Buruli Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Hello all: I'm cutting my first frame for a Clark/para ramp barrel need some advice from the experienced gunsmiths out there - My question has to do with cutting the Clark/Para lug slot and how that relates to the timing of the barrel impact to the vertical impact surface (VIS) of the frame. -- Project is 2011 9mm open gun on STI frame with AET Schuemann barrel with Clark/Para ramp Following the Schuemann direcions, when I’m done milling the lug slot in the frame I’ll have .600” from the rear edge of the slide stop pin to the VIS. However, later I will cut the lugs and determine the proper link size. But the link size will influence the timing of the impact of the barrel lug to the VIS. But in order to determine the link size, I have to make the lug slot cut in the frame first. But seems like the lug slot cut probably won't be right since I'll need to have the link size to get the right lug slot length for correct impact to the VIS. So my specific questions of the experienced gunsmiths are … what's the best practice here? Do you just follow the Schuemann directions and cut to .600" ? OR do you mill the Clark/Para standing lug slot in the frame a bit on the short side- i.e. cut to less than .600" and allow the VIS a be little too far forward then do a final fit for the timing after determining the link size? OR am I missing something and there some other better approach? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMC Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Disclaimer: I'm not a professional gunsmith but I have done 3 that now have several thousand rounds on them and they are running fine. I cut based on the directions. The link will stop the barrels travel not the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benny hill Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Cut it to .585 & fit barrel. You then can cut it back till you get the unlock radis you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbutrator Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Mill frame for ramped barrel (specify Clark/Para or Wilson/Nowlin ramp style) $ 50 Clark Guns Why worry...have them do it or call them.. very nice people...KCM..and Jim are tops IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tripod Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Mill frame for ramped barrel (specify Clark/Para or Wilson/Nowlin ramp style) $ 50 Clark Guns Why worry...have them do it or call them.. very nice people...KCM..and Jim are tops IMO. Only problem if you don't live nearby is the $70 plus for shipping. Cut .585 and fit the barrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buruli Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Thanks Benny. You've made guns for several of my friends and they are outstanding. Any tips you or anyone else can share on the best way to determine how much further I need to mill the slot in the frame after getting the right link?. I've read about the Schuemann tests with the thin feeler gauges. Seems like there ought to be a another way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buruli Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Thanks Benny. You've made guns for several of my friends and they are outstanding. Any tips you or anyone else can share on the best way to determine how much further I need to mill the slot in the frame after getting the right link?. I've read about the Schuemann tests with the thin feeler gauges. Seems like there ought to be a another way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 he doesnt use feeler guages to deal with timing, he uses those to ensure for clearance during lock down. you want the barrel to stop on the vis when it locks down, not the link. then you check for lug clearance. Then look for barrel/slide interference, then go adjust the bed and vis , if necess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperman Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Disclaimer: I'm not a professional gunsmith but I have done 3 that now have several thousand rounds on them and they are running fine. I cut based on the directions. The link will stop the barrels travel not the frame. If you're using the link to stop the travel you will break the link sooner or later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbutrator Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 "Only problem if you don't live nearby is the $70 plus for shipping. Cut .585 and fit the barrel" tripod....you my be right. But if your not a pistol smith, the best way is.. to see how the pro's do it and use that as a starting point. Not all pistols/guns are going to fit just right and some adjusting my be required. If it is less than $100 I would say you get alot of bang. And an expert on the phone at Clarks Custom Gun's. Plus you my need advice in the future with the direction you are going with your gun...That's a great plenty for a hundred bucks!..now days. Anyone who needs to ask this question, should follow that advise IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Service Desk Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Hello all: I'm cutting my first frame for a Clark/para ramp barrel need some advice from the experienced gunsmiths out there - My question has to do with cutting the Clark/Para lug slot and how that relates to the timing of the barrel impact to the vertical impact surface (VIS) of the frame. -- Project is 2011 9mm open gun on STI frame with AET Schuemann barrel with Clark/Para ramp Following the Schuemann direcions, when I’m done milling the lug slot in the frame I’ll have .600” from the rear edge of the slide stop pin to the VIS. However, later I will cut the lugs and determine the proper link size. But the link size will influence the timing of the impact of the barrel lug to the VIS. But in order to determine the link size, I have to make the lug slot cut in the frame first. But seems like the lug slot cut probably won't be right since I'll need to have the link size to get the right lug slot length for correct impact to the VIS. So my specific questions of the experienced gunsmiths are … what's the best practice here? Do you just follow the Schuemann directions and cut to .600" ? OR do you mill the Clark/Para standing lug slot in the frame a bit on the short side- i.e. cut to less than .600" and allow the VIS a be little too far forward then do a final fit for the timing after determining the link size? OR am I missing something and there some other better approach? Thanks in advance. The link is designed to pull the barrel out of the locked position and push it back up into a locked position - it's pupose is NOT to arrest movement of the barrel, that is why there is a VIS. If you cut too far i.e. further away from the back of the slide stop the lug on the barrel will never contact the VIS and the link will have to arrest the rearward movement of the barrel.... links are not intended to do this job so the link will eventually break........ so as Benny suggests, cut 5 thou short, fit the bottom lugs and the link... then see if the barrel will cam down to provide enough barrel to slide clearance, if it does not then put the frame back in the mill and move the VIS back a couple of thou... put the gun back together and try the cam down again - I have never had to lower the bed to get contact on the VIS, but I am sure that persons far more experienced than me have.... Benny and Mike have given you the right answers.. if still in doubt, then getting someone else to cut the frame and fit the barrel is a good solution. It is far easier to take metal off than to put it back on. - good luck with it with which ever way you decide to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 the link shouldnt push or pull anything, it should just allow the barrel to swing in an arc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yuthh Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 the link shouldnt push or pull anything, it should just allow the barrel to swing in an arc. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buruli Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 Thanks all for the good advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now