wes777 Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 if i was going to try the needle thrust bearing, i would sandwich it between the shell plate and washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911pilot Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 I went back to no thrust bearing at my last cleaning since the shellplate lockup thing got kind of annoying. I greased the heck out of everything in all the right places with slide glide when i put it back together and tweaked the shellplate bolt just right and it runs perfectly now. I need to get around to taking some pics because I went nuts with some of the LED strip that Dan uses and lit it up like crazy from multiple angles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC49ae Posted December 18, 2012 Share Posted December 18, 2012 The biggest problem, that i have read about, with the needle thrust bearings is that they do not have the same OD, causing the ejector to ride high and sometimes lock up the shell plate. Haven't had any problems with any of mine and don't see how having the wire further from the shell plate, even though there is not much difference at the OD of the shell plate, would lock it up. In any case here is another place where you can get all sorts of thrust bearings and the above sintered bronze washers. http://qbcbearings.c...her_SL_SB_I.htm Thanks for the link above for the bronze washers. I was running the double washer and bearing setup, which worked great for anything larger than 9mm. Once I switched to the 9mm and smaller cases, the shellplate would lock up as the 9mm cases would sort of tip over under the ejector wire while still in the shell plate. I tried tweaking the wire and screwed it up enough to where it wouldn't stay locked in place. Now I'm onto the the 0.75" OD thrust washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morrow Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 All you need to do is bend the wire downward where it passes the OD of the washer/bearing. I've loaded thousands and thousands of rounds since doing that with no lockup. The wire is thick and can be a little tough to bend but it's not a big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxerglocker Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 All you need to do is bend the wire downward where it passes the OD of the washer/bearing. I've loaded thousands and thousands of rounds since doing that with no lockup. The wire is thick and can be a little tough to bend but it's not a big deal. I've done the same and had issues in the beginning, but once tweaked has been running pretty much flawlessly for 10s of thouisands of rounds of 9mm and .223 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike in CT Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Great thread here. I also have made purchases from InlineFrabrication and have to say all items are top notch. I have a light kit and roller handle for the 650 on order now. Had I seen his strong mount I would have gone that way but saw it after I ordered the Dillon. I have just switched from a Hornady to the 650 and have been looking for the tweaks needed and this thread is a great help. I have my order set for Uniquetek and will pick up these washers as well. I really like my toys to work when I want to play with them......thus the reason I got rid of the Hornady, seemed like I was always having to tweak something or was breaking small plastic parts....granted I loaded many, many thousands of rounds with it. Also happy to find the 650 primer tube trick. That was one thing I really like on the LNL, the tube dumped into a gatorade bottle and kept everything clean. I will do some more reading, and maybe it is just me, but why the need for the thrust washer or needle bearing? Also, aside from the washer trick, the improved case feeder mod, the toolhead clamp kit, and primer catch assembly, is there anything else I should be looking at? With the low primer warning system on the Dillon I may need to bump up the completed round akro bin, I use to use a full catch bin on my Hornady to tell me when I was running out of primers! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes777 Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 (edited) Ok, i will try to keep this in order: You dont have to tweak all of this stuff. I started chasing things like OAL variance and powder charge variance.. and then it kinda evolved into what it is. If I were to do it again, I would get the bronze thrust washers and two powder baffles. All of the other mods to get it running the way I like can be done in my garage for little to no money. The reason for the washers is this: the shell plate bolt will begin to stick to the shell plate and tighten itself periodically. there is a retaining pin.... but it also will succumb. If you choose to run a loose bolt, you will experience shell plate snap.... which will periodically throw powder all over the place. This will counteract all the work you did to get your powder drop "just so". The washers allow you to tighten the shell plate down and reduce/eliminate the snap without binding the plate periodically. with the low primer warning, there is no need for an akro bin to tell you when you are out of primers. As far as all of the other stuff, Its your money/machine. Mine runs like a burnt dog. I run it fast and am occasionally irresponsible? ie dont look for powder in every case. I put out 1500 rds in about two hours the other day, then chronod 25 random rounds. SD of 7. I am not the best reloader, or most careful. My dillon rocks! And, maybe it makes up for my faults? Edited January 2, 2013 by wes777 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Where did you purchased this from? Lowes and Home Depot looked at me like I was smoking meth when I asked if they carry a Thrust Washer. You know for another $4 you could have had a real thrust washer and never need adjustment unless you swap shell plates... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC49ae Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 http://www.mcmaster.com/# You need 1 thrust bearing, part # - 5909K31 You need 2 washers, part # - 5909K44 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC49ae Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 (edited) http://www.brianenos...opic=86570&st=0 post #166 has the order info. You'll need to bend the ejector wire down (see photos of where to bend) to get the wire close to flush with the shellplate once the 2 washers and bearing are installed. If you choose to use the 2 bronze washers method above (available at ACE hardware in the washer bins labeled "thrust washers") you will not have to mod the ejector wire. Edited January 2, 2013 by JC49ae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franco79 Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Just ordered a LNL Bullet Feeder Support Arm and also the Centering inserts for the Dillon SuperSwage from Dan @ Inlinefabrication Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJCAREY Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 I got the led kit, but haven't installed it yet. By your pictures, looks like it might blind you. Looks bright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drouinhomebuilders Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I also purchased ILF LED lighting kit but found it very hard to keep stuck to the press when it is on for a serious duration of time, it seems to heat up & the tape releases YES I did clean it with alchol swab supplied, Zip ties will hold it in place And for all you guys running the shell plate thrust bearing - do away with the bottom washer as the is no need for that bottom washer, it will run better without it Is anyone using ILF's 650 modified press handles? How do the handles perform? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzi Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Just to chime in. Been using that thrust bearing kit on my xl650 (1993 purchase) for the past year or two. It helped my machine with the powder slop issue on the 45acp I load mostly. Found the kit on ebay. Thanks to the OP for posting his mods and set up. Good stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jlnel Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Great info, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldfish Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Thank you, learned something new today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now