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Dillion 500 Tumbler


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That fanwheel thing underneath came off.

I figured out that it has a set screw, it didn't vibrate much so I turned the fanwheel over and it vibrated hardly at all.

I looked at a probably 10 year older model that looked like it had a brass "squeeze-it" to crimp the fanwheel in place.

I'd appreciate any insight or even a smart-aleck remark or two.

tomB

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That's what I was trying to decide: fried motor or do I just need to affix the fan thing more securely.

I suppose the proper thing to do would be to order a new one and send the old one back for repair.

Spares and USPSA buddies will get us through.

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Thank you for your generous offer, Mr. Aiki.

I believe I have about five thousand pieces I just bought that happened to come already cleaned. That should get me through for awhile.

See you at South Central Sunday.

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Twix if all it is is the fan/counterweight, just rough up the shaft with a file and glue 'er back on with a $3 pack of JB Weld. The fan falling off has nothing to do with the motor being worn out.

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I put the flywheel back on, and it vibrated but not like it should/did before. So I flipped the flywheel over and it din't really vibrate at all.

Will this type of motor run at a lower capacity? I was thinking that if it goes out it wouldn't run at all.

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Try installing the fan/counterweight in this manner:

The bottom of the fan/counterweight should be 1/4" from the end of the shaft.

The blades have a slight curve to their shape. Correctly mounted, the convex side is down, and the concave side is facing the motor. It is held onto the shaft by a set screw. No adhesive is necessary.

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Dillion, that's what I did. I tried putting the flywheel on both ways, about a 1/4 inch from the end. One way it vibrated much more weakly than before, the other barely at all. So is my motor fried?

Especially for Eric, I got the 1/4" distance from looking at 3QT's old brass crimped on model. Mine has the set screw I learned, sorry for any confusion.

TomB

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Tom,

My 500 doesn't shake/rattle much at all when empty. What I experienced was during a run full of brass/media. You could hear the motor periodically slow down then speed back up - the sure sign of an impending bushing failure. The motor also was VERY hot.

The problem with the 500's is that they appear to use bushings instead of bearings as the 2000 does. The bushings just don't hold up for heavy duty use. I think the moral is: buy the CV2000 if you're buying a tumbler for the long haul - even if the volume of the brass you clean doesn't merit the size.

That said, $27.95 really is a bargain for a new motor. They're practically impossible to source, even from the manufacturer. If your motor is getting hot (I'm talking too hot to touch), you should send it in. The motor has no thermal protection that I can see, and you run the risk of tumbler meltdown.

If the Brass Weasel 9000 doesn't pan out over the long haul, I'm going to sell my 500 and buy a 2000 (like I should have to begin with).

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I have a CV-500 and the motor burnt out after two years of use. But those two years actually boil down to 2 days per month for a few hours. So my CV-500 lasted 24 days @ 4 hours per day so let call it 100 hours of use. I'm in the process of waiting for a replacement motor from Dillon.

I think the motor should either have over heating protection of some kind or be made more durable. I gave my 15 year old Lyman 1200 to one of our Junior shooters so currently with out any type of case cleaner.

Good to Dillon monitors this board. They have many great products.

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Both the large and small case cleaner motors have built in thermal shutoffs. Once they do shut off, the motor has to cool completely before it will start up again. Operating a case cleaner on a carpeted surface is the most common cause for motor failure, as the carpeting inhibits air flow, and insulates the underside of the cleaner.

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Both the large and small case cleaner motors have built in thermal shutoffs. Once they do shut off, the motor has to cool completely before it will start up again. Operating a case cleaner on a carpeted surface is the most common cause for motor failure, as the carpeting inhibits air flow, and insulates the underside of the cleaner.

I stand corrected. I couldn't see the device from underneath the tumbler and simply assumed it didn't exist. Oops.

My CV-500 was bought new and never run on carpet - always on the bench or on a bare concrete floor. My tumbler *might* have had 150 hours runtime on it - on the outside. I just don't think there's any way those oil-lite bushings (I'm pretty sure that's what they are) can hold up to the vibration over the long haul like a good bearing does.

TheCV-500 is probably a good choice for someone who's buying an AT-500 and will never load much volume. Any action pistol shooter should automatically consider the 2000 to be the only game in town.

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I agree, so I always ran mine on concrete basement floor. Still seems like a short life span for an electric motor. Look forword for its replacement so I can clean cases and reload again.

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