Newbie Reloader Asks "What's a good Powder for .357 pistols?&#

[salemsm]

First off, I am a Reloading Newbie trying to accumulate my Reloading stash in the midst of shortages everywhere. On backorder, I have

2K of BERRY'S CAST BULLETS 38CAL 158GR SWC (for both .357 mag/.38 spl)

1K of Federal Magnum Small Pistol Primers (for .357 mag)

1K of Federal Small Pistol Primers (for .38 spl)

In searching the wastelands of the internet to find Power, I found some that I could actually order ... and it's called Clays from Hodgdon.

In doing some research, I found out that this is one of the faster burn-rate powders on the market and therefore not forgiving to the reloading newcomer.

I have heard that for newbies, better to start with 231, No. 5 or Power Pistol.

I have also heard that some bullet/powder/caliber combinations work better than others. I've got the bullet (158GR SWC) and the caliber (.38 spl/.357 mag). What would be recommendations for mid/slow burning powder for a newbie?

[prebancolt]

2400

[jkrispies]

H-110 works very well for me in the .357 mag using magnum primers and 158gr JHP's. I'm guessing your "cast" bullets mean they're lead and not jacketed, though. Generally speaking, I don't like to use lead bullets above 1000 fps due to leading of the barrel. You can still do it, just means more cleaning, which I'm averse to.........

As for .38spl, I don't have a lot to offer mainly because my revolver shoots everything pretty well, especially with the lighter .38spl loads, so I tend to load the .38spl's with whatever I have extra and then plink with it... it's usually powders I was experimenting with and ended up not liking too much. Kind of my garbage disposal round, I guess! Just loaded a bunch of +p loads with 2400 that was taking up space in my bench, so I'll see how that goes.

Clays is a great powder for .45acp, though, so it might work okay for .38spl.

[salemsm]

Thanks for all of the responses! 1st thing I bought prior to any bullet/primer purchase was Lyman's 49th addition. Obviously it doesn't have all bullet/power combos but I'm assuming that the powder companies have more in-depth data?

Bottom line: As a beginner, it is better to start out with a slower-burning powder as this will take more grains to achieve the same "omph". More powder means smaller chance to double-fill.

Am I looking at this correctly?

[GigG]

Bottom line: As a beginner, it is better to start out with a slower-burning powder as this will take more grains to achieve the same "omph". More powder means smaller chance to double-fill.

Am I looking at this correctly?

Not really especially if you are loading hotter loads. With less empty space in the case you get higher pressure. There are better ways to make sure you don't get a double charge.

[98sr20ve]

Pistol is a Autoloader.

Revolver is well....A revolver.

Only one person makes a Pistol for .357. Connan or some such thing.

[prebancolt]

Pistol is a Autoloader.

Revolver is well....A revolver.

Only one person makes a Pistol for .357. Connan or some such thing.

And Don't Forget The Desert Eagle, Which Runs Great With 2400 Under 158 Gr Jacketed Bullets

[frag316]

*shrugs* I'd probably go with something like Longshot or Titegroup or Unique. They're versatile powders and fairly forgiving. Use Lee load data to start, because it's extremely conservative.

[Youngeyes]

The slow powders run great for magnum loads. Slow burn means big bang. You also get cleaner burn with H110. You are also less likely to get primer blowby, as the primer seals better with a proper burning powder. As far as being a newbie, you only have to make sure that you are being safe and following directions. No powder is anymore dangerous than any other powder if used correctly. Have fun with reloading.

[jkrispies]

The slow powders run great for magnum loads. Slow burn means big bang. You also get cleaner burn with H110. You are also less likely to get primer blowby, as the primer seals better with a proper burning powder. As far as being a newbie, you only have to make sure that you are being safe and following directions. No powder is anymore dangerous than any other powder if used correctly. Have fun with reloading.

+1 Just follow the recipes (always double check the recommended loads against a seperate publisher) and pay attention to safety. As long as the powder is listed by a reputable publisher and it's hitting the published velocity you're looking for, don't worry so much about how fast or slow the burn rate is.

[salemsm]

The slow powders run great for magnum loads. Slow burn means big bang. You also get cleaner burn with H110. You are also less likely to get primer blowby, as the primer seals better with a proper burning powder. As far as being a newbie, you only have to make sure that you are being safe and following directions. No powder is anymore dangerous than any other powder if used correctly. Have fun with reloading.

"To be sure of hitting the target, shoot first and call whatever you hit the target."

Youngeyes: Love your signature line! Are you the author?

[Azoneonly]

I worked up a load using WW 296 and a Hornady 158 grain XTP bullet. Crono's right up there and is super accurate in my S&W 6" 686. Also less powder can increase pressure very high as has happened with some of the very light cowboy loads. Some of these guys mix Cream of Wheat to fill the case but I would not recommend it. So I recommend using slow powders for magnums pistols such as 296, H110 etc.