dtt255 Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 Ok just got everything all setup on the 650 press but have an OAL question. The reloading book, Lyman, I am using says the OAL should be 1.090 on my 9mm with 115 gram JHP. No matter what I do, I can get it close to that OAL but not exactly at it. sometimes a bit shorter, sometimes a bit longer. I went and measured the critical defenses JHP's that I carry everyday and they are close to 1.12 OAL. The rounds I started making ALL fit into the 9mm case gauges without issues at all. Not tight and slid right out if I turn it upside down. Should I worry about this or keep trying to get it down to the exact number? TIA Dtt255 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 OAL is generally determined by your mag and the barrel of your gun. Your OAL may vary depending on the bullet weight and profile, but a few thousandths of an inch is not a big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 If you use the same headstamp brass and fill the plate with casings before checking this will be about as close as you can get to the same oal each round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gng4life Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 There is going to be some variance, it all depends on your brass, reloading setup, technique, etc. If you do a search on here, there are several posts that talk about that most people report having as much as +/- .007. This is especially true with range/misc brass. Also, as a general rule, if you shorten the OAL, that will increase pressure - you may need to back off the powder if you do this. Most say that they get better results (me included) with loading as long as the mag and chamber will support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtt255 Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Ok sounds good. I have a redding competition seating die, but haven't installed it yet as I was just doing range ammo. Thanks for the answers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZ85Combat Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 What OAL does your gun need? You did the push test right? what gun are you going to use your re-loads in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieHunter Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 There are a few things you can do to make this minimal on a Dillon 650; I have managed to keep my variation down to +/- .002 on most brass. The biggest thing is to keep your powder funnel/expander die set as shallow as possible (I have mine set to give absolutely no bell what-so-ever). When you get longer brass, even a few thousandths longer, it will cause your OAL to be off that much. You can tell which ones will be off, because if all of your brass have no bell, then all of a sudden you get one that is belled - you know it is so long that it pushed up onto the expander farther and caused more resistance on the head. I've tested and confirmed this many times. Additionally, make your your shell plate bolt is as tight as possible and the shell plate does not wobble. Other things to check, make sure your full-size die does not completely touch the shell plate causing it to flex or wobble as well... I adjust it so it touches, then back off just a hair - probably around .001-.002 of an inch. That should get you very consistent results. The variables you can't control are variable bullet o-give profiles, if you're seating die seats from the o-give. And finally, one other things I found that help to reduce OAL variation quite a bit on pistol brass, next to the exander adjustment, is lube.... I know it's not "required" on carbide dies and everyone will point that out, but it dramatically reduces the drag on the sizing die and allows it be resized without varying force on the head. It's also easier on the brass and doesn't take much. Hope that helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtt255 Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 What OAL does your gun need? You did the push test right? what gun are you going to use your re-loads in? The weapon is a p239 . I have tested the final product in my barrel and it fits fine and slides out. It also fits into my mag fine. I don't know what a push test is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtt255 Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 (edited) There are a few things you can do to make this minimal on a Dillon 650; I have managed to keep my variation down to +/- .002 on most brass. The biggest thing is to keep your powder funnel/expander die set as shallow as possible (I have mine set to give absolutely no bell what-so-ever). When you get longer brass, even a few thousandths longer, it will cause your OAL to be off that much. You can tell which ones will be off, because if all of your brass have no bell, then all of a sudden you get one that is belled - you know it is so long that it pushed up onto the expander farther and caused more resistance on the head. I've tested and confirmed this many times. Additionally, make your your shell plate bolt is as tight as possible and the shell plate does not wobble. Other things to check, make sure your full-size die does not completely touch the shell plate causing it to flex or wobble as well... I adjust it so it touches, then back off just a hair - probably around .001-.002 of an inch. That should get you very consistent results. The variables you can't control are variable bullet o-give profiles, if you're seating die seats from the o-give. And finally, one other things I found that help to reduce OAL variation quite a bit on pistol brass, next to the exander adjustment, is lube.... I know it's not "required" on carbide dies and everyone will point that out, but it dramatically reduces the drag on the sizing die and allows it be resized without varying force on the head. It's also easier on the brass and doesn't take much. Hope that helps! Thanks for this. I have tried with no bell at all and I tend to scrape the copper off more often then not when seating. So I have kept a minimal bell to try and avoid that. Maybe I'll get better with time ? Lol Edited March 17, 2013 by dtt255 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieHunter Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Are you using true jacketed or plated? I've never shaved copper on any FMJ/HP bullet with no belling. I can see that with plated bullets, as they are pretty soft, and you might need a little bell for those. I use both Precision Delta and Montana Gold bullets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtt255 Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 (edited) Are you using true jacketed or plated? I've never shaved copper on any FMJ/HP bullet with no belling. I can see that with plated bullets, as they are pretty soft, and you might need a little bell for those. I use both Precision Delta and Montana Gold bullets. Sorry I rechecked..they are plated. They are rainier 115 JHP. BTW what is a 'push test'? Edited March 17, 2013 by dtt255 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZ85Combat Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 the push test will show you what OAL you should load to for that gun, each gun will have it's own OAL. Look at this post it will show you how to do the push test. http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=34225.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtt255 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 the push test will show you what OAL you should load to for that gun, each gun will have it's own OAL. Look at this post it will show you how to do the push test. http://www.czfirearm...p?topic=34225.0 Awesome....this is a good thing to know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Sort of an involved "plunk" test, which just means drop a loaded cartridge into your chamber - barrel out of gun - and it should end up with the base of the cartridge flush with the barrel hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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