vincent Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 I got a 650 this year and ordered it with 40 S&W and 45 ACP setups all at once, everything new. My problem is that on both the 40 SW and 45 shell plates the "lips" in the shell plate "station" that hold the case rim are chipping away. This eventually allows the case to shift in the shell plate station and even pop out which usually causes problems in the priming station and with ejection of finished rounds. It happened to the 40 shellplate within 3k rounds and the 45 shell plate within 6k rounds. The 40 SW shell plate did it first and the problem affected several stations. A call to Dillon put a new one in my hand in about a week. So far he new one has not had the same problem. However as mentioned now the 45 shell plate is doing the same thing, but for now only in one station. Do you think Dillon could have gotten a bad batch of shell plates? I just can't see how they would break so quickly? The metal that is chipping off looks like die cast zinc alloy - really grainy leaving a rough surface. The press runs fine and the ammo is fine. Can you think of something I have misadjusted that could cause this issue? When I described it to Dillon they didn't suggest anything. Do you think I should just call Dillon again for another replacement? I just thought I'd run it by the experts before I call. If it's something I'm doing wrong I want to get it fixed. Thanks, -Vincent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Do you lube your cases? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincent Posted August 20, 2004 Author Share Posted August 20, 2004 No, I've never used case lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeeper Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Vincent, I remembered a post about this over on 1911forum.com Here it is: http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php...ighlight=dillon Dillon tech said in that post that it is a bad heat treat and to call for replacements. Also use hornady one shot and reloading will be so much smoother you wont believe it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Norman Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 First, lube your cases. I use Hot Shot spray, but mink oil or Dillion lube both work well. Second, The shell plates are most likely sintered metal, I would doubt they are die-cast. if they are sintered, it is possible that the mix is wrong or that the heating was not correct. Third, lube your cases. you will greatly reduce your workload. I can run unlubed cases in carbide dies, but why strain? I have a friend that has a commercial resizing machine, even after he runs my cases through it, i still find lubed is easier. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dunn Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Thread drift, recently I have been trying RCBS case slick, I like it better than One Shot so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincent Posted August 20, 2004 Author Share Posted August 20, 2004 I understand that the part is not die case zinc alloy, I was just saying that's what the damage looks like. If you ever broke Matchbox cars or cheap cap guns when you were a kid you know what I'm talking about. The way the metal is crumbling I think it is a hardening problem, but I wanted to check. From the 1911forum post it ooks like I'm not the only one. I just don't buy the answer that a brass case is causing the kind of damage I'm seeing (assuming the steel part is properly made). I think I'll call Dillon and try to get a replacement. If anyone can think of anything else to check on the press I'm all ears. I don't want to be "the destroyer of shell plates"! As I mentioned I've never used case lube. I didn't think you used case lube on straight walled pistol cases and carbide dies, but I'm willing to give it a try. What is the procedure? Do you have to be careful not to get it inside the case? Do you have to re-tumble afterwards to get the lube off before shooting the rounds? Thanks again, -Vincent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Vincent, There is a lot of information here about using case lube. I use Hornady One Shot now, and I'm very happy with it. Basically, I just throw some brass in a cardboard box. After spreading the brass out evenly on their side, I give them a little spritz. It doesn't take much. Also, when I'm done loading, I forget about the lube- just leave it on the case. I've never had a problem. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincent Posted August 20, 2004 Author Share Posted August 20, 2004 Used Search and found the answers to my questions. Some day I'll learn. Looks like I need some aerosol Hornady One Shot and a plastic bin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Second, The shell plates are most likely sintered metal, I would doubt they are die-cast. if they are sintered, it is possible that the mix is wrong or that the heating was not correct. I don't think so. I'm pretty sure those shell plates get milled out of bar stock. Heat treating and annealing is still the issue, but none of my shellplateslook cast or molded. Lee might lay that kind of Boogie Woogie on you, but not Dillon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeeper Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Used Search and found the answers to my questions. Some day I'll learn. Looks like I need some aerosol Hornady One Shot and a plastic bin. Definately get the aeresol. The pump one isnt as good. Let it dry for like a minute before you put them in the press. Otherwise it isnt slick. It also doesnt really last lubed for more than about 12 hours. Plastic shoebox and aeresol spray is the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 The shellplates are heat treated, machined from steel bar stock. Sounds like you either have one that was over heat treated, or else a die could be down too far, and banging into the shellplate. Another possiblility is that someone has short-stroked the handle, and run the decap pin into the edge of the shellplate. Any small, circular marks on the shellplate, that could be in line with the decap pin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincent Posted August 21, 2004 Author Share Posted August 21, 2004 I'm the only one that uses the press and it is not being short stroked. If I slammed the decapping pin into the shell plate I would know it for sure. I looked at the dies and it doesn't appear that they could be hitting in the area being damaged. The powder funnel is the only thing that could touch that area of the shellplate but there is always a cartridge in between the funnel and the shellplate so I don't see how that would happen. Here are some pictures of the issue. First on the .45 shellplate a pic of normal shell plate station "lips" Here is a pic of a damaged station Here is a pic of a station from the bad .40 shellplate that is lightly damaged Here is another .40 station that has more damage like the one on the .45 shell plate If these pictures help diagnose the problem I'm still open to suggestions on adjustments to the press. To me the grainy/porous look of the chipped areas seem to point to a metal problem, but I'm certainly not an expert. Thanks, -Vincent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAW Posted August 23, 2004 Share Posted August 23, 2004 I had a 40 S&W shell plate on a 650 chip after about 500 rounds. Could not figure out what was the problem until I tore the thing apart. Called and I had a new shell plate in two days at no charge. As for the case lube. I have loaded thousands of rounds of 38 special and 45acp on both a 550 and 650 without ever using case lube and I have not had a single problem. I do not see why the 40 S&W should be any different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.40AET Posted August 23, 2004 Share Posted August 23, 2004 I have loaded thousands of rounds of 38 special and 45acp on both a 550 and 650 without ever using case lube and I have not had a single problem. Yeah, me too. It's not a problem, it's just a better way to go. The case lube makest the operation of the press much smooter. It is easier on the operator and speeds up the process. K-Y has been around for ever too. You don't need it, but it helps make some things a little better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincent Posted August 27, 2004 Author Share Posted August 27, 2004 As expected Dillon happily replaced the shellplate under warranty. Dillon is really a first rate company! Hopefully it was just a bad shellplate and there isn't something setup wrong on my press. I have double checked everything but with less than a year of reloading under my belt I just don't know. Time will tell. Thanks for all the suggestions, -Vincent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dream Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 I have had shell plate problems also, Its funny how brass can chip steel. one thing you might want to do is take the tool head off and watch the brass move around with the shell plate, when I tried this I saw how the wire was not hitting the brass at the right angle. A pair of needle nose and about 5 mins later bingo press fixed.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
primersinmyshoe Posted August 28, 2004 Share Posted August 28, 2004 I have had shell plate problems also,Its funny how brass can chip steel. one thing you might want to do is take the tool head off and watch the brass move around with the shell plate, when I tried this I saw how the wire was not hitting the brass at the right angle. A pair of needle nose and about 5 mins later bingo press fixed.. Dream, I just got my 650 and have it set up. Can you tell me what to watch for when operating the shell holder (without the tool head)? Mine is set up for 45acp. I've been using Lee Pro 1000's, and am just now getting into the Dillon. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now