frankbray

With the factory barrels and twist rates you need 158-160 bullets to be accurate at 50 yards. I have 4 627's 2 in 38 super and 2 in 357mag. I've spent days, weeks and months testing every bullet, powder, primer and case for the Icore far and near. Only heavy hard cast bullets grouped at 50 yards in the 1.5 inch range. Toothguy is correct if you want to change out the barrel and twist rate you can use 125 JHP and they will group. The negative side of JHP in that the Moonclips don't drop right in the cylinder charge holes when you're speed loading. Toothguy is a Bianchi shooter no speed loading is required. Icore guys need quick and fast speed loading ability smooth round bullet profiles. Before you start tearing the factory gun apart try hard cast bullets 158-160 round nose sized to 355.

I use 4.0 of clays with a 230 bear creek moly . It made 173 power factor in my 625 at the uspsa nationals and gets about 2" groups at 25 yds. Clays is very , very clean in the revolver.

I just walked the stages looks like a really fun match. Very neat clean and organized!

Hey Patrick I forgot that point about the reduced firing pin spring. The good thing about apex pins is that they come with a reduced firing pin spring.

If you really want to have fun with a revolver just buy federal (american eagle) ammo its easy find and cheap. The primers are softer and ignite with lighter triggers. Get rid of the 15 rebound and buy an 11 lbs wolff rebound spring and replace the stock firing pin with an apex competition firing pin. These parts are cheap and will make a huge difference in a trigger pull. If you do this you'll get a 6 lbs trigger that is 100% reliable even with a stock hammer. If you really want a super light trigger about 5 lbs you'll need to reload and use federal 100 primers seated deep with an apex hammer.

I use clays its clean, cheap and easy to get. Start with about 3.0 grains and work your way up to desired power factor. Ive tried just about every powder out there and find that this is the cleanest powder for a revolver (keeps cylinder chambers clean). It's also very accurate as well. Case overall length should be about 1.300 with a 160 moly. Federal 100 primers of course, seat them deep. By the way test the bullets there are only 2 160 molys that are consistently accurate at 50 yards (yes I tried them all) I did a ton of testing this last year getting ready for IRC.

I use clays its clean, cheap and easy to get. Start with about 3.0 grains and work your way up to desired power factor. Ive tried just about every powder out there and find that this is the cleanest powder for a revolver (keeps cylinder chambers clean). It's also very accurate as well. Case overall length should be about 1.300 with a 160 moly. Federal 100 primers of course, seat them deep. By the way test the bullets there are only 2 160 molys that are consistently accurate at 50 yards (yes I tried them all) I did a ton of testing this last year getting ready for IRC.

Hey Seiichi, I cut the long colts down to .900 because they are shorter than special so they are easier to cut. I tried the short colts but they just lead up and really expand at the base. You know how much I shoot and the cases just don't hold up. By the way the next time I cut cases you can come over and help me! Lol

You can't shoot 38 super brass in a 38special but u can shoot 38 special in a super. I shoot about 50,000 round a year so ive done quite a bit of experimenting . I've found that pushing lead out of a short colt case to power factor creates leading. I'm guessing it just a little too much pressure in such a short cases. Don't get me wrong I love that case but hate to lead build up in the cylinders. When you shoot as much as I do it builds up fast. I'm finding the cases cut don't to .900 is the perfect compromise. With 38 long colt and special you really have to be more deliberate when reloading both loading and unloading (ejection). With the cases cut down I feel I have more of a margin for error. The shorter cases just seem to slip in sooner and when ejecting they fall out faster.

Get long colt and cut down to .900 (38 super) the cases will reload and extract faster. If you ever get a 38 super 627 you can use the same brass.

Bubber, my Cmore dot covers the entire x ring at 50yds so i dont really know if im centered on the black. I do find it hard to get the dot on target weak hand. As far as the Eotech goes I thought the same thing that the 1moa dot/65 moa circle reticle was too busy. Maybe those guys are using the 1MOA only. Does anyone know what those guys are using?

A friend of mine has one and I find it "to Busy" Too much stuff going on. I like just a dot. At the 50 yards I just about cover the entire X zone. Is that about what the C-more does? I like the tube sights as the C-more is notorius for being hard to get the dot in the screen weak handed with out a lot of practice. later rdd

A friend of mine has one and I find it "to Busy" Too much stuff going on. I like just a dot. At the 50 yards I just about cover the entire X zone. Is that about what the C-more does? I like the tube sights as the C-more is notorius for being hard to get the dot in the screen weak handed with out a lot of practice. later rdd

I'm getting ready to shoot the IRC in june and I'm trying to decide on a Red Dot for open. I'm using an 8MOA Cmore now. The dot on my Cmore is a bit on the large side and i'm finding it difficult to sight in at 50Yds. I've noticed that some of the top guys are using the EOTECH those things are the size of a tank. What is the advantage to this kind of sight? I see the Reticle is a 65 MOA circle and a 1 MOA dot. Has anyone used this reticle sight picture?