Buruli

At the end of each stroke give a little double tap on the handle. This seems to help for me with Varget.

Thanks all for the good advice.

Thanks Benny. You've made guns for several of my friends and they are outstanding. Any tips you or anyone else can share on the best way to determine how much further I need to mill the slot in the frame after getting the right link?. I've read about the Schuemann tests with the thin feeler gauges. Seems like there ought to be a another way.

Thanks Benny. You've made guns for several of my friends and they are outstanding. Any tips you or anyone else can share on the best way to determine how much further I need to mill the slot in the frame after getting the right link?. I've read about the Schuemann tests with the thin feeler gauges. Seems like there ought to be a another way.

Hello all: I'm cutting my first frame for a Clark/para ramp barrel need some advice from the experienced gunsmiths out there - My question has to do with cutting the Clark/Para lug slot and how that relates to the timing of the barrel impact to the vertical impact surface (VIS) of the frame. -- Project is 2011 9mm open gun on STI frame with AET Schuemann barrel with Clark/Para ramp Following the Schuemann direcions, when I’m done milling the lug slot in the frame I’ll have .600” from the rear edge of the slide stop pin to the VIS. However, later I will cut the lugs and determine the proper link size. But the link size will influence the timing of the impact of the barrel lug to the VIS. But in order to determine the link size, I have to make the lug slot cut in the frame first. But seems like the lug slot cut probably won't be right since I'll need to have the link size to get the right lug slot length for correct impact to the VIS. So my specific questions of the experienced gunsmiths are … what's the best practice here? Do you just follow the Schuemann directions and cut to .600" ? OR do you mill the Clark/Para standing lug slot in the frame a bit on the short side- i.e. cut to less than .600" and allow the VIS a be little too far forward then do a final fit for the timing after determining the link size? OR am I missing something and there some other better approach? Thanks in advance.

JD Machine lowers. PMAGS I'm a lefty and have a Troy left side mag release. Just tried tightening it up and it seems to be working. Thanks all for the advice. Need to get some time on the gun to be sure fully resolved but seems better.

They are going past the mag catch and sticking in the receiver. If I pull down on the mags the mag catch will engage and the bolt will work properly.

I had trouble in a 3 gun match yesterday with a PMAG inserting too far on an open bolt. I inserted the mag and it went in too far so I couldn't close the bolt. It wedged in tight and I had to pull hard and wiggle it to get it out. If I insert the PMAGS gently they go in fine and also drop free, but if I push them in hard they jam. It does it on most of my PMAGS and on both my lower receivers. It does not do it on steel mags. I’ve had this problem now in several matches. What’s going on?? Are ALL my PMAGS out of spec? Are BOTH my lowers out of spec. I do tend to jam it in pretty hard, but seems to me it shouldn't be a matter of getting the right “touch.” Any ideas on what's going on? Anybody had this problem?

It's likely that you'll find cylinder will often be too wide a pattern. For me anyway, I use IC most of the time. Sometimes IM. There's not a perfect choke for every possible situation. Ultimately the best choice will depend on the targets, the distances in the stage and what shot you are using.

19" Saiga 12

I went over to the Dark Side-- how about a custom Saiga?

In theory 3000 fps with the 55 gr Hornady will give you 170 yd zero, 300 first line, 400 first dot on the Z6i. This matched the holdovers for my 2710 fps 77g SMKs. In the real world I found 2800 fps on the 55s is was what it took on my gun. I wouldn't have bothered working up the load except I shoot both 77s and 55s. Once I got a 77 load that I liked, I worked on the load on the 55s. I guess I'd suggest start at the theoretical 3000 fps and see what happens. In my case I found the POI consistently too high at the 400 holdover so worked down. Hope this helps.

I've worked pretty hard at finding a load to work on my rifle and the Z6i to have best accuracy as well as have intuitive holdovers the BRT reticle. My rifle is an 18" JP (1:8 twist). Best for me is 24.5 gr Varget, 77 gr SMK with OAL 2.255. I used the Swaro ballistic calculator, and then empirically tested it. I zero at 170, first line is 300, first dot is 400, second line is 475. The holdovers are easy to remember. I also wanted a 55 gr load that behaved with similar holdovers on the Z6i. I ended up with 24.1 gr Varget, 55 gr Hornady FMJ-BT. I use the same holdovers out to 300 yards - the actual POI is about 3" higher than the SMKs at 400 yards, but if I'm shooting that range I won't be using 55s anyway. Hope this helps. The Z6i is a fabulous optic.

I agree with both of you. As a new shooter I bought the $300/1000 55gr ammo to use in a 1:8 twist 18" JP. It was great practice ammo and good for hoser stages. However our local 3 gun stages go out to 400 yards and often have a 15 mph cross wind. I got really frustrated until realized the problem wasn't just my skill level. I loaded some 77 gr SMKs and they were like lasers compared with the low cost 55 gr. I guess the lesson I learned is, there is a place for low cost ammo, but also better quality too.

Nice side mount! Can you say where you got it or a brand name? thanks, Ron S. The mount is: TufForce Adjustable AK Side Mount MT-2K15 Sold by: The Global Sportsman -- I think about only $38 or so. The height is adjustable so you can get the correct height for your optic. I set the height just enough so I can still use the stock sights in the event of an optic failure, yet still use the red dot comfortably. The center line of the top rail is adjustable though I had to mill the slots a bit longer to get the correct center line on my gun. There is a hollow area under the side rail and this was used to attach the top round retainer for the coupled mags.