Peakbagr

I've only shot mine without the 'compensator'. Anyone have experience shooting the 627 with and without. I wonder if a machinist could drill some holes?

The bullet works just got in 50k of plated RN 38 cals sized to .357. My 38 Super loves them.

Hornady is generous with their time and sends replacement parts very quickly. I have a pair of new pawls and spider drive. Haven't taken the time to install them yet so I bump the shell plate each time the press cycles to get the shell plate to drop into its detent. Almost like a rhythm for me. Eventually going to have to install the two parts but with all the time I've spent with the cycling problem, really not looking forward to it. The LnL is a great press but at least on mine, I've run into its Achilles Heel.

To make a mail order worthwhile, I'd have to order a LOT, more than 5k given what I'm reading. What kills me is that I have some 1k primer bricks in the cabinet from just a few years ago with $19 and $21 stickers on them. Ouch! Looks like I can live with the 5k price I'm getting locally. Thanks, guys.

Just called my local shop as I'm running a little low on Federal small pistol primers. His prices are usually pretty good. He said $40/k but price is $30.50/k if I buy 5k. At $30 it isn't too bad, but seems REALLY high on per thousand if I buy less than 5,000.

I've shot Bulleye for years in .45, .38, .38super, .9mm and .357. For whatever reason, it is one of the most accurate powders in any of my shooters. Bullseye is the 'standard' powder for bullsye competition. The problem with Bullseye is that it is filthy. Brass, barrel, chamber, cylinder, all black and grimy. I've kept with it for a long time in spite of those issues but have been experimenting with other powders the last few years...As you mentioned, Solo 1000 and 231 as well as others.

Live in great upstate NY. Can shoot mags of any vintage with a capacity of 10 rds or fewer. To shoot high capacity magazines, they need to be pre-ban and you can get in a lot of trouble otherwise. Does anyone know how to identify S&W pre ban mags, especially those ofr 5906 ? Thanks

I'll try the second one. The first, The Bullet Works link is the same bullet I've been shooting. They are out of stock. Thanks, PB

My supply is running out and the manufacturer is backordered. Anyone suggest a place to buy 147 grain plated RN bullets, .38 cal, .357 diameter? Much appreciated. PB

The match was in upstate NY. I tried the Super Comp brass and it doesn't fit in the moonclips so am going to give it away to the next IPSC shooter I see at one of the local matches. All the other 38 Super brass I picked up will work, but I'll use those in light practice loads and will certainly keep my eye of them. They'll be shot in an N frame.

Thanks, after receiving your reply I tried a piece of the Super Comp brass. Shell plate of LnL worked fine as did the priming. I'll try the SC brass in the moonclips next. Thanks for the 'Super' advice.

Had the great benefit of shooting a match a couple of weeks ago where a lot of the shooters left their Super brass in the grass. Some of the range pickups are .38 Super Comp. I reload Remington .38 Super not the Super Comp. Will the super comp brass fit the .38 Super shell plate on my LnL and can I use my regular Super dies or do I have to toss the Super Comp brass?

I have a 627. After trying .355 and .356's and getting large and inconsistent groups off a rest I almost gave up on the gun. It was suggested that I try .357 and the accuracy and consistentcy greatly improved, but the groups are still not what I'd expect off a bench. Anyone have some suggestions for plated bullets with .358 diameter? I'd be happy to try them. I'm a little spoiled as my S&W 625 and 952-2 shoot leetle tiny groups and I was hoping for the same thing with this gun.

Thanks, guys. For almost all of it's 3+ years, I've been playing the the pawl adjustment. Tiny tweaks at a time, following the manual. Hornady's customer service is mostly very good and I had one of their guys on the phone about 18 months ago. He advised small turns and we tried it. Same result. Sometimes the tweaks work for a little while and then the timing just goes back to the way it was, always with the shellplate opening just a tad short. I know the press pretty well by now, but I'm not a machinist or super handy. Would swapping the spider gear be a big deal to do and would the press have to be dismounted from the bench? There have been times when I've considered sending the press back to Hornady for a complete tuneup, but then I'd be out of action for a couple of months plus the shipping expense, etc...so I've just put up with the problem. Would really like to get it fixed now. Regarding the spent primer tube. If I put it in the press with Indian Head shallac of JB Weld, how do I get the tube out if I need to service the press or otherwise remove the tube? When I look at the design, the press is so well made it seems the brass used primer tube insertion set up is really below the design of the press in terms of quality.

I've had a LnL for 3 1/2 years and have loaded a lot of pistol brass with it. Since I've had it, can't seem to fix a few nagging problems. About 75% of the time, when the shell plate cycles, the primer ram is slightly offcenter.( the shell plate does not come all the way around). So one of my steps is to give the shell plate a little jiggle and then it snaps right into place and I seat the primer. If I forget, then the primer can either get crushed into the bottom of the brass, or, I cycle the press thinking the primer is seated and I end up with a loaded round with no primer. I've played with the pawl adjustments, and the latest combination of small adjustments had the shell plate centering. After loading a few rounds, it was back to having to tap it into place. My other problem is the seating the brass spent primer tube. I've gone thru one of them trying to get it seated in the bottom of the press, and its replacement keeps falling out. Is there a trick to getting it to stay put and not fall out? It seems that the weight of the plastic tube exacerbates the brass tube falling out of the bottom of the press. The LnL is an awesome machine, but these issues have been driving me nuts. I just ordered a conversion kit. When winter comes around I'm going to install it and have Hornady recut my shell plates. Hope you guys can help out.

I shot a match today. I shot a revolver using mid range loads in my .38 Super. All of my brass is Remington +P. There were a lot of entrants shooting comp guns in .38 Super. Many of them left their brass and I got a chance to pick up a bunch, which is a bonanza since we seldomly see range brass at our club. Is the brass save to use in my gun? Also, many piece had different headstamps, some with starts, some with ++ and some said super comp. Is the super comp brass completely different dimension or just able to be loade at higher pressure? I'm OK tossing the brass if necessary, but would really enjoy being able to load it up for my Smith 627 revolver. thanks

Never loaded VV powders. No one carries it around here and VERY expensive. I load with Bullseye, 231, Clays and some others for various guns. My first venture with Solo1000 - fast powder, clean. Good groups off a rest during indoor range load development @ 50'. No where near the accuracy like the 9mm Smith 952 and Baer 38 Super though.

Thanks guys, Loading a bunch of the Bullet Works 147s over Solo 1000 powder. Fairly accurate and really clean burning. Gotta use the Federal Primers in the 627 or they don't go 'bang'. PB

I'm using a Hornady TC die. The case flare is not very extreme, just enough with a little more to seat the bullet and hold it for the seating die. Why would having more flare eliminate the shaving of brass? Asking to learn, not questioning your observation. Have never had this happen to me with .38, 9mm, .45auto, .45 auto rim, or my .38 super 1911.

Hoping someone might point me in the correct direction. Doing a load work up. Brand new RP brass, Bullet Works 147gr, .357 RN plated bullets. I crimp separately. As the bullet travels from the seater to the taper crimp die, the bullet enters the die easily, but then it seems to stick. A little more pressure and the bullet jumps up into the die. It feels like it's encountered something. When the bullet comes out of the die there is a smaller-that-a-human hair diameter of brass around the case, as if the die shaved this tiny little ring of brass. Any ideas as to what's going on? The cartridges slip into the test chamber and the tiny brass ring dissolves on touch, that's how thin it is. I have tried moving the seating die up and down in the press in very small increments. Nothing seems to eliminate the initial resistence of the bullet into the die nor the the what looks like a thin shaved ring of brass. What am I doing wrong? I've cleaned the die, examined it, used a wire brush and solvent inside, no changes. If I take the loaded round and run it back thru the TC die a second time, it flows in smooth, no resistence and no add'l brass shaving. Got me stumped.

Really appreciate it. I called the number and I'm on hold for a CSR. Thanks again. PB

I own a really nice Peltor Tactical 25dB headset and it's starting to malfunction. The sound shut off on one phone sporadically stops working. I located the Peltor site and send an email a couple of weeks ago - no reply. Could not locate a phone contact number and it appears their contact site is out of date. It's also geared for commercial customers. Might anyone have a contact for them? I'd inquired about returning them for service or repair. They are too nice to just throw away. Thanks

After an 18 month layoff from shooting, want to work up some loads for my S&W 627 revolver. Accurate's Solo 1000 powder was strongly recommended to me by the bullet mfg as clean and accurate. I'm having difficulty finding starting loads for this powder and wonder if any shooters here might offer some load suggestions? Looking to start very light and work my way up in small increments. Thanks, PB

Haven't seen any problems finding it here...upstate NY. I have 7 or 8 pounds and the local supplier always has some on hand.

Anyone know how to locate my messages, sent and rec'd? Looked all over the site and couldn't find. Probably hiding in plain sight but I couldn't find it. Thanks, Peakbagr