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Dry fire STI


sgrc1

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I wonder which is the best way to cock the hammer for repeated dry-fire?, so far I just pull the hammer with my thumb and dont cycle the gun, a few friends have said to me that that damages the trigger mechanism and that the best way is to cycle the gun each time the hammer falls, another person then mentioned that this will also harm the trigger mechanism and that the correct way is to cycle the gun with the finger on the trigger as in actual live fire, with the rationale that this is the way the gun would cycle under normal live fire conditions.

Which would be then the best way to get the hammer cocked again, while causing the least disadjustment, wear, etc.. to the trigger mechanism.

Thanks,

Sergio

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The best way is this.

*make sure gun is empty first!!*

With the trigger pressed to the rear, cycle the slide.

Press trigger (dryfire)

With trigger still pressed to rear, cycle the slide, then release the trigger.

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The best way is this.

*make sure gun is empty first!!*

With the trigger pressed to the rear, cycle the slide.

Press trigger (dryfire)

With trigger still pressed to rear, cycle the slide, then release the trigger.

This is a urban/1911 myth/legend.

The simple fact is when the slide starts back, comes out of battery, it pushes the disconnector down "disconnecting" the triggger from the sear and the sear rides the hammer while it is being cocked. Just like it does when you pull the hammer back using you thumb or during firing and reloading of a new cartridge from the mag.

Now the way to stop the sear from riding the hammer when it is being cocked is to pull the trigger and then pull/cock the hammer with your thumb to the full back position then let go of the trigger first and then release the hammer.

But in all honesty it really doesn't matter. Do it the way you like best.

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No I didn't.

You suggest pulling the trigger and racking the slide and by pulling the trigger while racking the slide it some how stops the sear from riding the hammer. I pointed out that this is not true because the "disconnector" "disconnects" the trigger from the sear once the slide come out of battery. That is if the gun functions properly.

I say to pull the trigger and then cock the hammer with your thumb to it's full back position then let go of the trigger and then the hammer. Since the slide never moves the disconnector never disconnects the trigger from the sear.

Give it a try.

Pull the trigger all the way back and gently rack the slide slightly, just to the point the hammer would be at the half cock position or slightly farther and never let the trigger go then let the slide go forward back into battery. The hammer will be caught by the sear at the half cock notch. The sear can only do this if it is riding the hammer and is free to engage the half cock notch.

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Not only is Tri correct, ponder this: if it was otherwise where the sear nose was NOT riding the hammer as the slide cycled, you would have a full auto pistol. The sear nose has to catch the hammer at the full cock notch coming forward to cock the gun for the next shot.

Thumb cocking and slide cocking are the same as far as the hammer and sear know.

"a few friends have said to me that that damages the trigger mechanism"

There is a legitimate debate on the possible harm of loading a 1911 from lockback by letting the slide drop with finger OFF trigger, as this is contrary to gun operation. During shooting, each time the gun cycles after firing, your finger is on the trigger (and the disconnector is pushed below the sear) as the slide feeds up a round.

If your finger is off the trigger, the trigger is connected to the sear (or it will be when the slide comes forward far enough to load a round). As you drop the slide, there is a small (but real) possibility of an AD due to inertia trip of the sear by the trigger's inertia as the slide collides with the frame coming forward. The "love tap" from the trigger at that point may not cause an AD, but does slightly separate the sear face and hammer face so each slide drop allows those two surfaces to bounce off each opther which can chip them over time.

That said, slide dropping with trigger held back does violate the basic safety rules and will get you booted by most RO's.

Mr Plaxco recommended loading from slide lockback by manually pulling the hammer downward with one thumb and dropping the slide release with the other thumb which will protect the trigger parts and not require the finger on trigger method.

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I am indeed happy. The 1st post was done in jest, relax guys I have 8 1911s and one of them is a SVI 40SW set up for limited.

Whisper Mode: (but I shoot the damn Glock cause it's so reliable).;)

Then you need a good gunsmith to look at your 1911 style pistols. I have never heard of a 1911 braking the rails off the frame.

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[Administrator hat on]

I'd invite you all to read the Forum Rules.

Please Read the Forum Guidelines.

In particular:

Attitude

Please be polite. Or if not polite, at least respectful. Please – no antagonistic or quarrelsome tones.

Politics

Policy or political discussions of any kind are not welcome. Such as IPSC verses IDPA debates, for example. Including but not limited to: governmental, USPSA, IPSC, IDPA, and especially SVI versus STI customer service debates. Please just don't do it anywhere on the forum.

Contrary to minority opinion - this is not a free speech issue. The issue is - as a privately funded and collectively ran "information exchange," we have found that the emotional nature of political discussions weakens the informative impact of the Forum.

While some good-natured banter between proponents of various shooting platforms is fine...the "my gun is better than your gun dogmatic debates" are discouraged. Especially when they detract (drift) from the topic at hand.

Lets not have another post on this thread that doesn't directly address Sergio's original question:

Which would be then the best way to get the hammer cocked again, while causing the least disadjustment, wear, etc.. to the trigger mechanism?

[Administrator hat off]

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Sorry, if this post is directed to me. Just trying to have a little fun. Since I own 8 1911s I don't find too much wrong with them. After admitting the 1st post was done in "jest" it could have been dropped there.

Again the snipe at the 1911 was done in jest with lots of smiles and winks included in subsequent posts and I' ll include another :) to end this.

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Dry fire.

Cock it whichever way you are comfortable with. If you manage to put signifigant wear on the parts, you've done a heck of a lot of dry firing. That is a good thing.

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With the quality parts available today, I don't worry about wearing them out from dry firing. If it happens, I'll put new ones in and keep going.

I hold the trigger to the rear while cycling the slide so I can feel the trigger reset before the next shot.

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With the quality parts available today, I don't worry about wearing them out from dry firing. If it happens, I'll put new ones in and keep going.

The only thing I would be concearned about would be the proper fitting of the new parts.. since I dont have such an experienced gunsmith around :wacko: .

Anyway, thanks to everybody for the replies, now I know the Why and How it should be done properly.

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