lee blackman Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 I shot a match last weekend with Tula ammo and just thought I had a couple light primer strikes. About every other stage, I would squeeze the trigger, here a typical loud dry fire cling (didn't sound like a light strike) with no bang, clear it and keep on moving. The picked up cartridge had a partial strike on the primer, just a small dent similar to what an AR round thats been chambered gets when the floating firing pin "touches" the back. My thing is I didn't start having this problem until recently and its getting more frequent. The only change thats occured has been the weather getting hotter, and higher round count on the gun. The trigger and all its components other than the connector and striker spring are stock. It has a Rocket 3.5 connector (with the overtravel tab), and a wolf 5 pound (stock is 5.5) striker spring. I maybe have 2k (conservative guess) rounds thru it configured as is no changes. Now the thing that puzzles me, I pulled the striker and the pluger out, and I can see where the striker is repeatedly hitting the pluger. I compared the striker to another on of my glocks and you can see the excess wear, along with the rough "scars" on the plunger. My camera on my cell can't get close enough to macro, so I won't waste anyones time with a poor resolution picture so I'll be descriptive as possible. The striker has two "shelf channels" cut along its side for plunger clearance. The plunger rests on the bottom shelf but moves in the channel of the second shelf when its lifted and teh trigger is pulled. The wear is at the base of the second shelf/top of the first. It almost looks as if someone has taken a small ball peen hammer and hit it a few times with a glancing blow removing the sharp edge. The plunger in comparison looks just as bad. You can see where the edge has repeatedly hit and "chipped" into it. So to me it looks as if the plunger is not clearing the way for the striker. What would cause this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 I have had my share of horrible luck with Tula ammo and reduced power striker springs... Can't speak to the peening of the FPB you're describing, but actually had the same light-strike issues with a Wolff 5.0lb striker spring. I went back to the stock 5.5lb striker spring and have had nearly 100% reliability. Tula stuff is pretty bottom of the barrel, so I've still had a couple bum primers/rounds here and there, but pretty sure it was just par for the course as the stuff isn't the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppa Bear Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Sounds like the over travel stop is too tight. It is not allowing the trigger bar to lift the safety plunger fully out of the way. This allows the firing pin to hit the plunger thus slowing it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noximus03 Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Sounds like the over travel stop is too tight. It is not allowing the trigger bar to lift the safety plunger fully out of the way. This allows the firing pin to hit the plunger thus slowing it down. I had the same issue with Tula ammo out of my Prod 34 after I changed my trigger/connector/spring set out, and with PMC ammo too. I kept the Jager striker, Glockworx spring set, and the Glocktriggers drop in the same, but I changed the striker spring back to stock and that took care of it for me. Havent had an FTF since in either my 9 open, or my .40 open uppers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee blackman Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 Sounds like the over travel stop is too tight. It is not allowing the trigger bar to lift the safety plunger fully out of the way. This allows the firing pin to hit the plunger thus slowing it down. Thats kinda what I was thinking. The over travel stop tab is .2575" long. I'm going to file it down to .2500" and see if that fixes it. At first I thought it might have been Tula ammo, but I put 100 rounds of Winchester white box thru the gun and the problem happened twice. I also remember before the match last weekend I has put a 100 round value pack of federal thru the gun and it happened once but I thought it was an anomoly. I'm going to work with the over travel stop tab. I'd put the factory parts back in but I can't seem to find them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee blackman Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 Yup well that didn't work, guess I'll just keep cutting it down and making it shorter till it works... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reptoid Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 What weight recoil spring are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Njanear Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 As the others did, I would recommend that you go back to the stock striker spring and see if that fixes your issues. There have been too many reports of the lightened striker/firing pin springs causing such issues to not rule that out first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee blackman Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 (edited) I'm using the stock recoil spring. I did a little test. I took out the firing pin safety block all together and put the gun back together. I put x3 50rd boxes of Tula thru it without a single misfire. And the trigger was way way lighter. Just I don't feel exactly safe running the gun without the firing pin safety block. But I'm going to take it out again this week and put more rounds thru the gun without the firing pin safety block just to assure that its my issue and not something else. Edited May 14, 2012 by lee blackman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Is it possible that a 25¢ trigger job could have shortened the height of the part of the trigger bar that presses up on the safety block? Maybe swap in a new trigger bar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Yup well that didn't work, guess I'll just keep cutting it down and making it shorter till it works... I couldn't make the Ghost Rocket connector work in a couple of 34 ~ 10 years ago..... Decided that I'd rather have a less nice but reliable trigger.... YMMV... :ph34r: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firemantj Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 If you dry fire the gun while looking up towards the slide through the magwell, you will be able to roughly gauge how much you need to remove from the OT stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee blackman Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 So I put it thru the numbers, I'm completely out of 40 ammo now. The gun run's 100% without the safety block in the gun. It doesn't matter what kind of ammo, Tula, Win, Fed, even my crappy handloads. I put the safety block back in the gun and it hick ups with all ammo. Not every round, but at least once or twice every 50 rounds. So it has to be the connector's over travel stop bar right? So keep trimming it till it works right or change it out. I know I could just run the gun without the firing pin safety block, and series 70 colts and pre-b CZ's, and some other guns don't have firing pin safety blocks, but I don't think I feel comfortable without one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppa Bear Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 I have 3 spare trigger bars for my Glocks. They range from .664 to .681 at the tang that pushes the safety plunger out of the way. Do you have a way of measuring yours? It sounds like the safety plunger is not getting pushed up far enough. If you have modified the over travel stop enough that the trigger is capable of pushing the plunger fully out of the way, then it could be a bad trigger bar. It is also possible that the cruciform on the trigger bar has been polished enough to remove sufficient material that the firing pin is being released early. This could lead to the same problem because the FP is releasing before the safety plunger can get full out of the way. If you have an extra trigger bar try dropping that in to see if the problem is corrected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now