Xander Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 I just received a mail from Eric G. he says he doesn't use the LSPAkit. He uses a single action sear, that is longer than da and makes the fist shot heavier but the singleaction better. Thats does not seem to work for me because of the increased creep with the deltahammer, i will try the LPSAkit. Thanks for all the help Keep us posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 don't forget to polish the interupter heads that go off the trigger bar. I found on my new gun the trigger stacked heavily at the end of the DA trigger movement. After I polished this part, the DA smoothed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 fyi...just confirmed that all newer sears (not sure of production dates) are hardened throughout...not just case hardened. Bearing that in mind, I would still upgrade my sears in the limited custom, and open gun,..just because it is a better product with the Henning hammer. I have all the Henning hammer/sear/ pins etc. in my limited Custom. I can not replicate the trigger in my Open gun as it uses factory parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 note to self....do not fiddle around too much with the disconnector front edges. I need a new one now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torogi Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Did you cut it too deep? I noticed that on CGW DA-reduction disconnectors, the front of the disconnector in contact with the trigger bow are cut/shaved. But I've heard that out of the box tanfos have shorter DA stroke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) well,..there was some stacking at the rear of the DA trigger press...and the front of the disconnector had some sharp edges. I polished these up and it made it a better release. I went back to the original sear set up (1 piece), but noticed went I pressed the trigger in very slow motion, the dissconnector sometimes got caught on the rear of the trigger bar. I did not think it thru, but for dummy reasons, I trimmed it more, which made it worse. If I had left it alone, I doubt I would have every noticed it in a match or live fire. When you press the trigger at normal speed in SA, the trigger bar is not in that one position long enough to catch the disconnector. I learned something today. ....don't f*#k with the stuff....polishing is plenty good. Edited October 4, 2012 by Mo Hepworth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torogi Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 ha! happens to me all the time. worst is, I tend to change things BEFORE a match. Ok. Now I know what NOT to do=) thanks for sharing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 thing is...I have my back up gun which is a low round count in the 8000rds range. I sold my older gun with approx. 85-90,ooo rds thru it. Big mistake. It was still accurate, and had a trigger you can not duplicate. (dryfired probably as much as it was shot). my backup gun had a good trigger, than I had the Stock 3 trigger kit installed,....and it got better! Every gun is different. I think my new gun which came with the stock3 sear set up will have a nicer trigger with the older style sear. I realize what Eric was saying now...SA is what you need to improve for reset...older style sear can have that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e-mishka Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Is there a way to get stock 3 trigger kit here in USA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torogi Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 thing is...I have my back up gun which is a low round count in the 8000rds range. I sold my older gun with approx. 85-90,ooo rds thru it. Big mistake. It was still accurate, and had a trigger you can not duplicate. (dryfired probably as much as it was shot). my backup gun had a good trigger, than I had the Stock 3 trigger kit installed,....and it got better! Every gun is different. I think my new gun which came with the stock3 sear set up will have a nicer trigger with the older style sear. I realize what Eric was saying now...SA is what you need to improve for reset...older style sear can have that. Yeah, he did mention about the SA. improve that he said. I asked him about the DA, and he said he is designing a new hammer with DA and should have a prototype in 3 weeks but for now he has 8 lbs DA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 thing is...I have my back up gun which is a low round count in the 8000rds range. I sold my older gun with approx. 85-90,ooo rds thru it. Big mistake. It was still accurate, and had a trigger you can not duplicate. (dryfired probably as much as it was shot). my backup gun had a good trigger, than I had the Stock 3 trigger kit installed,....and it got better! Every gun is different. I think my new gun which came with the stock3 sear set up will have a nicer trigger with the older style sear. I realize what Eric was saying now...SA is what you need to improve for reset...older style sear can have that. Yeah, he did mention about the SA. improve that he said. I asked him about the DA, and he said he is designing a new hammer with DA and should have a prototype in 3 weeks but for now he has 8 lbs DA. that is what my DA trigger is currently...7.7lbs-8.1 lbs. (older pistol). I really need to get a Lyman digital scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomukaz Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Hello Everyone, My name is Tomas and I am shooter from Europe, Lithuania IPSC production. I have recently purchases my Tanfoglio Stock 2 9x19 pistol. What I do see is that the trigger pull for the out of the box gun is pretty awful, the DA trigger is nothing to compare lets say to CZ SP-01. As far as I see you guys have tried doing some adjustment to the trigger system of Stock 2, perhaps we can all come to some final conclusion what should be done in order to make the trigger pull especially for DA easier and smooth? Perhaps any advice on that from the IPSC shooters would be greatly appreciated; Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torogi Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Tomas, Most of us here in the US follow USPSA rules. Its less restrictive as far as internal modification (e.g. sear, disconnector, springs, etc). Other than polishing, what else are you allowed to do in IPSC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomukaz Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 (edited) Well I am allowed to do polishing and changing all the parts bu only with the factory parts, I can do all the changing and if the parts are listed in Tanfoglio, I can use them. The trigger pull can not be easier than 5 pounds, basically - this is what I am looking for; Edited January 15, 2013 by Tomukaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magsz Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) Bumping this. I took my sear apart and there is no way i can get that god awful sear spring back in there. There's got to be a trick but no manner of slave pin, six hands etc will allow me to get it all together. A search yielded nothing. Any help available guys? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pCdpU89yKA EDIT: Added the link above for anyone that is interested. I must be fumble fingered because i cant get this rolling today but...its the way to do it. Edited October 30, 2013 by Magsz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prov1x Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) The sear spring was a bit tough for me to get back in as well but i just used a punch to push it in and held it in place. I used another punch as a slave pin once i got it in and then just put the pin back in as i pulled the punch out. I have a two piece sear Edited October 30, 2013 by Prov1x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Bumping this. I took my sear apart and there is no way i can get that god awful sear spring back in there. There's got to be a trick but no manner of slave pin, six hands etc will allow me to get it all together. A search yielded nothing. Any help available guys? Yeah I use a slave pin. I "rock" the sear into the cage so the long leg hooks on the cage, then compress the spring as I bring it up into position, then push the sear pin through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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