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New FN SLP Looking for advice on setup


DRWhite

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I am purchasing a new FN SLP and am looking for some good advice on what chokes work best with bird shot and slugs to get the max performance out of this shotgun as well as any other suggestions.

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I don't shoot a SLP but I am told that all you have to do is weld up the lifter and it would be just about right. Others have talked about some trigger work and some other light mods but that's one good thing about the SLP, not a lot to do to it. What model of SLP is it? Which barrel?

Benny Hill would be able to answer the questions about mods better than most.

As far as chokes, that is personal preference but I use mostly a LM and most others are using CYL. There is a mix in-between there but the most important thing to know what to use for a stage and how your gun patterns.

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1. C-rums welded lifter is pretty much a must in my book. I suffered through many thumb bites, before I broke down and got it done.

2. Nordic +1 extension

3. Open up the feed port

4. Order some extra hammer and lifter springs as these can be a common wear item. They are cheap and easy to swap out.

5. Briley extended choke tubes are relatively inexpensive from Brownells. Inv... not Inv+

6. Nordic extended charge handle

7. Nordic oversized bolt release

Not mandatory, but I also recommend:

8. Throat the chamber

9. Round off the back, underside of the barrel, where it protrudes into the breach. It's rare, but you can hange up a sharp edged shell on the bottom of this lip as it is being lifted.

10. Smooth and polish the edge where the magazine tube is attached to the receiver. There can sometimes be a sharp edge right where the shells come out of the tube, which can (on some units) hold the shell while it is being released from the tube.

11. Stippling. Totally a matter of preference. The SLP is a little heavy and the checkering can be a little slippery with sweaty hands. Stippling will make the gun feel lighter due to the additional traction.

12. Cut back and sand down the huge hump which forms the back of the hand guard. When loading, the back of the handguard is like a wall right where you need your fingers to be.

13. Many guys like a plus 2 shell holder in front of the ejection port. Otto or 3gun gear will both work great.

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12. Cut back and sand down the huge hump which forms the back of the hand guard. When loading, the back of the handguard is like a wall right where you need your fingers to be.

Anyone have a picture f this? I'm wearing a hole in my finger reloading this shotgun.

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gng4life I am purchasing the 22in barrel SLP MK1 Competition model I noodled over the longer barrel but think I will stick with the 22in for right now and see how it goes after I do some of the mods.

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gng4life I am purchasing the 22in barrel SLP MK1 Competition model I noodled over the longer barrel but think I will stick with the 22in for right now and see how it goes after I do some of the mods.

They look pretty sharp, I'm sure you will like it. Please let us know how it goes and what you think of it after you get some trigger time. Good luck!

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All I did to mine was add a Nordic +1 extension ($38), and open the feed port at the muzzl end with a dremel tool sanding drum ($0), Cut the spring a few coils ($0). These are 3 easy things you can do at home and not screw with the internals too much.

You don't have to change anything about your SLP, but having all that extra material in the feed port and not being able to stash 9 in the gun when it is staged are small disadvantages that are easily/cheaply fixed.

Welding the lifter is a good idea too, I just have not gotten around to it. I have ripped my thumbnail in half once, During a stage at Ozarks, big problem.

I would just shoot the thing a lot and the changes you need will become apparent.

Oh, and maybe put some type of defining sticker on the stock. All these freakin SLPs look alike, I have had to hunt mine down after someone else picked it up more than once.

Edited by Lead-Head
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Lead-Head sounds good. I too have thought about putting some kind of identifing mark on it so nobody walks off with it. Also what was your stopping point when you were sanding the feed port? Also did you follow up by polishing the sanded area?

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I have a new SLP Mk l, shot a 3-gun today and have a sore index finger and thumb.

Would some one explain and maybe a photo fo what your had welded. Is the shell elevator and lifter the same part??? And what/where is the weld??

THANKS,

Perry

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I have a new SLP Mk l, shot a 3-gun today and have a sore index finger and thumb.

Would some one explain and maybe a photo fo what your had welded. Is the shell elevator and lifter the same part??? And what/where is the weld??

THANKS,

Perry

Here you go...FNSLPbyPT.jpg

They basically copied the mods that James (primarily) and I had already made on our shotguns. Unfortunatley, they are not doing these any more.

Edited by MarkCO
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DR,

The picture above are a more extensive removal of material than what I did. I just removed enough at the front of the port for the follower to be flush with the front of the port. I removed a little at a time, would load a shell or two, see how it felt, and then try it again until it felt good. Slower is better when grinding on your new $1000 shotgun.

Or you can send it off to an expert an tell them to go to town.

I didn't polish anything, the gun is likley to get the crap beat out of it anyway, it don't have to be pretty.

Edited by Lead-Head
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Lead-Head,

You are exactly right on the grinding you can always take more off you can never replace it. I learned that early on in my armorer career. Plus each shooter will be different as far as how they do things. The guy above had a nice job done though.

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I have been experimenting with chokes. So far a Briley LM is far superior to anything I have used both with various birdshot and slug loads.

Edited by Kyreb
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A Briley, extended LM is my go to choke for 80% of my shooting. I would rather choke slightly tight and be more carefull with shot placement, than to beat on a steel and not put it down. It's only one step tighter than an IC, but seems to make a significant difference on the heavier targets. My SLP seems to shoot slugs a little better with IC, so if there are long slugs, I'll run IC and adjust my bird shot to accomodate. This is rare however as I seldom see slugs targets out past 50yds.

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Not mandatory, but I also recommend:

9. Round off the back, underside of the barrel, where it protrudes into the breach. It's rare, but you can hange up a sharp edged shell on the bottom of this lip as it is being lifted.

Anyone have a pick of #9?

Thanks.

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  • 2 months later...

We just came out with a 1 to 2 point sling system for the SLP. Check us out on Facebook: American Firearms Solutions, LLC | Facebook

We currently use the Magpul ASAP as our primary sling mount, but other sling mount options are available upon request. Please e-mail Daniel Riordan at daniel.patrick.riordan@gmail.com for details and any questions you may have.

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