Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

S&W 625


basman

Recommended Posts

OK, this is for all the wheel gunners out there. I am thinking about getting a 625 to compete in the revolver division.

It seems most every one uses 45 acp and only a few folks use the 40 S&W (model 610?) I currently reload each so that is not an issue.

Pro's or cons to each?

Also, any internet sites that cater to revolvers for buying moon clips, moon holders, etc.

THANKS!

Basman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just recently joined the revo club.

625 = moonclips and bigger holes for the reloads. Revo as I learned this weekend,,,is all about the reload and accuracy.

ShooterDoc, if you're listenin',,,,,thanks for the butt kicking Sunday.

I got my moonclips from moonclips.com. Bought a CRSpeed revolver holster from Shooters connection and bought some calif. compworks (I think,,,don't remember) moonclip carriers.

I've got everything on my safariland belt and I'm happy as a clam.

H444

Link to comment
Share on other sites

S&W625 or 610 seem to dominate the IDPA matches. For IPSC/ICORE they are popular but other models come into play as well.

625 IMO has more advantages.

1. Better bullet selection.

2. 45ACP is about as perfect as it gets for reloading. RN bullets really help.

3. 4" or 5" bbl is standard. IDPA requires 4" bbl.

625 was king and may still be but the 610 is moving in on it's territory. Either model it's hard to go wrong. My preference is the round, 45ACP is king in by book so the 625 was a natural for me. Most of my friends shoot the 610 however.

On mine I smoothed up the trigger, Miculek grips, white outline rear sight, gold bead front sight, RIMZ moonclips and you're in business. Like h4444 said it's all about the reloading/planning you're stage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As much as I love .45 ACP revolvers, I'll put a plug in for my own IDPA SSR choice: S&W 646 (non-PC), .40 S&W L-frame. Reloads are fast, recoil is mild (with proper handloads), and the gun handles great. I got it this past spring from Sportsman's Warehouse for $419 + tax.

Although not a small gun, it's also sufficiently compact that I can (and sometimes do) comfortably carry it legally concealed under casual clothing. Not too many people can say that about their N-frames. Makes me feel like I'm staying a little closer to the tactical spirit of IDPA...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a 625 and loved it, re-loads were a dream, it seemed as though you could just throw a moon clip at the cylinder and it would work. (in fact it did, I spent ages trying it out with some dummy rounds I made)

Broke my heart when I handed it in to be melted down. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JimmyB, Sorry we feal for you over here.

Basman,

I have both a 625 and a 610, the 625 is a 5 inch gun and the 610 a 4 incher,

as you have figured out in revolver the most important thing is a smooth,consistant reload (Jerry M. says 2.00 seconds is fast) and that seems to be the goal time wise.

I have took an average of 10 reloads apiece on both guns and the 625 reloads on the average .12 faster for me. there is less metal between cylinder holes on the 625 so they are easyer to hit, but the 610 is not bad either just every now and then the reload bounces off the metal between the cylinder holes instead of going in.

You say you reload for both already so that is no problem, here is something really important, make sure you have a very clean burning powder. as you shoot in a match the cylinder will get dirty on you and the empty cases will stick so cleanliness is important too. I know some revo shooters that clean their cylinder after every stage, I myself do it only at major matches as I consider local club matches practice and don't worry about cleaning it there.

If you are going to shoot only USPSA and ICORE with one gun I would recomend the 625 5 inch

If you are going to shoot some IDPA too you may want to consider the 4 inch version. I myself am using my 4 inch 610 in both right now but will be using the 625 for USPSA after Area-3

I intend to get a 646 like Carmoney and shoot it in IDPA as the smaller cylinder will make reloading it like reloading a 625 and that is a good thing.

good Luck, good shooting and welcome to the wonderful world of revolvers.

Like a good friend of mine told me "anyone can learn to shoot an automatic, but not every one can shoot a revolver"

SAM KEEN

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have decided on the 625. any one know where to get moon clip holders? are any better than any other? and can you stack one on top of another by extending the post?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most competitors use the single moonclip holders vs the double stack style. Log on to Dillon's website as they sell most of the stuff you will need.

http://dillonprecision.com/template/p.cfm?...52&min=0&dyn=1&

Another is Beckham Product Desigh for the RIMZ plastic moonclips advantage is no tools are requires to load and unload. http://www.beckhamdesign.com/index.html

another site is TK Custom, they have the double stack holders.

https://tp-commerce.techpro.com/moonclips/s...mith+%26+Wesson

I'm sure others will provide suggestions as well. Congrats on the 625!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am fortunate to have a 625 of my own and a good wheelgunner (Pat Sweeney) in my club, and he also recommended a hand-held primer-seater if you are reloading on a progressive press like a Dillon 650. The primers need to be seated VERY SNUG, or when the hammer strikes, they won't go off, they'll just fully seat the primer, and dimple it. Be sure to include that on your wish list. Saved me a lot of mis-fires and heartache. As for supplies, I get all mine from Dillon. Hope this helps.

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think everyone agrees a well seated flattened primer will be more sensitive. I don't believe an extra hand primer tool is needed. I'd venture to guess most any press will allow you to seat the primer abit deeper than normal. I use a Dillon 550 and seat the primers as Flex$ suggests.

BTW I installed an oversized firing pin for extra insurance if I need to shoot Winshester primers in factory stuff. Reliability was my first objective with a trigger job then to smooth up the action and lighten the trigger pull. I just feel more comfortable knowing it shoots any brand of ammo, yet has a competition feel to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Although it requires some extra effort initially I have used a primer pocket uniforming tool with great success on my 625. Sinclair make a solid carbide one and I made a holder that fits in my power screwdriver.

While this is primarily an accuracy enhancement procedure (along with deburring flash holes and other bench rest type prep) for rifles I personally feel that it pays for itself in ignition reliability in the 625. I have NEVER had a misfire in the 625 in thousands of rounds.

I recently purchased 2 646s and will be uniforming the primer pockets of those cases designated for use in one of them.

Once I have prepped cases for the 625 (or one of the 646s) I will keep those cases segregated and only use them in the revolvers where they will not be lost. This is a one Tyme procedure on handgun brass.

Thanks

JNT

PS With my RL550B I have no problem seating primers solidly to full depth in any case. However, I don't mess with this procedure for anything but moonclip cases.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't remember, but maybe my using of Winchester primers had something to do with it. Until I started hand-seating them, I would have a misfire every 20 rounds or so. I do NOT have an extended firing pin either if that has anything to do with it as well. And as I said, I reload with a 650.

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jeff,

I think the revolver guys were the ones that started the trend of using the (easier hitting) Federal primers in guns that had their strike power reduced (wheel guns with trigger jobs, Glocks with reduced power strikers).

Federal is the way to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My revolver is a 5" 625 and I really enjoy shooting it now and then. IMHO you simply can't go wrong with it.

On a whim I borrowed a 4" 610 to use for an IDPA classifier. I loaded down the ammo to around 140pf and the sights never left the target it was that nice shooting of a gun, plus the fact that it weighs 50 ounces really minimizes recoil at any power factor. I damn near made expert the first time out with it. The only drawback to the 610 (IMHO) is the reloads aren't as fast because the rounds are "skinnier" and the bullets aren't as tight in the moonclips as a 625, but the chambers can be chamfered.

If you want a revolver to shoot BOTH and be legal in both, then I'd go with the 4" 610, but if you want to shoot mostly USPSA with a wheelgun, I'd go with the 5" 625.

The primer issue isn't really an issue if you use factory ammo because either pistol will shoot factory ammo with 100% reliablility, but you have to keep the factory trigger pull weight. If you have performed any action work on it to lessen the trigger pull, then you really need to use Federals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I don't think that the primer issue will be a problem. I currently reload on a 550, (thanks Brian) and like to seat my primers "firmly"

I am going to start accumulating all the accesories and hope to be practicing soon.

Basman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...