mjohn Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 ^^^^^^^^^^ Thanks for the offer to post some pics. I am just getting ready to do some 40 relaoding over the weekend and these pics will help greatly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebadeye Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 never had a problem with federal in 9, 40, 45, 38, or 357 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbcaster45 Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 Actually I prefer Federal 9mm brass because it has less taper inside and thinner case walls. My Glock 17L and XDM 5.25 shoot plated bullets better when they measure .357 (Bullet Works 147 gr. Plated RN). Too much case bulge with other brands. The 17L has a LW barrel and the XDM 5.25 is factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leas327 Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 Here are some pics of Federal 40 brass I have. I never knew about the two dots until this thread. But you can see the newer headstamp with the dots in the pics and how it doesn't have the indentation or counterbore in the bottom of the case. The only problems I have had are with the nickel cases(well besides that GD crimped primer stuff). The other headstamped brass was in the pile that was about to be reloaded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjohn Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Thanks for the education. Very informative. I have the FC, NT and the FEDERAL. I will now have to do a resort and scrap all the FC. Was not aware of the problem. Thanks for the timely post with the pics that are clear and easy to see your point! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierra77mk Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 I have experienced federal as being thicker in .40 S&W. When loading a 3-4 hundred frangible bullets in mixed brass, a few bullets broke at the case mouth. All of those were FEDERAL cases. I surmised that when taper crimping the thicker federal brass put too much pressure on the bullet and cracked it. Thinking about it now I suppose the federals could have been a touch longer and caused the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glc Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Thanks for the education. Very informative. I have the FC, NT and the FEDERAL. I will now have to do a resort and scrap all the FC. Was not aware of the problem. Thanks for the timely post with the pics that are clear and easy to see your point! You don't want the NT either,unless you don't mind fooling with a crimped primer pocket. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjohn Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 ^^^^^^^^^ Yep. My post was not clear and I have already discarded the NT. I meant to say that I now have to resort the FC and FEDERAL. The scrap bucket is getting heavy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WatchmanUSA Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 I have asked ATK (Federal) this question because I had a ton of brass marked FC 08, "FC 08 Brass Question - Is it Safe to Reload in .40 S&W?". Their response: The information you’re getting on the internet is incorrect. .40 brass head stamped FC08 is perfectly safe to shoot and reload. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirty whiteboy Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 I won't use the old federal brass in 40. It is marked "F C". same here, esp the nickle plated stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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