AustinL911

Keep adding until the clutch starts slipping, then back it off a touch. But seriously, I'm not sure. I put roughly 1/5-1/6 of the case capacity in, and then just grab a handful every once in awhile and toss it up there. I really need to get a mirror setup in place.

I run the same kit with finely polished everything, but had to go back to the stock trigger spring because the trigger absolutely would not reset 100%. It's still <3lb. with the stock trigger spring. I'm happy with it. I only wish I could get rid of some of the pre-travel.

I have one but haven't got a chance to use it too much just yet. So far, I like it well enough. I mainly use it for dry fire practice right now. The only feature I wish it had was a continuous repeat feature of some sort when using the par feature. Say I want to practice a particular dry fire drill 40-50 times @ a par time of 1.2 seconds. I'd love to be able to set the par time @ 1.2sec, with a 5-10sec random delay time before it starts again. The timer has an Auto par feature where you can set up to 20 par times with a selectable delay in between each, but it takes forever to set.

Fury was rocking an M&P.

Buy Steve Anderson's books. They've got some great drills in them.

I've never shot a single USPSA match but signed up based on advice from this forum. I should have 2-3 matches under my belt (if things go as planned) by the time this particular match rolls around. I doubt I'll be classified yet, though. I wanted to make it to Miami's classifier match a couple weeks ago, but something came up and I had to cancel. Such is life.

That's the one I use.

I have a really nice excel file if anyone wants to host it.

How long is a stock barrel good for?

I learned to keep both eyes open in one evening of dry-fire practice. At first, squinting slightly to remove the ghost helped, and I still occasionall do it in matches, especially on longer shots. Most of the time tho my brain doesn't seem to see or notice the 'ghost'. I never shot competively with one eye closed, so it's hard for me to say if or how much it's helped, but I do shoot rifle with one eye closed and it feels a little disorienting to keep one eye closed for very long. Same here. I'm not sure what it was about that evening that I picked it up, but I just did. I bought SA's dry fire book and promptly went home to start playing around with it. I decided then and there that I was done shooting with one eye closed because it tended to give me a headache and/or make my other eye water, causing it to get blurry as well. My goal was to start, from the beginning, with doing the drills with both eyes open. I found that I had to play with the focus of my eyes to get it to work correctly, if that makes sense. I can do it now, but I still need to work on it as sometimes I don't get the focus right off the bat. If I had to describe it, I'd say it's kind of like those stereograph pictures you looked at when you were a kid and you had to get your focus just right to 'see it'. That's the best way I have to describe being able to shoot with both eyes open without seeing a ghost image. It just seems to disappear for me when I get the focus right.

I occasionally hit up my local indoor range to fire off a few rounds. My main purpose, however, is brass collection. I take my old range bag, police my brass, and then when I'm ready to leave, I grab one of the 3gal. buckets (whichever appears to have the most concentration of 9mm/.223) they keep between every bay that's full of brass and dump 30lb. of it into my bag before leaving. They have yet to say anything to me about it.

Anyone tried one in a poly-rifled barrel to see how much leading/other crap it leaves behind? I'm not that familiar with shooting lead casts, in general, but don't they require a wax coating of some sort? Do these require the same or is it just load/shoot?

What are these bullets coated in? Moly? They look blue in color. I assume they are lead cast as well?

My CED 7000 pro. Doesn't seem to, even on its highest sensitivity setting.

Any reasoning behind this? I was under the impression that it was pretty popular.

Just wanted to say thanks to all the guys that put this on. It was my first time out and the experience was great. Crew was super friendly and helpful. I'm looking forward to hitting up some more matches. Thanks again.

I will be there, rain or shine. I just shot my first Steel Challenge match today and tomorrow will be my first USPSA match. Go easy on me.

Ok, I just swapped my stock trigger spring back into the gun and it's waaaay better now. Trigger resets completely every time. The pre-travel doesn't feel so 'dead' anymore. And the trigger pull is still <3lb. depending on where I place the trigger gauge. I like this setup much better.

If your trigger won't reset all the way forward, that would mean you have defeated the trigger safety. If you take much of the pre-travel out, you will end up with that same issue...you will defeat the trigger safety. (since you would be limiting forward travel of the trigger to a degree that won't allow the trigger safety to engage.) Also, you may defeat the safety plunger as well. (The trigger bar may already be engaging it.) And, at some point, you may have the trigger bar back far enough that the drop safety shelf is defeated as well (the left leg of the trigger bar). What sucks about the pre-travel? Is is rough? Clunky? The trigger will reset forward completely if the gun cycles (and my finger is off the trigger). It's just that initial ~1/4" of pull feels kind of dead. It's smooth, but just seems kind of excessive. If I cock the gun, the trigger will reset forward 100%. I have to press the trigger safety in order to get the trigger to move at all. From there, there is about ~1/4" of pull before the trigger starts to engage anything. If I stop at this point, the trigger will remain in this position (trigger safety disengaged...) unless I physically move the trigger forward. My concern with the setup as it sits, is that say I'm shooting an array. I'm releasing only until reset between splits/transitions. My gun cycles one final time before I have to move to my next array. I take my finger completely off the trigger before moving. The trigger WILL NOT reset forward 100% to re-engage the trigger safety. That, to me, is a problem and one I'm not willing to accept. For now, I will obviously put my stock striker or trigger spring back in to correct the problem. I just figured buying some simple standard trigger parts from GlockWorx would result in a lighter, yet still safe, trigger. Thoughts?

I just recently bought some parts so I could start tinkering with my Production G34, which includes a Zev tech extended stainless non captured guide rod. I didn't give it a thought until I had it installed, but you can clearly see it sitting in there when looking at the muzzle. Is it still legal for Production? Also, for trigger parts, I bought a Zev tech spring kit (RP striker, trigger, and safety), v4 connector, and did a $0.25 trigger job on it. I also bought ISMI 11 and 13# recoil springs to play with. The pull weight is a hair over 3lb according to my Lymen digital gauge. The problem is, the pretravel sucks. Is this a common problem? The trigger will no longer reset all the way forward. Is there an ejector housing that has pre travel and over travel set screws installed that I can buy?

I recently started loading up some rounds for my new production gun (G34). The starting load I chose was 124gr Rainier TMJs seated to 1.125-1. 30" over 4.3gr of Bullseye (its what I had on hand...) with just enough crimp to remove the flare. I set my Chrony Beta Master about 3' in front of my bench and fired 10rd. Avg velocity = 1230. Obviously way too fast. So, I loaded up some more @ 3.9gr and repeated the same test. Avg velocity = 1260. So I'm a bit confused. Is the chrono picking up on the muzzle blast instead of the bullet? I also noticed the cases on the 3.9gr load were quite a bit dirtier than the 4.3gr load, so I assume they aren't sealing as well. And finally, I noticed that the 3.9gr load had a tendency to barely eject the round and sometimes threw it onto my left shoulder. Odd. Thoughts?

Second range trip today. I didn't shoot for groups, but wanted to give shooting with both eyes open a chance given it seemed to work out great during dry fire. The result = muuuuuuch better. It's amazing how much easier it is to shoot accurately when your eyes aren't so strained. I'm almost amazed that I was able to pick this up so easily given the fact that I've read some shooters have a really difficult time with it. I wouldn't consider myself to be 'fast' by any means, but I wasn't having too much trouble at all hitting an 8" plate @ ~30yd., if I slowed down and took my time with it. I found that if I didn't rush myself, I didn't jerk the trigger; imagine that... BTW, I have always heard, "Front sight, front sight, front sight" when it came to aiming, however, I found myself focusing more on the target and having the front/rear sight somewhat blurry. I didn't really try to focus on the target, it just sort of happened that way. Is this uncommon? Anyways, onto more dry fire as it seemed to really help from one short and simple session.

I did 2 hours of grip work, draws, and sight acquisition per Steve Andersons book today. I have noticed quite a bit of improvement in just that little bit of dry fire practice already.

I hate to admit it, but I skipped the match. I just felt too rushed to get everything in order beforehand. I ordered the conversion kit for my dillon so I can crank out some ammo with efficiency. It also gives me time this week to hit up the range to make sure my sights are where they should be and to get more than 100rd. through the gun before diving into a match. No worries though, there are 3 different matches this coming weekend to choose from. Thanks for the advice though, guys.

Holy crap, I didn't realize I was this bad... So I've been a little rushed to get things in order for my first match, which is tomorrow morning. Bought a new gun, sights, belt, holster, pouches, etc. so I can dive right into the sport of USPSA. Went to load up my first 9mm rounds last night on my Dillon 650 only to realize, I forgot I don't have a 9mm conversion kit for it (but I seem to have everything else imaginable...). So, 100rd. later on a single stage ( ), and I've got some ammo to try out. I take it out to the local outdoor range and run some over the chrono; 1230fps. Yikes. I'll have to tone that back a touch for the match ammo, but obviously won't have time to test it. Anyways, I start running through the ammo that I brought to see where I stand and I make the quick realization that I can't hit a damn thing. I mean, to the point that it's pretty embarrassing. For starters, I think I'm jerking the trigger, causing the rounds to pull left. I also benched the gun to see how it hit at ~25yd. and it appears dead on in elevation, but again, seems to be hitting about 6" left at that distance. I tried running through the plate rack at about 15yd. to see how I do, and it was nothing short of terrible. I'm talking 30rd. to take down 6 plates.... I found that I did better if I aimed at the top of the plate, but even still, I sucked at it. Any tips to improve on accuracy before I go and completely embarrass myself? I'm thinking about skipping the match tomorrow and hitting up the range next week to 1. Figure out exactly where my gun is hitting, 2. Get my sights set where they need to be, and 3. practice.