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Glock grip reduction and silicon carbide grip


ParkerNash

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I recently took the plunge and did a full grip reduction on my gen 3 G35. I wanted to get rid of the hump on the back strap and the finger grooves. I didn't want to spend $200 at glockworxs for the reduction and the SiC grip. I just jumped right in with a dremel and the 160 grip drum attachment.

Before post-39398-0-97721200-1368827080_thumb.j

After post-39398-0-77311400-1368827328_thumb.j

I took off just enough on the back strap that i didn't need to fill the pocket in the back with epoxy, but you would need to if you wanted to take off more to shrink the actual grip.

Edited by ParkerNash
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I then got to taping the areas i didn't want the silicon carbide grit. I used some of the pictures off block worxs as an example. The silicon carbide was hard to find and i ordered 5lbs of amazon. You can get it in a few different colors and a lot of different grits. I went with black and 70 grit size. I didn't want to go to big cause my hands don't need that much grip. 70 was good because you still get the ruff grip but it doesn't hurt your hands. 5 lbs is way more than you need by the way.

About $7 a pound plus shipping post-39398-0-44688400-1368827898_thumb.j

I put down multiple layers of tape and then cut the shape i wanted with exactoknife

post-39398-0-50208800-1368828027_thumb.j

post-39398-0-17351500-1368828046_thumb.j

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Next came the epoxy silicon carbide grip part. I choose SiC grip cause it is a 3 gun pistol and really didn't like the original grip. I did however experiment with a wire polishing attachment on my dremel and found that you could get the original look and feel after the sanding if you want it to be slick and shiny again. I also chose not to stipple because it is a real pain in the ass and truly is permanent. You might think the SiC is permanent but if you really wanted to you could sand the epoxy off and did it again.

For the epoxy i used devcon grey. Before applying the epoxy i washed the frame with alcohol to remove any oils. I also saved some of the shavings from the frame and mix it into the epoxy to give it similar color and flex. I would suggest getting an epoxy that take awhile to set up that way you have time to work with it and get it right.

post-39398-0-95773000-1368828673_thumb.j

I used a piece of cardboard to get a nice even coat of epoxy. I try to make it thin as possible so the grip didn't change shape.

Once i had everything covered in epoxy i just sprinkled SiC on it. I didn't try to press it on just did the pouring and shaking off a couple times.

Hung it up to dry for 16 hours over night

post-39398-0-49476600-1368828842_thumb.jpost-39398-0-04866100-1368828856_thumb.j

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After dry, I used an exactoknife to remove the tape. Small amount of SiC came off after playing with it for a bit. The grip reduction really changes the whole gun, feels nicer in the hand and naturally points flat. Really like the SiC grip and will do it to any other glock i buy.

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post-39398-0-65990400-1368829203_thumb.j

post-39398-0-73072900-1368829239_thumb.j

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  • 2 months later...

Devcon plastic steel as a rifle bedding compound is great. I dunno bout the plastic epoxy. But I was thinking if one used the actual plastic still and used the SiC that would add weight to the grip and grit for grip at the same time. HMMMMMM

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  • 3 months later...

Quick question on an older thread, but hopefully I can get some responses! I'm sanded smooth, reduced, and ready to go on my grip, but am curious what others did to make clean edges after the epoxy process. Did you razor blade along the tape edges before removing the tape, or did you remove the tape, then clean up the edges? Also, how how do the edges wear & look where the grip meets the bare plastic surface?

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I razored along the tape edges when necessary. Usually, the tape came off very cleanly, there were only 2 or 3 spots for me which required some extra knife work to obtain a clean edge. Both spots were due to heavy application of epoxy in that specific area.

The edges wear well for me in all areas. That's after 4 months of use.

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If the OP happens to read this or anyone else knows, how long does this stuff hold up on the gun. Does the epoxy secure it permanently for the life of the frame or does it over time slowly flake of needing to be reapplied at some point?

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The JB Weld (as mentioned, not the quick set version. Even regular cures rather quickly!) bonds to the plastic very well, and I don't think a primer would be necessary. It looks amazing, and feels even better! Yes and no in the production department...You can't shave or modify the grip shape prior to doing the epoxy & grit, but you can do just the epoxy and grit. See the rulings below from the USPSA rulebook.

21.4 Grips -

For semi-automatic Production guns, grip tape, grip
sleeves, checkering, stippling or other texture may
only be applied in the areas shown in appendix E4.
Glue and grit is considered the same as stippling.
Appendix E4 -
Checkering, stippling, and/or tape may only be applied to the areas illustrated by
the dashed line boundaries which include the frontstrap and backstrap. Grip Tape
cannot be applied to any part of the slide, trigger, trigger guard, or any lever or
button. Grip Tape or Grip Sleeves cannot disengage a grip safety.
grip.jpg
Edited by zachvu
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