45acp questions

[TimG_SC]

I am new to reloading and I just started loading 230g 45acp and have a few questions. First let me say I just purchased an STI Trojan and Spartan and will be shooting the loads in these guns. I am currently loading precision Delta FMJs with 4.0g of Clays at 1.250 picked up range brass. First question: what is the easiest way to sort the brass for large/small primers? Like I said I am new to this and I can,t easily tell with a quick glance at the primers. I did notice all of the small primers I have sorted have been Federal headstamp with a dot after word Federal. I am loading on a Dillon 650. Am I correct to assume that if a large primer case gets mixed in while setup for small primers that the primer will go boom when trying to seat a large primer int a small primer casing? Next,who sells the cheapest(good quality+shipping) 230 grain FMJs and also 230g lead RN bullets? I purchased some 230g lead from GaArms last week at gunshow. How much powder for the lead230s? I am looking for lowest recoil. I am using the stock recoil springs (16lb?) but I have a wolf spring kit going all the way down to 11lb in one pound increments. I also puschased shock buffs but I have never used these before. Which end of the recoil spring do they go on? What powder/spring combo would you recommend for lowest recoil?

Thanks in advance

[Torogi]

I don't think there is a product yet out there that will separate the small primed 45ACP brass from large primed ones. I load small primers (for 9&40) and I can tell if there is extra resistance when the primers aren't seating right. I've crushed primers but luckily it never went bang. If there is unusual resistance, stop. NEVER force it!

EDIT to add: safety first, wear goggles at all times during reloading.

Edited April 11, 2012 by Torogi

[Caffeinated]

No easy way to separate large and small primer brass other than looking at it. I look when I'm picking it up and then again before it goes in the hopper.

I load on a Hornady Lock n Load and every once in a while a small primer case will get in there. Haven't had any exploding primers yet with CCI's.

As far as the Clays 4.0 load, I be live that is the Max for a 230gr bullet. You may want to start around 3.7 and work up.

[mbopp]

I've had good luck with the "soft" Mastercast bullets:

http://www.mastercastbullets.com/home.html

Are you stuck on 230gr bullets? I run 200gr SWC's but just ordered some 200gr RN's to try in a stock Colt Government.

I don't use Clays but I've heard it has a steep pressure curve - a small charge increase can lead to a major pressure increase. I use W231 / HP38 but got a deal on some Unique I couldn't pass up. WST is reported to be a good choice and clean burning also. Of course OF's like me also run Bullseye.......

Do you need to make Major PF, or are you looking for target loads? I have a 16# spring in my 1911 and it'll function at a pretty low loading.

Shock buffs go on the recoil spring guide before you put the spring on. They should be inspected every time you field strip the gun. But - if a buffer shreds on you it can tie up the gun. Lots of guys won't use one on their carry gun. And they may not let the slide move to the rear far enough especially on a 3" or 4" gun.

Edited April 11, 2012 by mbopp

[Steve RA]

Fill up the liner from a factory ammo box with the rim end up, then you can inspect 50 at a time instead of individually.

Edited April 12, 2012 by Steve RA

[lmccrock]

4.0 gr Clays works for me for FMJ, but would be too much for 230gr lead. I shoot 3.8gr Clays under 230gr Precision bullets, but I worked up to it from 3.6gr.

My experience agrees that the Clays pressure curve is steep. A couple tenths can go from major PF to flattened primers. So Clays and 230gr are good for barely-major, not good for ball-equivalent or pin loads. I would recommend Titegroup for a new reloader. TG uses just a few tenths more, and is more forgiving.

I cull the small primer brass, not enough in the pile to make them worthwhile to keep. I guess my eyeball is calibrated, because I can spot them vs. large primer.

[hiker88]

Fill up the liner from a factory ammo box with the rim end up, then you can inspect 50 at a time instead of individually.

Excellent idea! It gets tiring really fast going through 45 brass one by one.

[RebootUSA]

I hand deprime all my brass before cleaning, then I use a 4.5 metric hex key to sort my brass. I hold the hex key at a 45 degree angle and try to hang the brass by the primer pocket on the hex key. If the brass fits on the end of the key, it is a large primer.

If you do not deprime, you could still jury rig some kind of gage to measure the primer.

[shooter57]

Your looking for problems using buffers if you really don't need then, first clue will slide not locking back

Edited April 14, 2012 by shooter57

[wes777]

Get two empty buckets and a box of brass. Go to living room. Turn on tv. Place box between legs and a bucket to the left and right. Sort handfull and repeat.

[Seeker]

No easy way to separate large and small primer brass other than looking at it. I look when I'm picking it up and then again before it goes in the hopper.

I load on a Hornady Lock n Load and every once in a while a small primer case will get in there. Haven't had any exploding primers yet with CCI's.

As far as the Clays 4.0 load, I be live that is the Max for a 230gr bullet. You may want to start around 3.7 and work up.

I also load on a hornady and there is a distinctly different feel when it's a small primer brass. It's like a "hard stop" I never forced the handle so there is a very minimal chance to a primer detonation. I do wear safety glasses. Whenever I find one that "won't prime" I put the now sized, de primed brass in the small primer ACP box. When I have enough to make it worth my wile I prime them and load them.

I've noticed that "crimped" 9mm feel the same way.

For affordable 230FMJ I like Zeros @ $120 per 1000 including shipping when you buy 2000 http://rozedist.com/

Problem is the are usually sold out so check every day and when available order as many as you can.

[Seeker]

duplicate

Edited April 24, 2012 by Seeker

[Bwana Six-Gun]

"Get two empty buckets and a box of brass. Go to living room. Turn on tv. Place box between legs and a bucket to the left and right. Sort handfull and repeat."

Throw small primer brass in trash.

For bullets, try Precision Bullets if you are going to use it in a bottem-feeder. If you are one of the elite who shoot revolver, go to BillyBullets.com and get their 230 RN.

For powders, it is hard to beat Clays. Despite the pressure curves, it burns clean and there are several loads that have worked well for me. For lead, I use 3.6 and have no problem making major and the recoil is soft.

For jacketed bullets, try Precision Delta. They make a good product and shipping is included. Go to about 3.8 and work from there.

have fun!

[Steve RA]

I'd suggest keeping the small primer brass - even if you don't use it now - as I imagine most of the factories will eventually go to it.

[Dirty Rod]

"Get two empty buckets and a box of brass. Go to living room. Turn on tv. Place box between legs and a bucket to the left and right. Sort handfull and repeat."

Throw small primer brass in trash.

Correction - "Send box of small primer brass to Rod"

[sdixon3]

Been buying from these guys with great results, or at least I have been happy!--

zcastbulletz

[TimG_SC]

Been buying from these guys with great results, or at least I have been happy!--

zcastbulletz

I checked out the website "zcastbulletz" and there prices listed are much better than I have seen anywhere else. What gives? Is this legit? I notice the poster has only this one post.