I'm sure he does, they come 4 in the pack ranging from 18-22 lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwc Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 I couldn't find them on his website. I may have to call. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b18prl Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 http://www.henningshootsguns.com/shop/triggerparts.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b18prl Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 part number H037 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpa5oh Posted November 30, 2013 Author Share Posted November 30, 2013 What's the purpose of this plunger system, anyhow - just to make the trigger pull feel crappy? :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torogi Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 I know someone who used a spring from a retractable ball point pen=) he said it works just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hal1955 Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 My new trick is to ream out the inside of the the trigger bar lifter spring . I weigh the original first. Then i use a drill bit wrapped in sandpaper to ream out the inside of the spring until it weighs about a third less than the original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwc Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 http://www.henningshootsguns.com/shop/triggerparts.html Thanks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 Yes you need to polish the plunger and the trigger bar. It's the biggest improvement you can make. Also cut 1-2 coils of the plunger spring. Do those two things and you are 70% of the way to a nice trigger. To bad that last 30% takes 4 times as much work and a chunk of money.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpa5oh Posted November 30, 2013 Author Share Posted November 30, 2013 So far I have: - polished the trigger bar (used 400 and 800 grit sandpaper, then Flitz - there were all kinds of machine marks and I got most of them out of there) - polished the entire plunger assembly (used 800 grit sandpaper and Flitz) - went to a 13 lb wolff hammer spring (I cut one down to about the same length as the stock spring and the hammer wouldn't come all the way forward on its own - wasn't going to be setting off any primers like that, so I popped in another at the length wolff ships them at) - put a lighter plunger spring in - stole the retractable ink pen spring idea - polished the stock hammer hooks, backside of the disconnector, and hammer strut (just used Flitz on these - no sandpaper) - polished the inside of the frame where the trigger bar might contact it (used 400 and 800 grit sandpaper, then Flitz) Double action pull is still heavy as hell. Nowhere near as light as my Shadow. Still stacks really bad. I was kinda figuring that with the lighter hammer spring the trigger would be light but with the stacking...I'd have been happy with that. Not sure what's going on here. Single action is fine (it was okay to begin with) except for the 1/4" of pretravel (that I'm going to try to get rid of using a Cajun Gun Works disconnector - I'll have to modify it, I know.) Reset is the same as when I started - about 3/8". The plan is to polish the sear (using Flitz - not going to try cutting it or anything like that,) try to get a Cajun Gun Works disconnector to work, put in Eric Grauffel's extreme hammer and firing pin (unless Henning has one that works with the firing pin block,) and that's about it. None of that is going to lighten that single action pull... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 Don't forget the bottom of the sear cage where the top of the disco rubs. You may also want to try the CGW RP TRS and a CZ sear spring while you're at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 You won't be able to make the reset any better with the stock sear. Also I use 400-> 1000->2000 -> Flitz when I polish parts. 800 is still pretty course. Usually trigger bar/plunger work plus a light hammer spring makes a huge difference in DA pull weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malarkey Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Take a file to the hammer hooks, they rub against the sear lever and if they are not nice and smooth or the sear lever is not smoothed on the touching edge then the trigger can feel rough like it has a sticking point. This will help a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malarkey Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 I said hammer hooks, put they roll more than they hook. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aceinyerface Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) What's the purpose of this plunger system, anyhow - just to make the trigger pull feel crappy? :-) It is a CZ clone, so the plunger replaces the part on the CZ that is essentially a leaf spring made of piano wire with a coil spring. Same thing for the mag spring. Coil springs > Leaf springs The only problem is they added near microscopic parts to the firearm, they are easily lost, relatively $$$ and hard to come by. I have over 10000 rounds fired and a million or so dryfired on a click pen spring. Edited July 1, 2015 by aceinyerface Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yagi Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 I have over 10000 rounds fired and a million or so dryfired on a click pen spring. be careful with the click pen spring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 I have over 10000 rounds fired and a million or so dryfired on a click pen spring. be careful with the click pen spring What's the downside of the clicky pen spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aceinyerface Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 Someone broke one. Some people believe that if it isn't a "gun part" it is unsuitable for use, I don't happen to agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yagi Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 You can use a clicky pen but i would change them more often...say like every 5k.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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