AustinL911 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 I just recently bought some parts so I could start tinkering with my Production G34, which includes a Zev tech extended stainless non captured guide rod. I didn't give it a thought until I had it installed, but you can clearly see it sitting in there when looking at the muzzle. Is it still legal for Production? Also, for trigger parts, I bought a Zev tech spring kit (RP striker, trigger, and safety), v4 connector, and did a $0.25 trigger job on it. I also bought ISMI 11 and 13# recoil springs to play with. The pull weight is a hair over 3lb according to my Lymen digital gauge. The problem is, the pretravel sucks. Is this a common problem? The trigger will no longer reset all the way forward. Is there an ejector housing that has pre travel and over travel set screws installed that I can buy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyroWebs Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 (edited) The guide rod is legal as long as you still make weight with it installed. As far as the pre-travel, there is not a lot you can do to get rid of it and remain Production legal(AFAIK...someone might be able to correct me though). Once you learn to ride the reset it won't bother you. For the springs, try swapping out the RP striker spring for the regular strength. I wasn't happy with my trigger pull when I installed the spring kit, and changing out the striker spring gave me a much more positive reset(but it will add a slight bit of weight to the pull). Lone Wolf makes a trigger over-travel housing, but I have not tried it. Edited April 17, 2012 by KyroWebs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetback Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 (edited) You are legal for Production with SS rod. Rules say 2 oz. over stock weight G34 is 26oz. + 2oz.= 28oz. Glockworx has a trigger bar with reduced pre travel that is supposed to be legal for production. Use the stock Glock trigger return spring it will provide a stronger trigger return/reset. And learn to ride the reset. Edited April 17, 2012 by sweetback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdphotoguy Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 You are legal for Production with SS rod. Rules say 2 oz. over stock weight G34 is 26oz. + 2oz.= 27oz. I believe 26 + 2 = 28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmc0326 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 You are legal for Production with SS rod. Rules say 2 oz. over stock weight G34 is 26oz. + 2oz.= 27oz. I believe 26 + 2 = 28 where is the like button? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 It was called "New Math" when I went to school! LOL Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 You shouldn't have any problems making weight with a stainless guide rod. I run a tungsten full-length on my 34 and still have 0.8 oz left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanky Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 You shouldn't have any problems making weight with a stainless guide rod. I run a tungsten full-length on my 34 and still have 0.8 oz left. same here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 I just recently bought some parts so I could start tinkering with my Production G34, which includes a Zev tech extended stainless non captured guide rod. I didn't give it a thought until I had it installed, but you can clearly see it sitting in there when looking at the muzzle. Is it still legal for Production? Also, for trigger parts, I bought a Zev tech spring kit (RP striker, trigger, and safety), v4 connector, and did a $0.25 trigger job on it. I also bought ISMI 11 and 13# recoil springs to play with. The pull weight is a hair over 3lb according to my Lymen digital gauge. The problem is, the pretravel sucks. Is this a common problem? The trigger will no longer reset all the way forward. Is there an ejector housing that has pre travel and over travel set screws installed that I can buy? If your trigger won't reset all the way forward, that would mean you have defeated the trigger safety. If you take much of the pre-travel out, you will end up with that same issue...you will defeat the trigger safety. (since you would be limiting forward travel of the trigger to a degree that won't allow the trigger safety to engage.) Also, you may defeat the safety plunger as well. (The trigger bar may already be engaging it.) And, at some point, you may have the trigger bar back far enough that the drop safety shelf is defeated as well (the left leg of the trigger bar). What sucks about the pre-travel? Is is rough? Clunky? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinL911 Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 I just recently bought some parts so I could start tinkering with my Production G34, which includes a Zev tech extended stainless non captured guide rod. I didn't give it a thought until I had it installed, but you can clearly see it sitting in there when looking at the muzzle. Is it still legal for Production? Also, for trigger parts, I bought a Zev tech spring kit (RP striker, trigger, and safety), v4 connector, and did a $0.25 trigger job on it. I also bought ISMI 11 and 13# recoil springs to play with. The pull weight is a hair over 3lb according to my Lymen digital gauge. The problem is, the pretravel sucks. Is this a common problem? The trigger will no longer reset all the way forward. Is there an ejector housing that has pre travel and over travel set screws installed that I can buy? If your trigger won't reset all the way forward, that would mean you have defeated the trigger safety. If you take much of the pre-travel out, you will end up with that same issue...you will defeat the trigger safety. (since you would be limiting forward travel of the trigger to a degree that won't allow the trigger safety to engage.) Also, you may defeat the safety plunger as well. (The trigger bar may already be engaging it.) And, at some point, you may have the trigger bar back far enough that the drop safety shelf is defeated as well (the left leg of the trigger bar). What sucks about the pre-travel? Is is rough? Clunky? The trigger will reset forward completely if the gun cycles (and my finger is off the trigger). It's just that initial ~1/4" of pull feels kind of dead. It's smooth, but just seems kind of excessive. If I cock the gun, the trigger will reset forward 100%. I have to press the trigger safety in order to get the trigger to move at all. From there, there is about ~1/4" of pull before the trigger starts to engage anything. If I stop at this point, the trigger will remain in this position (trigger safety disengaged...) unless I physically move the trigger forward. My concern with the setup as it sits, is that say I'm shooting an array. I'm releasing only until reset between splits/transitions. My gun cycles one final time before I have to move to my next array. I take my finger completely off the trigger before moving. The trigger WILL NOT reset forward 100% to re-engage the trigger safety. That, to me, is a problem and one I'm not willing to accept. For now, I will obviously put my stock striker or trigger spring back in to correct the problem. I just figured buying some simple standard trigger parts from GlockWorx would result in a lighter, yet still safe, trigger. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinL911 Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 Ok, I just swapped my stock trigger spring back into the gun and it's waaaay better now. Trigger resets completely every time. The pre-travel doesn't feel so 'dead' anymore. And the trigger pull is still <3lb. depending on where I place the trigger gauge. I like this setup much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdphotoguy Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Ok, I just swapped my stock trigger spring back into the gun and it's waaaay better now. Trigger resets completely every time. The pre-travel doesn't feel so 'dead' anymore. And the trigger pull is still <3lb. depending on where I place the trigger gauge. I like this setup much better. Glad you found something that works for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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