kamikaze1a Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 (edited) I have been practicing with my SV and hope to run it in L10. Previous owner modified the slide stop to not lock open after last shot but I prefer that it does. A couple of questions about the slide stop. Can a 1911 slide stop lever be used to replace the SV (40) lever? I installed a 1911 stop lever and it does not lock back after the last shot but does when cycling by hand. The stop is barely catching the notch and the slide will drop if I drop the mag. I replaced the mag springs and followers, same thing, will not lock back after last shot. The slide stop lever moves freely but it seems that the plunger is tight and keeping the slide stop lever from moving freely. With the slide removed, slide stop installed and empty mag inserted, if I pushed down on the slide stop lever, it does return freely and I can feel the plunger dragging on the face of the stop lever. Should I dress the face of the lever? Could it be the mag release allowing the mag to sit too low? Edited April 18, 2013 by kamikaze1a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forgetful Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 What kind of followers? I could only get lock back with STI followers. Grams either locked back with one still in the mag or if I filed them more they'd work properly for a week then the plastic broke and didn't lock back at all. To start, make sure you have a unmodified sti follower and a unmodified release. Play with plunger strength or geometry if need be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted April 20, 2013 Author Share Posted April 20, 2013 STI springs and followers...when I tried it with the slide off, I am not surprised that that the slide does not lock back. The stop lever's travel seems to be restricted by the drag of plunger. Do you know if 1911 and 2011 slide stop the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knedrgr Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Yes, the slide stop is the same for both 1911 or 2011. You can polish the face of the slide stop AND the plunger's pin end with some 600 grit sand paper. Also look to see if the slide stop pin is binding with the barrel's lower lug and link, when its link down. You can check this with the barrel removed and insert the slide stop in the link, and move it back and forth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted April 20, 2013 Author Share Posted April 20, 2013 Yes, the slide stop is the same for both 1911 or 2011. You can polish the face of the slide stop AND the plunger's pin end with some 600 grit sand paper. Also look to see if the slide stop pin is binding with the barrel's lower lug and link, when its link down. You can check this with the barrel removed and insert the slide stop in the link, and move it back and forth. Thanks for the info! As for dressing the lever, I did polish the pin part but not tried the face yet. The lever seems to rotate freely if not engaging the plunger and when I checked the link to pin fit, it seemed to be free. After further inspection, I am starting to wonder if the mag release is not holding the mags high enough so followers not able to actuate the lever. If I push the mags up further, the lever pops up higher. I am not sure how that would affect feeding but ordered a replacement mag release... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 (edited) Check last few years Front Sight Articles, there was a real good one on this by Bob Lonigran I think. Edited April 20, 2013 by pskys2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 Check last few years Front Sight Articles, there was a real good one on this by Bob Lonigran I think. I did a search for that article but could not find it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 (edited) I tried polishing the stop lever's pin and the face the plunger rides and no resolution. I bought another 1911 stop lever and same result. So much resistance that the empty mag can't push up the stop lever. I finally removed the stop lever from my Tripp 2011 and installed in on the SV and got the same tight stop lever and empty mag can't push up the lever. The stop lever pin turns freely in the barrel link and turns freely when inserted in the frame but is tight if fully installed and engaging the plunger and is hard to get full travel. With the barrel/slide installed and the stop lever PARTIALLY inserted (not engaging the plunger), barrel/slide in battery, there is a good amount of resistance when I manipulate the lever. With the barrel/slide installed and the stop pin installed fully, barrel/slide in battery, it takes way more than normal to manipulate the lever. If I want to lock the slide back, I have to use a great deal of force to move the lever up and then I can not release the slide with my strong hand thumb in the conventional manner and can not with my weak hand thumb either. So it seems that the barrel or link, while in battery is causing some resistance and the plunger riding the stop lever is adding even more. Edited April 25, 2013 by kamikaze1a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eliminator Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Is the slide stop dragging on the slide? I put a "drop in" in my single stack and it required significant filing on the face, so it goes in deeper. Also, a touch on the outside edge of the internal bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911Prof Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Check last few years Front Sight Articles, there was a real good one on this by Bob Lonigran I think. I did a search for that article but could not find it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911Prof Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Check last few years Front Sight Articles, there was a real good one on this by Bob Lonigran I think. I did a search for that article but could not find it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 I don't think it is the slide contacting the stop because with the stop installed part way, with the barrel in battery and lever not contacting the frame, it takes too much effort to move the lever. I believe the problem is that the link or barrel is causing excessive drag on the stop lever pin AND the plunger is applying too much pressure on the lever. Is there a method to "tune" the barrel or link? Could the barrel or link be binding with the stop pin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParaGunner Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 (edited) Try cutting a coil off your plunger spring. I wouldn't mess with your barrel fit. Edited April 25, 2013 by Roy Hess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knedrgr Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 sounds like the barrel feet weren't properly cut for the slide stop. A little hard to believe on a SV gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 sounds like the barrel feet weren't properly cut for the slide stop. A little hard to believe on a SV gun. That's what I was thinking. It seems like the link is trapping the stop pin when the barrel is in battery. It was used so not sure what was done prior. How would I determine if that is the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knedrgr Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 Call SV, they will make it right. One of the best customer service in the business. You'll have to look at the feet to see if there are huge wear marks, gouges, etc. these are different from contact marks, which are normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 I will take a look tonight....thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 I took a closer look at the barrel where the stop pin would ride. I does show contact but not heavy so I am back to the plunger. I will polish the end of the plunger and check to see if the plunger movement is good. Question, when I compared the SV to the Tripp, I noticed the plunger is situated closer to the rails on the SV. Could the stop lever need to be contoured to the plunger position? Also realized that the stop will not disengage by slingshot method possibly because of the tight lever or the forward edge of the lever needs contouring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrickxx Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 The article your looking for is here http://www.brazoscustom.com/Home.htm then under the magazine articles tab and then select slide lock back or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 Thanks. The article discusses the virtues of not locking back after last shot. I actually prefer that my slide locks back after last shot because we shoot 3-gun and we need to ditch the pistol slide locked back. Planning my reloads and shooting dry saves me a second or more over manually locking back especially with a tight slide stop lever... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knedrgr Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Is the slide stop Cerakote or something similar? Or just blued or stainless? Try polishing the areas that are making contact with the lug's feet. I had my 2011 Cerakoted and it tightened up slightly. Some light polishing fixed the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knedrgr Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Or try to install a longer barrel link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 Last night, I removed the plunger and it looks fine but polished the tip just be sure. Concerned about cutting the spring as that would reduce the safety lever's plunger tension too? Installed the slide/barrel and stop without the plunger. It seems to work pretty well like that and mag spring able to push up the lever and locks the slide back much more securely but not fully to the top of the notch but much better. Still won't disengage by pulling back on the slide so contoured the sharp edge from the front of the stop and now it disengages. I think I will try relieving the stop lever where the plunger rides. It looks like the angle of that face causes and increasing pressure with upward travel. Do you think relieving that area might help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParaGunner Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Sounds like your only option is to remove material from the face of the slide stop that touches the plunger. Remove a small amount and polish it good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knedrgr Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 Think of it like this... Screw with the cheaper part...clip a coil off the plunger spring. You can buy a rebuild kit for $15. Screw up a slide stop and you're looking at $50 for a quality one. You can take some 600 grit and polish the face that engage the plunger to slick it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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