cworks Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 So I am building a Zombie AR and came across Spikes Tactical Zombie Lower. I have managed to find a company that has one but its not colored like the one below. So a quick google search came up with this you tube video. Anybody every tried it? If so how durable is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovel_doctor Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I did one with white out and it seems to be holding up ok. What was this guy using? I didn't catch it. I did a glock with nail polish and its holding up good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovel_doctor Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I guess if I would have read the title of the video I would have know...nail polish...oops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cworks Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 he is using nail polish too. It seems that Testers model paint seems to be pretty popular. Does cleaning it with CLP hurt the nail polish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovel_doctor Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I don't know about CLP and the nail polish but I used a silver paint marker and that turned out nice. I did it the same way he did in the video but i used Rem oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dart368 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I used crayola crayons on mine. So far, so good. I have had to touch up a few spots from where I got some CLP on it but no big deal. I heated up the engraving with a match and passed the flame over the crayon. I heard you don't want it too goopy (Is that a word?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cworks Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 I was hoping to get a more permanent application. I was thinking of using 3 different colors on the Zombie so the crayons might be a little irritating if i had to touch it up. Can y'all post a few pictures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blaster113 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 (edited) I bought these coloring sticks from Brownells years ago and colored in the engraving on my Glock, Colt HBAR, etc. Its held up surprising well for over 10 years. Comes in red, white, gold and black. Used the white color. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7778/Product/LACQUER-STIK-reg- Edited March 6, 2012 by blaster113 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpipe95 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Go to the local target, walmart or whatever and buy a box of crayola crayons. Or just steel some from your kids... CLEAN the part with rubbing alcohol and let dry. Warm the part with the a hairdryer (not the crayon) Once the part is warm enough to melt the wax slowly rub it on the part and let the wax flow. go slow you have time, if you get sloppy now it means more clean up later. let it start to solidify then scrape excess with plastic card Then you can use green can brake clean to to remove any residue It will stay in place for a long damn time and is super easy to touch up, and you get hundreds of colors to choose from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 All depends on how and what you use to clean the colored area. To protect it better you can top coat it with auto clearcoat unless you have filled up the engraving all the way with colored whatever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro-Pain Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 I bought these coloring sticks from Brownells years ago and colored in the engraving on my Glock, Colt HBAR, etc. Its held up surprising well for over 10 years. Comes in red, white, gold and black. Used the white color. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7778/Product/LACQUER-STIK-reg- I use these, but I bought 'em cheap on ebay. They hold up great, fill the holes great, easy to clean the area around, and are bright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cworks Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 I bought these coloring sticks from Brownells years ago and colored in the engraving on my Glock, Colt HBAR, etc. Its held up surprising well for over 10 years. Comes in red, white, gold and black. Used the white color. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7778/Product/LACQUER-STIK-reg- is this hard like a crayon or a thick paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 I bought these coloring sticks from Brownells years ago and colored in the engraving on my Glock, Colt HBAR, etc. Its held up surprising well for over 10 years. Comes in red, white, gold and black. Used the white color. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7778/Product/LACQUER-STIK-reg- is this hard like a crayon or a thick paint? Softer than a crayon, almost like a bar of soap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cworks Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 (edited) ok thanks! I cant really find any instructions online. Do you have to heat the metal or just color it on and wipe the excess off? Edited March 7, 2012 by cworks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 ok thanks! I cant really find any instructions online. Do you have to heat the metal or just color it on and wipe the excess off? When I did it, no instructions, I had to remove a small amount of material as it was dried and formed a 'skin'. Once it got that removed, I just colored in the lettering trying to fill as much as I could since the excess has to be wiped off and most surely some from inside the lettering will also get removed. After filling in the letters, I used a dry cloth to wipe off the excess. Found out if you use a 'stiffer' cloth, it won't remove as much color from inside the lettering. That stuff is hard to wipe off and keep using a clean area of the cloth as the excess will smear onto areas you don't want it. Haven't tried to use any kind of solvent (brake cleaner; alcohol; etc.) to remove the excess, only elbow grease. So far it still looks good. I've done it on my dedicated .22lr rifle so there is no need to oil the exterior of the receiver. Only an occasional wipe done with biodegradable gun cleaner. If any should come off, it's easy to add more color. IIRC I thought there was some info on the arfcom site. Never thought about using nail polish and may go that route if I want a different color than red and white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cworks Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 ok thanks for the help. I might try the nail polish on some spare parts and see how that goes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cworks Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) This is my attempt at it with nail polish. I used an old rusted shotgun barrel for practice. It has real light engraving and the first time I tried to wipe the excess polish off I wiped most of it out of the engravings. So instead of letting it get tacky, I let it completely dry and used a light amount of acetone and a paper towel and this is what I got. Edited March 8, 2012 by cworks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HI5-O Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 That looks really good. I gotta go see what colors my wife has stashed away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cworks Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 lol my wife and I just went nail polish shopping together. How come they just cant make RED!! No wonder women can never make their minds up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbulladdikt Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 I also used crayons....do a search for 'tacticrayola' and see what it brings up on Google They are usually recommended for polymer components....I did my M&P 15-22 and 10k rounds and counting without any issues.... Guessing the paint approach would be preferred for metal parts...heat transfer could be an issue! Post some more pics when its completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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