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Glock trigger job


JD45

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I'm going to do a simple trigger job on a G17. I want it to light all primers, because I will shoot a lot of factory ammo.

One day I may do the trigger job JoeD posted about sub 2lb. triggers, but no drilling holes for now. He said to stay with the stock striker and spring to pop all primers.

The gun I bought has a NY trigger in it, which will be removed.

I only want to buy a 3.5 connector, and springs for the job. That's it for now.

I looked at the Ghost Rocket, but don't really know what brand is best.

What should I buy, and how light of a pull can I expect?

Also, because I shoot IDPA too, the guide rod will have to be the same as factory. So, I plan to buy a captive rod with a 13lb. spring. But what brand? The Wolff uses a guide rod that is illegal for IDPA.

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Skip the Rocket - get a Lone Wolf or even a Glock 3.5. You can use the Glock guide rod and pop off the retainer then change springs and put it back on. You are likely to have about a 4.5lb trigger. You can get lower with a weaker striker spring and perhaps a stronger trigger spring. You would do well to get a reliable package from Glocktriggers.com. Practice a lot - do not start with a light trigger pull you will AD/ND.

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I used the ghost connector and the wolf competition spring kit in my g35. I polished all the parts myself and got a 3.25 lb trigger pull. It still has the factory striker. I have received no light strikes in over 5000 rounds but ymmv.

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Thank ya'll. I would like to hear from more members though.

I think that a lot of people could use information on a Glock trigger job that lights all primers and uses a stock striker.

The search function does not always find what you need.

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Glockworx has a really good competition spring kit, and 3.5 connector. I went with a Lone Wolf guide rod and recoil spring in 14# for my wifes 17. She hasnt complained about it after 4 matches....so I think it's good for her. I run a totally different set up in my 34. GlockTriggers drop in kit, Glockworx, recoil spring, and comp springs kit. Wound up with a sub 3# pull on a pull gauge.

EDIT- forgot to mention that I also run factory ammo, and the comp striker spring and the rounds didnt like eachother at all. Now running the stock striker and spring with zero FTF's since.

Edited by Noximus03
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There are a a lot of good glock parts out there. My 34 came with the ghost. Put a little work into it and it rocks. Still have the stock striker and springs. Very clean pull and break. I call my trigger job the $1.00 job.... Cause it takes 4 times as long as the 25 cent job.

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I'm cheap, so I didn't buy any of the $100+ kits. I bought a couple spare stock trigger bar assemblies (long nose), a spare safety plunger, and a Wolff spring kit. I polished the head of the plunger, the edge and the side of the trigger bar where it contacts the connector and the safety plunger, and the connector where it contacts the trigger bar. I used a dremel tool with polishing wheels and jewelers rouge for most of it and some fine stones to finish. I did not alter the shape of anything. I initially tried a 3.5 stock connector and a Rocket connector with the above and the trigger pulls came out to a mushy 2.5 lbs or so. I then did it with a stock 5 connector and the trigger now feels like it has some take up with a 3.0 lb crisp pull.

Edited by mpolans
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  • 3 weeks later...

After making a few changes, I measured the pull with a RCBS trigger gauge. After a 100rd. match it measures 5.5 to over 6lbs!!

I started with a 13lb. ISMI recoil spring and a Lone Wolf 3.5 connector. It felt over 2-3lbs. lighter than stock and smooth.

Then I clipped a coil and a half off the safety plunger spring and did the polish job on everything. Felt a little lighter, but not much.

I then clipped 2 coils off stock striker spring. Pull seemed lighter. I attempted to lighten the stock striker, by cutting a channel as in a pic I found here, plus clipped a 3rd. coil off the FP spring. But I didn't know how to make the channel as wide as in the pic, and keep it straight, so I stopped.

Hundreds of dryfires later, it felt heavier, and stacks up more. I disassembled and saw some odd looking wear mark on the connector flat. I polished a little and lubed it, but it still sucks.

A friend even said that a drop-in Glock 3.5 con. and no other work usually feels better.

WTF???

Edited by JD45
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All that a lighter striker will do is decrease the time between when the sear and striker release to the time when the striker ignites the primer. A lighten striker should have no real affect on your trigger pull. This is of course up for debate, however I have not noticed a difference. In my honest opinion I think that you should order a competition spring kit. Once you reduce the striker Spring weight you will have to be careful a bout which primer you use as using certain primers with the stock striker may lead to light strikes. If you want to do it your self take a drill and drill lots of holes in your striker, a drill press would be preferable.

IMHO the only way to cut the corner a round purchasing a 250 or $300 trigger system is to buy the lightened and striker, competition spring ki,t and ghost rocket connector. Then they must all be fitted properly and tested. This is the route I went in my 34, and I am constantly gettinng positive feedback on this system. Just my 2cents.

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I'm aware that lightening a striker is just to make it fire all primers, not lower the pull weight.

I've heard people saying they've dropped-in a 3.5 connector, AND DID NOTHING ELSE, and got a sub 4.5lb. pull.

After all of the crap I did, why am I looking at near 6lbs. on the gauge??

Maybe when everyone leaves the "Mustard thread" we'll hear an answer.

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I bought my Glock 35 and was not impressed with the trigger system. A buddy of mine purchased one as well and changed his trigger system, using the fulcrum trigger system. It feels so nicely different that its now on my 'To Do' list for my next match, hopefully.

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I used the ghost connector and the wolf competition spring kit in my g35. I polished all the parts myself and got a 3.25 lb trigger pull. It still has the factory striker. I have received no light strikes in over 5000 rounds but ymmv.

Put me in for about 30000 rounds through a 34 and not one problem in the above configuration. As far as the guide rod, I use a 12lb on a Wolff GR, but even with my reloads, my stock guide rod will work but the ejected case just dribbles out the side.

I change this yearly http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22867/Product/TRIGGER-GROUP-COMPETITION-PAK-for-GLOCK-reg-

Added link edit

You buy through Brian's store buy using brownells link

http://www.brianenos.com/store/brownells.html

Edited by sfpmb
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  • 5 weeks later...

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