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Reducing Trigger Takeup/PreTravel in 1911


EricW

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How does one reduce the takeup in a 1911 trigger properly? Can I just flex the back of the trigger bow back slightly to take some of the play out? Is there a better method.

(A search didn't pull anything up, so sorry if this is a redundant question.)

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What kind of trigger is it, some have a slightly longer bow.

I normally use McCormick's which are not bad.

It came with my S&W 1911, so I really have no clue. I'm assuming that it's from name-brand manufacturer liike the rest of the parts on the gun, but I really don't know 1911 parts all too well.

I really am taking a liking to the gun, so I'd like to dial it in for Lim-10.

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Erik, with the trigger out of the gun, at the fwd lh side of the bow just behind the trigger there may be small L shaped cut in the bow. If your trigger has this bend it fwd until you have the amount of travel you want, a little bit goes a long way. If yours dosent have this you may have to get a aftermarket trigger. Bending the bow can be done but will effect the way the bow fits and can play havoc with the sear and disconector engagement, or as Reneet says weld up a small pad at the rear and file to fit. (the tab in the post above from monster is the L shaped cut I was talking about, most after market triggers have this feature) Larry

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Eric- You also need to look at the grip safety. The point at which it contacts the trigger bow will need to be shortened on the grip safety. As you move the grigger backwards, you will need to grind the grip safety to match. If you have a series 80 safety system, you can get a lot of improvement in the trigger by converting it to a series 70 and moving the trigger bow backwards to take up the slop.

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43 minutes later - not just one answer but FIVE!

This place is so cool. B) Thanks all!

I'll pull the trigger and check for a tab. Lacking that, I'll put on an SVI trigger at the same time I put on the SVI hammer and sear.

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Eric,

The quick and dirty method is to make a couple of slices in the front of the trigger bow with a deremel tool and cutoff blade. This makes a tab as mentioned above. Bending it forward will take up the slack.

I have a trigger so modified ( Wilson ) with something like 75K+ rounds on it.

No specs to provide as to exactly where to cut and how much.

I just eyeballed it.

Travis F.

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Eric,

I have a SS 1911 with factory trigger, to which I did the following to make trigger pre-travel user-adjustable.

Take out the trigger, on front right side (where the bow starts to bend) drill and tap a 3mm hole in the bow, then install a 3mm grain screw.

Set the grain screw as to have the desired trigger take-up, then apply loc-tite thread lock to prevent grain coming loose.

It worked for me.

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