Sidewinder6 Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Im trying to understand why my 2011 trigger does not provide me with the same pull. Sometimes I will pull the trigger and have a clean break. The gun cycles and the next pull there is like half a click before the trigger breaks. Then a third time the trigger pull feels like 8 lbs. Couple of things I want to look at but figured Id ask here first. 1) Trigger bow and channel in the polymer frame are interacting differently from pull to pull. When the gun is disassembled, the trigger flows without interference. The over travel seems properly set. 2) Trigger bow/ Disconnector contact is having some sort of issue 3) Thumb safety is every so slightly creeping up on the strong hand side to produce a strage pull 4) Grip safety on a threshold so there is some sort of contact My first two items are my primary place to look since the occasional click and creep. Other times the trigger feels like a normal 1911 trigger. Anyone been down this road and lived to talk about it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Has there been any grip reduction done to your grip? Thin a grip enough and people with gorilla grip strength can affect the trigger pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidewinder6 Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 No reduction. I have large hands but even when I dry fire and am trying to diagnose a cause, I am not holding the pistol hard because I am trying to figure out the trigger. I AM putting inward and outward pressure on the trigger. Then upwards and down. I cant quite get a handle on this yet. I have a good mating with the grip and receiver frame but I will check that again. I did not over torque the grip screws down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbbean Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 I've experienced that in my 1911 when the trigger channel was gunked up. How recently have you done a detail strip and clean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sauza45 Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Check the grip to see if it is cracked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Tape the grip safety completely down and see if the problem does not go away.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidewinder6 Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 (edited) Tape the grip safety completely down and see if the problem does not go away.......... Ah good idea. I will try this tonite. And I checked the channel for the trigger bow is clean and free of an debris. It does not seem out of shape. Before I started the thread, I had visially examined everything from a detail cleaning including the hammer sear surfaces. The secondary cut on the sear seems good. The variable to me, is the double stack polymer grip and perhaps the way the internals fit in this pistol versus a classic steel frame. It is not cracked or out of shape from what I have found so far. I am going to look again. Thanks.. Edited August 17, 2011 by Sidewinder6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Hello: Are the gripscrews loose? Just saying Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLM Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 What actual trigger is in your gun, STI or SV? I ask because I had a SV in mine and the aluminum part (shoe?) came loose from the bow and was causing issues. Changing triggers cured my problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidewinder6 Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 The trigger is an STI. Something I noticed is these triggers have a angled cut on the right side of the trigger bow in the front. Not sure what the purpose of this is. It is next to the trigger itself. The grip safety taped down did not eliminate the issue. The grip screws were slightly loose which I discovered when I striped the lower down. I found a slight amount of friction with the trigger and the polymer frame that I polished away. The trigger did not flow free before. It does now. I am going to change the sear spring to an STI. The one in there now looks like a standard spring. The STI has a different tab where the center leaf contacts the disconnector. I am looking at changing the disconector and pin for the sear tonight. The pin takes a little pressure to insert which is uncommon. I hope to reassemble the pistol and see if there is any improvement with these changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powder Finger Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 Maybe before you start changing a bunch of parts take Merlin's idea one more step and take the grip safety out completely then try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTSCMike Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 You can also check the grip safety by cocking the hammer on the EMPTY pistol and while laying the pistol on its side on a table with the thumb safety off, press the trigger with one finger (I use my left hand for this) and then press the grip safety with the other hand slowly to see where in its range of movement it allows the trigger to move. If it has to move quite a bit then some fitting might be in order. I shoot with a very high grip and have mine set to disengage almost as soon as it moves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 The trigger is an STI. Something I noticed is these triggers have a angled cut on the right side of the trigger bow in the front. Not sure what the purpose of this is. It is next to the trigger itself. I believe what you're referring to here is a cut that creates a small tab in the front of the bow which can be bent forward to take some of the 'take up' slack out of the initial trigger travel. I've never taken advantage of the tab because what little take up I have has never bothered me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 Are you left handed...? If so - IF you are using an Ambi safety try a single safety.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidewinder6 Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Thank you gents. I am taking in your comments. I will work on these 1 at a time. On the Grip safety, I did disassemble the receiver completely and did test the trigger without the grip safety so I could watch. Before that I taped it down and that didn't isolate the problem. So I continued on. 'The blade on the dis-connector was a bit rounded and 7/1000's shorter than a new one so I replaced this. I also cleaned the inside of the channel where the sear rides inside the frame. Replaced the sear spring with an STI and adjusted it for a lighter trigger pull. ( this is an abbreviated story ). I reset the over travel screw for correct depth ( may have been an influence here). When I reassembled, I have no trigger follow and the creep/ reset mystery seems gone. \ Range test tomorrow and update this weekend. Oh, Im right handed and did not mess with the 'tab' on the front of the trigger bow. I dont mind pretravel as long as I have a crisp hammer release. So far, seems the issues contributing to this were the inside of the polymer frame and trigger channel, Disconnector, Over Travel screw, Burr on the inside of the frame where the sear and disconnector rest, Sear spring, I hope that ends it but only testing will tell. More later and thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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