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2011 drop in trigger?


APL-G35

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Most triggers are drop in, or can drop in with very little fitting. You'll be disappointed, though, since it's not the trigger that changes the trigger pull weight. It's the interaction of the hammer, sear, and springs.

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Sorry, I guess I should have been clearer. Does anyone make a kit with springs and sear and or hammer that's a reasonable drop in. I'm looking for something that won't require a special grinding jig or fixture to get a decent pull weight.

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some guys have used this kit from Brazos with great results.

http://www.1911store.com/tunedtriggergroupbcg-proseries.aspx

disassembly of a 2011/1911 can be tricky. there are articles on the Brazos website for this. If you can afford to send your gun to a reputable smith who will back up his work then that is another option. Trigger work will run about $150 before shipping to/from the smith

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When using a kit, does anybody know if the safety needs to be refitted to the new sear? Or are sear dimensions generally the same such that if the safety worked correctly with the old sear, it should work just find with the drop in replacement?

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When using a kit, does anybody know if the safety needs to be refitted to the new sear? Or are sear dimensions generally the same such that if the safety worked correctly with the old sear, it should work just find with the drop in replacement?

Maybe... probably not...

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The safety may or may not need work it all depends. Your drop in stuff will not be as good as a fit set as they have to allow tolerence in the dropin for different guns. If your not really familiar with how to setup a trigger job or what to look for for safety, its best to send it off

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Try the EGW ULTIMATE TRIGGER KIT. You will not be disappointed. The best value on the market.

With optional Doug Koenig hammer or EGW.

http://www.egwguns.com/ignition-parts/ultimate-trigger-kit/

Thanks,

Robby

One of your nine sponsors Robby? ahem.

Yes the EGW kit is good, but the sears are NOT drop in. They only have primary angle cut, no secondary. The ball type disconnect may need to be fitted to the disconnect hole in the frame. I've had all but one, not even come close to fitting in the hole. THAT IS THE WHOLE POINT of that disconnector. To be fitted to the frame hole. The sear spring is a good one, but if installed as it ships it will not deliver a 2# trigger.

To the OP, a 2# drop in trigger does not exist. You will need to work it to achieve that. Even then, there is no gaurantee that it will function properly. If you change to an EGW hammer, be prepared to change the thumb safety. The EGW hammers are excellent and I use them, but they have a slightly different geometry (which is why they are good).

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I think the real message here is, if you want a 2# trigger, there are a few great options for hammer / sear / disconnect packages, but you absolutely will need a quality gunsmith to do the work...even someone with years of platform experience would take this to a 'smith, due to the necessary adjustments and fitting required. It's likely on top of a new thumb safety that the grip safety will need worked on, too.

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Try the EGW ULTIMATE TRIGGER KIT. You will not be disappointed. The best value on the market.

With optional Doug Koenig hammer or EGW.

http://www.egwguns.com/ignition-parts/ultimate-trigger-kit/

Thanks,

Robby

One of your nine sponsors Robby? ahem.

Yes the EGW kit is good, but the sears are NOT drop in. They only have primary angle cut, no secondary. The ball type disconnect may need to be fitted to the disconnect hole in the frame. I've had all but one, not even come close to fitting in the hole. THAT IS THE WHOLE POINT of that disconnector. To be fitted to the frame hole. The sear spring is a good one, but if installed as it ships it will not deliver a 2# trigger.

To the OP, a 2# drop in trigger does not exist. You will need to work it to achieve that. Even then, there is no gaurantee that it will function properly. If you change to an EGW hammer, be prepared to change the thumb safety. The EGW hammers are excellent and I use them, but they have a slightly different geometry (which is why they are good).

Oh don't you know it ;O) EGW happens to be one of my sponsors. Jim Macort is my guy over there. If you have any questions concerning ease of installation give them a call.

Shawn is correct. You should always have a competent gunsmith installing your components... period! The dis-connector does need to be fit, like Shawn says that is the point. But from my experience it can be done with ease. The EGW kit in my opinion is one of the best values on the market. George and Jim are excellent people to deal with and they make an excellent product. 2lbs and under is very achievable.

And if you're looking for an excellent gunsmith who does great trigger jobs for about 70 bucks contact Gary at Gans Guns. And no Gary does not sponsor me. ;O)

Edited by PINMAN44
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:cheers:

I like their stuff in general. I recomend the kit to anyone interested, unless it's a 2011. I use EE (C&S) kits for 2011's, just my preference. The EGW HD hammer is awesome though.

Since it's just the secondary angle that needs done, youtube it. You can see how to do with just a stone, no jig. A little tweaky-tweak on the spring, spit and polish and test.

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Try the EGW ULTIMATE TRIGGER KIT. You will not be disappointed. The best value on the market.

With optional Doug Koenig hammer or EGW.

Thanks,

Robby

One of your nine sponsors Robby? ahem.

Yes the EGW kit is good, but the sears are NOT drop in. They only have primary angle cut, no secondary. The ball type disconnect may need to be fitted to the disconnect hole in the frame. I've had all but one, not even come close to fitting in the hole. THAT IS THE WHOLE POINT of that disconnector. To be fitted to the frame hole. The sear spring is a good one, but if installed as it ships it will not deliver a 2# trigger.

To the OP, a 2# drop in trigger does not exist. You will need to work it to achieve that. Even then, there is no gaurantee that it will function properly. If you change to an EGW hammer, be prepared to change the thumb safety. The EGW hammers are excellent and I use them, but they have a slightly different geometry (which is why they are good).

Those EGW triggers must be very tedious to install. My 1911 and EGW kit have been with my favorite local gunsmith for several days now awaiting it's new trigger. :roflol:

Edited by Nichvegas
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Like my smith said, there is no such thing as a drop in trigger for a 1911. Sure it CAN drop right in and work but a smith can make it better. There is just to many variances between frames and parts out there. Get good parts, find a good 1911 smith, and let the trigger be what you want. :cheers:

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Like my smith said, there is no such thing as a drop in trigger for a 1911. Sure it CAN drop right in and work but a smith can make it better. There is just to many variances between frames and parts out there. Get good parts, find a good 1911 smith, and let the trigger be what you want. :cheers:

So is the local smith still distracted by filing down a CZ or can he move on to important things like my gun? :P

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Like my smith said, there is no such thing as a drop in trigger for a 1911. Sure it CAN drop right in and work but a smith can make it better. There is just to many variances between frames and parts out there. Get good parts, find a good 1911 smith, and let the trigger be what you want. :cheers:

So is the local smith still distracted by filing down a CZ or can he move on to important things like my gun? :P

Lol, I resemble that remark. Yes, now that the sleazy is pretty I, he... He can work on yours!

ETA: ees dun.

Edited by want2race
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