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Firing pin stop


snipe

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Oh I see, I was at a local range last weekend and I overheard somebody said the flat bottom FPS was designed to help decrease the recoil of 1911's. I dont know if its true and its the first time I heard that. Thanks for the reply BTW. :cheers:

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Oh I see, I was at a local range last weekend and I overheard somebody said the flat bottom FPS was designed to help decrease the recoil of 1911's.

You should walk up while that person is talking with somebody else and then bring up the topic of spring rate... Then, walk away and do something more productive (like sit in the shade) while they talk about spring rate for the next 20 minutes.

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Hello: You need a radius or angle cut to lighten the effort to rack the slide. The square bottom makes it harder to rack the slide. I made a fixture to angle the stop and it made a big difference to the flip of the pistol. It also makes the dot on the C-More hardly move now :cheers: You may want to try some different stops to see what you like the best. Thanks, Eric

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I agree with you guys and I just thought of asking the question here to confirm it. As a simple analogy, That angled cut at the bottom of the FPS will act as a RAMP for the hammer to pass under the retracting slide. Just my Dos Centavos folks and thanks for chiming in. :cheers:

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Oh I see, I was at a local range last weekend and I overheard somebody said the flat bottom FPS was designed to help decrease the recoil of 1911's.

You should walk up while that person is talking with somebody else and then bring up the topic of spring rate... Then, walk away and do something more productive (like sit in the shade) while they talk about spring rate for the next 20 minutes.

It gets worse if you start talking about momentum with people who know something about physics (I have never taken physics, btw).

Back on topic, what do you guys cut the radius with? I'm just curious in case I ever need to replace a firing pin stop.

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One of my complaints with 1911s was the super slug slide dynamics compared to my glocks, then I learned about the different FPS profiles. I have since put a generous curve on mine (up to the FP hole) and a nice polish and it has made a huge difference. The gun is flatter and cycles faster. I was thinking of swiss cheesing the slide to improve slide dynamics on my edge but now I'm thinking it's unnecessary.

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Radius it with a file. Smooth it with 600g paper. Pretty much all that's necessary. I've tried small radius, large radius (up to FP hole), flat angle cut and stock radius. I have a little collection of them now.

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