d_striker Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 (edited) I just traded into a bunch of once fired .40 brass with the Glock bulge at the base. I've come across a good amount Glocked brass in the past, but it seemed like my Lee sizing die took enough of it out to chamber freely. This brass is bulged slightly more than what I've experienced in the past. My Lee die takes most of it out, and the brass chambers freely enough to headspace off the mouth but it's tighter at the base than what I prefer it to be. I'm a cheap skate reloader. Can I just mill some material off my shell holder to get more of the case sized? Or would milling some material off of the bottom of the die body make more sense? Or would neither of these work? Edited June 30, 2011 by d_striker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 How much brass are we talking about? If you like I could run it through my homemade press through brass sizer or pass along how to make one for yourself. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Either take him up on his offer or do one of three other things. Mill off the bottom of the die. Get an EGW U-die. Get a GRX push through die. Milling- be careful not to mill off too much or the carbide ring will crack if it makes contact. (Mine did) U-die is just an undersized lee die that is milled as well. Sizes lower. Push throughs add alot of extra work to the loading process. But many people swear by them in .40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Usually you can screw the sizer in some more - I sometimes do till I feel resistance in handle. That alone might be enough if your die is riding a bit high now - the standard rule of "till it touches, then 1/2 turn back" leaves some room unused. I also turned the bottom of the die some, that also helps. I would rather do this than use the U Die, as it puts more stress on brass, and you don't really need that .001" reduction in diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d_striker Posted July 1, 2011 Author Share Posted July 1, 2011 Usually you can screw the sizer in some more - I sometimes do till I feel resistance in handle. That alone might be enough if your die is riding a bit high now - the standard rule of "till it touches, then 1/2 turn back" leaves some room unused. I also turned the bottom of the die some, that also helps. I would rather do this than use the U Die, as it puts more stress on brass, and you don't really need that .001" reduction in diameter. How much did you turn off the die? I was thinking about .020" would do the trick. How did you turn without removing the carbide insert portion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 I just removed all the steel what was protruding beyond the carbide insert... from memory - maybe .020". In my case that, coupled with screwing the die lower, was enough to remove all the problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GACX8-aiQY&feature=youtube_gdata_player This was my solution, cost about 30$ but it is a world of difference. Back when I was shooting autos it made them feed better and the mags easier to load. At any rate I think it make the press operation smoother because you are only decapping in station 1. It is another step, but I will never go back. Since I started doing this, 15k rounds and not one failed to chamber check. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoodhazard Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 I use the GRX push through die. I don't even bother to drop test anymore because the brass passes the test unloaded. So the time saved on drop testing,harder and fluctuating handle pressure on the press, and recovering components more than equals out time running through the die. Runs through my 550 like it was new stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 U-die is just an undersized lee die that is milled as well. Sizes lower. This is one of those myths that gets repeated so often, people start to believe it (I did for a while). The EGW U-die is made by Lee, to EGW's specifications....EGW doesn't mill them, or do anything else, but sell them. From George Smith/geo (he IS EGW) himself: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23777&view=findpost&p=285205 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEH Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GACX8-aiQY&feature=youtube_gdata_player This was my solution, cost about 30$ but it is a world of difference. Back when I was shooting autos it made them feed better and the mags easier to load. At any rate I think it make the press operation smoother because you are only decapping in station 1. It is another step, but I will never go back. Since I started doing this, 15k rounds and not one failed to chamber check. Lee where did you get that press ??????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 LEE & Redding both make kits to salvage 40 S&W Glock brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GACX8-aiQY&feature=youtube_gdata_player This was my solution, cost about 30$ but it is a world of difference. Back when I was shooting autos it made them feed better and the mags easier to load. At any rate I think it make the press operation smoother because you are only decapping in station 1. It is another step, but I will never go back. Since I started doing this, 15k rounds and not one failed to chamber check. Lee where did you get that press ??????????? I made it - cost about $30. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
euxx Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 I roll-size all my brass on CasePro machine hooked to the DL550 case feeder. It cost more then push-trough setup, but it is also number of times faster. http://www.casepro100.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) My setup can do about 1,500/hour if you want to be in a rush about it. About 1,000 if you want to take your time about it. My girlfriend does all the sizing anymore so I am not exactly sure how fast it is. Always possible to just size match brass this way if time was a factor. The upside is caliber conversions cost 2$ if you have old size dies laying around - the downside if you can only use on straight walled brass - no tapered or rimed cases like 38 short or 9mm. Lee Edited July 3, 2011 by Mitch_Rapp.45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob DuBois Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 I'm a fan of the U die made by Lee. I have loaded and shot many thousands of rounds using range brass with this die. It is the cure for a tight chambered pistol using range brass. I have purchased and never used the Lee push through die. Never needed it. I have seen the U die fix feeding issues in several guns in the past. I've used it in the first station in my 550 as well as my 650 with good results. I suggest you lube cases before sizing, makes the whole process easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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