CComeaux Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 Noticed a 625 JM in a gun shop that I frequent when i'm on the road. Really thinking hard on this one. I'm not sure how much competition I would be shooting with this but I still want one. My question is, reliability. What can I do, if anything, that would still allow reliability with various ammo even with some trigger work. I'm not talking about a "competition" trigger but just something to smooth it out and maybe lighten it a little. Excuse the ignorance but i'm completely new to revolvers except for my GP100 that I use a "woods gun". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
21 shooter Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 The action job on mine is really nice, but it is 100% reliable only with Federal primers, which is fine with me. A small inconvenience for the better trigger. However, you can get a really smooth trigger that will be slightly heavier, and it will crush even CCI primers and be suitable for most anything you need if for. I like the 625 a lot but would prefer a smooth face trigger to the serrated one. And I like the GP100. Tough as nails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbcman Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 The easiest thing to do would be to bend the mainspring a bit, put a lighter return spring in and place an extended firing pin on it. Most anyone on this forum can walk you through doing these things on your own if you need help. Very affordable to do. These efforts will get you in the the 7-8lb range which is substantially better than factory and will likely give you reliability with any primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2rideWV Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Personally, I don't like the serrated triggers; I have a 625PC that came with the skinny smooth trigger, and I replaced that with the wide smooth target trigger. Be careful of lightening the trigger pull too much; you might try a reduced power Wolff spring kit in conjunction with some stoning and polishing to get what you want, and - even then - you need to test it to ensure reliability. I think when you get in the seven pound and under territory that Federal primers may be called for. Also, I caution against just working on the springs and not doing an action job; the action needs to be smoother in order to benefit from the reduced spring weights. It isn't that hard to do some of this stuff, and it is well worth the effort. Finally, there are some great revolver guys on this forum to get help from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VIPERONE Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 All good advice. A good plan might be to get both a Reduced Power and a Full Power Ribbed Wolff Hammer Spring. Start with the Reduced Power, and see if it is relyable enough to suit you. The #13 Rebound Spring should work fine. That is the one I normally use. Most who shoot revolvers seriously, and reload use Federal Primers. They set off the easiest in a match revolver with a light hammer fall. The Firing Pen was mentioned above. The NEW S&W Revolvers have frame mounted Firing Pins. The California Approved ones are short. A buddy of mine was having fits with his 686SSR not firing all the time after a trigger job. We figured out it had a short California firing pin in it. It now has a Cylinder & Slide Firing Pin, and works 100%. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CComeaux Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 Thanks all. I ended up getting it the other day. Cant wait to get out and shoot it. I also picked up some Federal primers today. I think this thing is gonna be blast to shoot!! I see what your saying about the trigger. Its already pulled some skin off and all I've done is dry fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Halley Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 Some may say the 625jm is better than a five inch gun. Of course they'd all be crazy folks like me. Be careful about the Wolff mainspring. The ridge in it may be enough to cause you reliability issues. I find that if the strain screw holds the spring 0.135" off of the frame in the center of the threads it is very reliable. Locktite Blue this and the screw that holds the cylinder in the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FWSixgunner Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 I had a competition action job done on my 24-3 back in 1985. It was 10 years & over 5k of CCI 300s before I ever heard of hard/soft primers. It's never failed to go bang. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 I had a competition action job done on my 24-3 back in 1985. It was 10 years & over 5k of CCI 300s before I ever heard of hard/soft primers. It's never failed to go bang. If your gun lights off CCI primers, then it has a fairly heavy action compared to what is state of the art in competition revolver action work today. Randy Lee deserves primary credit for the existence of today's state of the art. He was willing to push the envelope further than anyone had in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Randy Lee deserves primary credit for the existence of today's state of the art. He was willing to push the envelope further than anyone had in the past. +1 Randy showed us what can be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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