MTSCMike

Does anyone other than Briley make a Benelli mag tube extension with matching camo finish?

All five! Five gun Sharpsooter

I use a 9# in my custom STI 5" (same as Eagle). I shoot either Federal AE 115 or Atlanta Arms 115

Unfortunately they now say "out of stock - no backorder"

Been trying to stock up for the upcoming 3-gun season and I have everything I need except slugs...anybody have a source ?

I have used Federal Gold Medal Match in the past - 168 gr out to 600 yards and 175 gr at 1000. I haven't done much precision rifle work for a while but just picked up a new bolt rifle. I have tried some Hornady TAP FPD (168 gr A-Max bullet and Nickel plated case) and I'm getting true 1 MOA at 200 yards with it. I have "heard" that the nickel case TAP is not as accurate as the brass cased ammo. Anyone with comparative experience between the TAP FPD and the Hornady Match Ammo with either the 168 gr A-Max or the 168 gr HPBT? I'm hoping for 1/2 MOA without resorting to reloading. I'm likeing the A-Max so far because I can hunt with it if I decide to go that direction.

Explain your situation to your Doctor and Physical Therapist and then do EXACTLY what they tell you to do - no more, no less. They will tell you when it's OK.

I used a Nowlin barrel in an almost identical build in 40 cal about 10 years ago. They make fine barrels and I loved that gun too. The KKM has emerged as the most accurate 9mm barrel around today and that was why I used it. Others are plenty accurate, I just wanted all I could get.

You will be unbeleivably happy with your project! I chose the std frame for my 9mm ESP/3-gun pistol build. If you haven't already chosen all your parts, may I suggest: KKM .355 bushing barrel chambered for 9x19 Ed Brown bushing, grip safety and wide ambi thumb safety - all stainless Wilson Bullet Proof slide stop and pin/spring set - all stainless Colt stainless 9mm extractor Dawson Precision adjustable rear and .100 wide fiber optic front sights C&S fire control group Dawson Tuned mags with spacers Grip color and configuration that suits you. I like to show off a bit Hard Chrome by AP&W This is without a doubt the finest and most accurate pistol I have ever owned!

I don't shoot the 627 but when I had a 610 I used 40S&W instead of 10mm even though I loaded then and could have loaded both to the same PF. Reasons: 40 was shorter so easier to positively eject and the shorter case has less volume (closer to full when loaded) to cause potentially erratic pressures with light loads. I also feel the shorter round is easier to load into the cylinder.

There's a difference between "legal" and "allowed"...Even at a local match it is still "illegal" (against the rules) but many local clubs will "allow" someone to participate with what they have, as long as it is safe, until they decide they want to really compete.

If this is a non-sanctioned club match then the local club can handle it pretty much as they wish. If this is a sanctioned or "official" IDPA match then the shooter is warned about illegal equipment or equipment placement. If they persist after warning it is a Failure to do Right or FTDR and another warning. If they still persist, or in this case if the appendix carry position causes them to sweep themselves or others during the draw, then it is a match DQ and probably an invitation to not come back. There is usually a good reason for rules but even if the reason is just "that's the rule" you always have the option of either following the rules of not playing the game. Heck, you can even do what Bill Wilson did and go invent your own game. You might start the next "big thing"!

OK...so this Grasshopper walks in a bar and the bartender says "Hey, we have a drink named after you." and the grasshopper says "You have a drink named Bob?" So that's why I named it Bob

The Apex requires the older style sear which requires fitting. If you currently have MIM parts you will need the "kit" from APEX with the sear, pins and springs required for installation. It's not expensive at all.

I sometimes have this trouble after a reload. I notice you said you are moving while holding the gun strong hand only which is also how I do it when moving more than just a step or two. I believe my problem is I am failing to re-establish a proper grip after removing my weak hand for the reload. I get a good grip out of the holster but fail sometimes to establish the same grip after the reload.

Well first...I actually let a friend of mine do the rough grinding because I don't own a grinder. He overshot the mark a tad and was out of square. VERY ugly. I had to "save" it with the dremel but almost ran out of material and it made the lower portion more recessed than I had intended. Second, I used a french curve to find the curve of the frame and transferred it to the hammer outside the gun so I guessed at the proper location. It was supposed to be more close to flush. Third, "flush" on a 625 is a moving target. The hammer sits differently in the gun when the trigger is pulled. The nose goes deeper into the recess and the rear (lower) part rises up a bit. So you have to pick between flush at rest or flush at the end if the trigger stroke. If I do another I will mark the hammer while in the gun and shoot for flush at rest. It was a learning experience

Texture is nice, color sucks and they are way too fat for my hand. I think he had them custom made. No clue who did it.

Got the bobbed MIM hammer installed on my friend's revolver...I have no control over the "butt ugly" grips he has on his gun but the hammer works GREAT. I may try to do more.

It was all the excuse I needed

Darn....you'll have to buy another gun don't you just hate it when that happens

Thanks...that was why the grinder nearly cost me the hammer. It was no where close to square after grinding! All the squaring work was done with the dremel and I almost ran out of material. Should be able to talk to the fellow who might want to try this in his 625 tomorrow. If he wants it I will get pics of the installed hammer.

Nope...bench grinder to get it close then dremel the rest of the way. But I beleive I can do the next one with just the dremel. The grinder almost cost me the hammer! It was UGLY.

Don't rule out shooting in "competitions"...at least at the local level. Books and articles can help but they can't really "show" you how to do things or how to apply what you've learned. That comes from hands on experience which most folks never get in the traditional firing range environment. Most ranges preclude you from doing the very things that build skills in the defensive realm. Look at the IDPA website www.idpa.com and find a club close to you. Go there, introduce yourself as a new shooter wanting to learn and go from there. Some guys will be mostly BS and some will be good mentors and instructors. They all have something they can teach you even if it is only to serve as a bad example As stated above, it's only competition if you make it that. It can be pure training for you if you don't care how you finish in the match and pay more attention to how you solve the scenario. It's the best practice you can get because you will never get all you need just from practice.

For me, the main thing is to treat a big match just like a small one. Don't shoot it differently than your normally would any other match. The venue (big match atmosphere and shooting with strangers) will bump you up a notch all by its self. When I had a big match coming up I sometimes went to the range to practice things that were making me struggle but mainly I would find and shoot as many local matches as possible. I would push myself in the local matches to find my "sweet spot" between speed and accuracy. At the big match I would focus on shooting accurately first and fast second. But try do do both. Lastly...be relaxed. Shooting all tensed up will mess with your game. Talk to the guys and gals in your squad and make new friends. Have fun and if you don't want to be disappointed, don't expect too much.

Haven't tried the bobbed MIM hammer yet. Love the APEX. I also installed the XP firing pin from APEX.