p5200 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 (edited) Has anyone else noticed the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 Dispenser/Scale to be sensitive to this or, other powders as far as trying to actually soften and try to eat into the plastic base as well as the clear tube? I had a heck of a time getting this powder loose from the clear plastic tube and, the insides of the green base after sitting just over night? There was still, a sticky feeling after removing the powder It's been two days I haven't checked it again yet but if it's still a little tacky feeling any suggestions on what I could use to wipe it down with? I thought about a damp rag with Alcohol but I'm open to all suggestions. I'm for sure, going to drain it after every session from now on as these things aren't cheap. Thanks! Edited March 21, 2012 by p5200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Had titegroup discolor and eat my Hornady tube.. i dont leave it in there anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p5200 Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Had titegroup discolor and eat my Hornady tube.. i dont leave it in there anymore. Thanks for the reply, I hope there aren't many other powders that do that. I don't think I ever had a problem with my rifle powders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan550 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Titegroup has a higher nitroglycerin content than most other powders, so that's probably the reason for it "eating" the plastic. Alan~^~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwsnowbum Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 I had this problem with Power Pistol in my Chargemasters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59Bassman Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 I've never been good about removing powder when I'm done with it, however TiteGroup has made a fanatic out of me. It ate through my LNL drop pretty quickly. I've actually looked through the McMaster-Carr catalog a few times for other materials that might be more resistant, but I'm unsure which to try at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tul9033 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Flip the tube over to buy you bit more time. Titgroup eats the tube on my LNL in a matter of weeks even with draining after every session. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p5200 Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 Well, I sure am glad to see that I'm not the only one having this problem. Not, that I get pleasure from hearing about other folks misfortunes. I really think these companies need to experiment with some different materials that will handle the chemicals in these powders (if) possible. I don't remember any rifle powders causing problems with my ChargeMaster 1500 so far anyone else? Of you folks that have had the same problem, what did you use to wipe off the sticky feeling to the plastic so newly added powder won't stick to it? Alcohol maybe, or did air drying work. I'm thinking about going back to my Win 231 powder again I don't remember having that problem wit it does anyone else? I sure appreciate everyone chiming in as this is a pretty important matter to us reloaders. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tul9033 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I've tried compressed air, rubbing alcohol, even bounce sheets(and all 3 together) noting has made much of a difference. Even emptying after each session is only buying a bit of extra time before discoloration and the melting effect sets in, I've had my latest tube in use for 2 weeks. Hornady sent me 2 new ones at first when I asked. Then I bought 2 more @10 bucks a pop, so I am on my 3rd tube in 3 years. The tube that I had in the longest actually started to sag about a 1/2" leaving it fat and mishappen at the bottom. If the RCBS material is showing the same symptoms probably not a material issue. However, I would be curious what RCBS has to say. They have always had good support. Good luck, not sure how easy the chargemaster's tube is to change out or if it's even possible. At least with the LNL it has a metal base and the tubes are only $10. Well, I sure am glad to see that I'm not the only one having this problem. Not, that I get pleasure from hearing about other folks misfortunes. I really think these companies need to experiment with some different materials that will handle the chemicals in these powders (if) possible. I don't remember any rifle powders causing problems with my ChargeMaster 1500 so far anyone else? Of you folks that have had the same problem, what did you use to wipe off the sticky feeling to the plastic so newly added powder won't stick to it? Alcohol maybe, or did air drying work. I'm thinking about going back to my Win 231 powder again I don't remember having that problem wit it does anyone else? I sure appreciate everyone chiming in as this is a pretty important matter to us reloaders. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I can tell you that we at Dillon are continually testing new plastics for their resistance to gunpowders. I suspect it is more related to the solvents used to neutralize the powder after manufacture that are the culprit. Our newest hopper tubes are polycarbonate, which shows much greater resistance to discoloration. The older material would discolor, but not erode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giant81 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I wonder if I could find somewhere to get a glass tube for my Hornady loader, that should be non reactive with everything and last longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 (edited) I wonder if I could find somewhere to get a glass tube for my Hornady loader, that should be non reactive with everything and last longer. Glass may be possible, I was thinking stainless steel would work also. Edited March 22, 2012 by DWFAN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tul9033 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 The only issue I see with glass is the powder drop is cast and has 2 lips to hold the plastic tube in. I wonder if I could find somewhere to get a glass tube for my Hornady loader, that should be non reactive with everything and last longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Aluminium would be best, and anodise it as well. Lyman make a large black powder measure that uses aluminium hoppers. No sparks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giant81 Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 I was thinking glass you could still see the powder level, but with a low powder alarm, it should be easy enough. Or do like I do, put in enough to cover over 100 rounds, then when I stop to refill the primer tube, top off the powder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tul9033 Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 I've ben looking at either Cast Acrylic or Polycarbonate. Here is a chemical resistance chart. Chem Resistance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p5200 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Just curious but, anyone know why Titegroup does not have the same negative effects on the bottle it comes in from the factory? Chemical vs plastic reasons, or the fact that the containers are air tight? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 What about lining the powder hopper with Aluminum Foil ? Cheap and easy to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillC Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Titegroup does a number on the RCBS plastic, and quickly (as in overnight). There's no way to remove the etching. This is the only pistol powder I've found that does this. If you think the clear plastic etching is bad, look inside the body of the dispenser - it can get ugly. When you contact RCBS, they will nag you about the sentence in the manual that tells you to empty your measure when done loading. And then, being the amazing company they are, will probably send you a new clear hopper. I doubt they'll do that more than once... Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Has anyone else noticed the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 Dispenser/Scale to be sensitive to this or, other powders as far as trying to actually soften and try to eat into the plastic base as well as the clear tube? I had a heck of a time getting this powder loose from the clear plastic tube and, the insides of the green base after sitting just over night? There was still, a sticky feeling after removing the powder It's been two days I haven't checked it again yet but if it's still a little tacky feeling any suggestions on what I could use to wipe it down with? I thought about a damp rag with Alcohol but I'm open to all suggestions. I'm for sure, going to drain it after every session from now on as these things aren't cheap. Thanks! Titegroup has a high notroglycerin content and nitroglycerin is a great solvent for some plastics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brhalolll Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 No issues with TiteGroup on the Dillion 550 tube. However, Winchester AutoComp is sticking to the inside of the tube now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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