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38 super revolver


frankbray

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I just got a s&w model 627 38 super. Ive heard lots of things good and bad about this gun but decided to try it anyway. My question is what are some good accurate loads for this gun I shoot both ICORE and Bianchi and would like to try this gun for both. Ive heard that the barrel is really just a 357 not a 356 or 355.

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Well the solution is fairly simple there...get some components and load for best accuracy after achieving desired PF. I've got an oddball .38 special that shoots .355 as well as .358 for my applications. Minute of 8" circle is fine by me, but the particular gun shoots 9mm bullets very well and they reload well from speedloaders. If it's an ICORE gun I'd go for minute of X ring as B's and C's are expensive.

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Welcome to the Forums Frank. I like Clays for a powder for the 38 super round for shooting ICORE. I use the Billy 160 grain Lead Molycoat in a 358 diameter. There are other good bullet makers out there with a similar profile. Start off with a 2.5 grain charge and work up. a 2.6 to 2.7 works the best in my 38 super Revo. For Bianchi I hear you need a faster bullet so I would drop to a 130 grain jacketed. I have never shot Bianchi but Toolguy can probably set you straight on the real story. Later rdd :cheers:

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It's about time Frank.

One of my friends shoots Berry's 158 RN for ICORE. I shot his gun a few weeks ago at 50 yards, while practicing standards, and it easily held the x ring. But then again, anyone can shoot an x with a dot...LOL

Seiichi

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I have a 627. After trying .355 and .356's and getting large and inconsistent groups off a rest I almost gave up on the gun. It was suggested that I try .357 and the accuracy and consistentcy greatly improved, but the groups are still not what I'd expect off a bench.

Anyone have some suggestions for plated bullets with .358 diameter? I'd be happy to try them.

I'm a little spoiled as my S&W 625 and 952-2 shoot leetle tiny groups and I was hoping for the same thing with this gun.

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What load you shoot depends on whether you have a compensator or not. For the plain barrel you want a small charge of fast powder with a heavier bullet - 125 to 170 grain, for a comp barrel you want a heavier charge of slower powder and a light bullet - 110 to 125 grain. The main reason for this is recoil management. The comp load is close to magnum, but the large volume of gas and high pressure going through the comp tames the recoil. The non comp loads just have less recoil to begin with so are a lot more manageable in a plain barrel. For a stock barreled S&W revolver, I have found that groups get better as velocity and/or bullet weight increase. This is mostly due to the slow twist rate of the rifling, which is about 1-18. The slow target loads generally don't shoot good groups at 50 yds. in this twist rate. In general, hollow point bullets are more accurate than solid point, though I have gotten some good groups with quality cast bullets in the 158 to 180 grain weights. For Bianchi Production I'm shooting a 125 gr. Zero JHP over 5.6 gr of Bullseye for a 130 PF. in a 6" 686. It will shoot 4 to 5 inch groups at 50. My PPC 686 with a custom 1 in 10 twist barrel will shoot 2" or less at 50 with several different loads, 2 to 3 inches at 100 with a 170 gr. Sierra or 180 gr. Hornady XTP JHP. This is with 10.5 gr. of Blue Dot in a .357 Mag case.

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My gun shoots good with MG 130 gr. .356 bullets and 4.6 gr. of U-Clays out of 9mm or short colt brass.

The 160gr billy bullets and 9mm brass also shot well and is very soft.

Leonard

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It's about time Frank.

One of my friends shoots Berry's 158 RN for ICORE. I shot his gun a few weeks ago at 50 yards, while practicing standards, and it easily held the x ring. But then again, anyone can shoot an x with a dot...LOL

Seiichi

Hey Seichi, What's up? Are you shooting the west coast steel regional match at Piru. Anyway, this isnt going to be a red dot open gun. Its going to be my Iron sight. I'm coming after you chump! You'll never beat me again! LOL

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What load you shoot depends on whether you have a compensator or not. For the plain barrel you want a small charge of fast powder with a heavier bullet - 125 to 170 grain, for a comp barrel you want a heavier charge of slower powder and a light bullet - 110 to 125 grain. The main reason for this is recoil management. The comp load is close to magnum, but the large volume of gas and high pressure going through the comp tames the recoil. The non comp loads just have less recoil to begin with so are a lot more manageable in a plain barrel. For a stock barreled S&W revolver, I have found that groups get better as velocity and/or bullet weight increase. This is mostly due to the slow twist rate of the rifling, which is about 1-18. The slow target loads generally don't shoot good groups at 50 yds. in this twist rate. In general, hollow point bullets are more accurate than solid point, though I have gotten some good groups with quality cast bullets in the 158 to 180 grain weights. For Bianchi Production I'm shooting a 125 gr. Zero JHP over 5.6 gr of Bullseye for a 130 PF. in a 6" 686. It will shoot 4 to 5 inch groups at 50. My PPC 686 with a custom 1 in 10 twist barrel will shoot 2" or less at 50 with several different loads, 2 to 3 inches at 100 with a 170 gr. Sierra or 180 gr. Hornady XTP JHP. This is with 10.5 gr. of Blue Dot in a .357 Mag case.

Hey Warren thanks for the Info. I'm actually going to put your mover mount on this gun and make it my Bianchi gun. I didnt end up going to Bianchi this year I haven't been able to build my gun yet. Anyway about that custom barrel you have. Who does this kind of work that you know of. I really want to change out this barrel to .355 then 9mm, 38 super and 357 should shoot fine. I've heard that the old Douglas barrels were .355 diameter thats why they were so accurate. Who do you know still builds custom revolvers.

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My gun shoots good with MG 130 gr. .356 bullets and 4.6 gr. of U-Clays out of 9mm or short colt brass.

The 160gr billy bullets and 9mm brass also shot well and is very soft.

Leonard

Leonard,

You can shoot 9mm out of your 38 super revolver? What die are you using and what moonclips with the 9mm? What about the 38 short colt what dies and moonclips are you using that you can shoot them in a 38 super?

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I have a 627. After trying .355 and .356's and getting large and inconsistent groups off a rest I almost gave up on the gun. It was suggested that I try .357 and the accuracy and consistentcy greatly improved, but the groups are still not what I'd expect off a bench.

Anyone have some suggestions for plated bullets with .358 diameter? I'd be happy to try them.

I'm a little spoiled as my S&W 625 and 952-2 shoot leetle tiny groups and I was hoping for the same thing with this gun.

This is what I've been hearing about this gun. I guess you just have to really experiment with different loads. I figure I'd ask around first and maybe save some time.

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Hi Frank -

I build all my own stuff, so I'm not sure who else does it now. The Douglas barrel blanks I use are .357. I have recently switched over to Walther barrel blanks which are .355. They are shooting .357 jacketed bullets very accurately as well as .355 and .356. The Douglas ones I used were the 1 in 10 twist. The Douglas ones always shot good, but they only have .002 deep rifling. The Walther ones have .005 deep rifling plus are the smaller bore size, giving more versatility. The Walther ones are about 1 in 9.85 = 1 in 250mm. You might check with Cylinder and Slide about getting a gun built.

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Leonard,

You can shoot 9mm out of your 38 super revolver? What die are you using and what moonclips with the 9mm? What about the 38 short colt what dies and moonclips are you using that you can shoot them in a 38 super?

Yes I shoot 9mm “a lot” it works good but I have found Win and Fed cases to be the best and only use them, they fit standard 38 super clips fairly good, I use a 38 super U size die on them, I pulled a 357 roll crimp insert and put it in a Lee FCD as I was having problems with bullets moving with a taper crimp on the 9mm, don’t know why a taper crimp would not hold the 9mm but a roll crimp works fine.

For 38 short colt standard 38/357 dies and clips work.

If you get 38 short colt brass there is no need to use 9mm, the short colt is better with the gun.

All though I use it as my house gun and keep 9mm Fed Hydro shocks loaded in clips for that.

Leonard

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I just got a s&w model 627 38 super. Ive heard lots of things good and bad about this gun but decided to try it anyway. My question is what are some good accurate loads for this gun I shoot both ICORE and Bianchi and would like to try this gun for both. Ive heard that the barrel is really just a 357 not a 356 or 355.

I have obtained the best accuracy with the 147 gr. Berry's RN bullet designed for 9mm (0.356" diam) and either 3.6 gr. Titegroup or 3.4 gr. WST. WST burns a lot cleaner than titegroup. W-231 alos provides excellent accuracy and is clean burning.

Edited by TonyT
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Hi Frank -

I build all my own stuff, so I'm not sure who else does it now. The Douglas barrel blanks I use are .357. I have recently switched over to Walther barrel blanks which are .355. They are shooting .357 jacketed bullets very accurately as well as .355 and .356. The Douglas ones I used were the 1 in 10 twist. The Douglas ones always shot good, but they only have .002 deep rifling. The Walther ones have .005 deep rifling plus are the smaller bore size, giving more versatility. The Walther ones are about 1 in 9.85 = 1 in 250mm. You might check with Cylinder and Slide about getting a gun built.

Hi Warren, Ok I see the Lothar Walther website and I'm trying to figure out which barrel you're using. I see 2 differnet ones. The first one I see is a 9mmPara(Luger) land dia .347, grove dia .355, twist rate 9.8, price is $203.00. The second barrel I see is a .38Spec./.357Mag, land dia .346, grove dia .355, twist rate 17.7", Price $203.00. So my question is which one are you using?

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My gun shoots good with MG 130 gr. .356 bullets and 4.6 gr. of U-Clays out of 9mm or short colt brass.

The 160gr billy bullets and 9mm brass also shot well and is very soft.

Leonard

Leonard,

You can shoot 9mm out of your 38 super revolver? What die are you using and what moonclips with the 9mm? What about the 38 short colt what dies and moonclips are you using that you can shoot them in a 38 super?

I'll be at Piru for the match.

If you load short colt, you'll need 9 mm seating and crimp dies, the 38 special dies are too long.

Seiichi

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I just got a s&w model 627 38 super. Ive heard lots of things good and bad about this gun but decided to try it anyway. My question is what are some good accurate loads for this gun I shoot both ICORE and Bianchi and would like to try this gun for both. Ive heard that the barrel is really just a 357 not a 356 or 355.

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I just got a s&w model 627 38 super. Ive heard lots of things good and bad about this gun but decided to try it anyway. My question is what are some good accurate loads for this gun I shoot both ICORE and Bianchi and would like to try this gun for both. Ive heard that the barrel is really just a 357 not a 356 or 355.

I have had very good luck with Bear Creek 170 grain bullets sized to .356. I use 3.0 of titegroup and cut down 38 special cases to Super length. My Super shoots 2" groups at 50 yards if I do my job. I have also used Super cases with 356 bullets and the same powder with very good success.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Forgot to mention something in my porevious post.

I have both the S&W 686 and 627 factory versions in 38 Super. The 686 shoots 124 to 1151 gr. plated bullest with equal accuracy while the 627 has a definite preference for the 147 & 151 gr. plated bullets.

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