Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

New rifle problems


Heshin

Recommended Posts

I don't think an Adjustable gas block is going to help and might make it worse.

Do you have any powder that burns slower than H335?

One of my slow twist uppers w 5C rifling would not cycle with a burn rate faster than N135 ish w 50-55 grn bullets.

Slower powder it ran fine. Faster powder single shot.

I'm sure you want to run with fact ammo but until the upper is fully sorted out a slower powder should make sure it will fully cycle.

You should b OK running motor oil as long as it stays lightweight and you're not adding an additive to make it sticky.

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have noticed the CLP "cooking off" as well. After a quick 30rd stage the bolt was almost dry.

I will have to look into othe powders, but h335 is pretty common and should cycle the gun

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I doubt this is an oil issue lol. I do think it's interesting how many different opinions there are on oils and lubes, everyone had something they swear by. I've run CLP in my AR's for years with no problems whatsoever. If you put enough on you should have no problem shooting an entire match day without needing to re-apply. I also run Mobil synthetic in a 2011 with great results. Seems like whatever you use just use alot of it and you will have less problems, oil is cheap!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I shoot more rounds in a one day MG shoot than a lifetime worth of 3-gun matches. With CLP, if it "burns off" in a few hundred rounds, just hose some more in and keep shooting. With motor oil or straight lube with no "C", when the gun stops running I have take the it apart and get out the brake cleaner to clean the gunked up oil out of the gun... CPL sucks as a lube, but not as much as motor oil sucks as a cleaner!

It was just a suggestion to try the correct lube since I know for a fact that motor oil with some carbon fouling can slow down a severly overgassed M16 bolt enough to make it stop working, so it is probably not a good idea in a gun that seems to be undergassed in the first place.

The OP's fundamental issue is probably a leaky gas block, or a crooked buffer tube or some other fundamental defect, but using the wrong oil doesn't help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The first thing to look at with an AR that won't run is gas. Think gas, gas, gas. I had virtually the exact same symptoms, with a similar setup, that were caused by a leaky gas block (a Kies). I don't think an adjustable gas block will help in your case. In fact, it may confound finding your problem. For whatever it is worth, my rifle will run virtually all loads with a full weight M16 carrier and H buffer now that it is fully broken in, and that is with the .093 gas port that a 18" Nordic barrel ships with.

Have you attempted to run the rifle with 5.56 pressure loads? Have you tried running a touch slower powder? With the leaky gas block, my rifle would run 100% with XM193 and hotter 75 gr loads (varget), but not lock back on milder loads like PMC Bronze or 55 gr/H335 reloads. I know it is a crutch, but why not try some slower powder? Anything like Varget will probably get it running 100%.

On the lube front - 5w30 does not have the best detergent properties. ATF or a ATF/5w30 mix is better IMO. I have done testing in cold weather (below 0F) and lights loads and straight 5w30 starts to get pretty gooey unless you are slopping fresh stuff on frequently. ATF also has a very high detergent content compared to motor oil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...