My LnL review and some Mods I made.

[98sr20ve]

So I have been loading with my LnL for a little while now. I did not want to rush to judgment on it but rather give it a fair review after some time to get acclimated to the press. For those that know me I can find something wrong with just about anything if I look hard enough. So just because I find things I dont like doesnt mean I dont like the press. The same would be said for the 550/650 if I owned them. So enough for disclaimers on with the review/mods.

First, just so you know I think the LnL with out the casefeeder is a pretty basic, easy to setup press. Most the complication on the press surrounds the casefeeder which in my opinion is not as intuitive/easy to setup up as the Dillon. Particularly the case slider. It needs to be adjusted so that it is pushing the case into the shellplate after the shellplate is not moving. Nice thing is you only have to do this adjustment once. Also, the slider V block needs to be chosen based on experience not the number in the instructions. They are easy to change and the slider adjustment also effects which V block you might prefer. Besides that issue I had an ongoing (but occasional) issue with cases from the casefeeder dropping in the tube upside down. Not even 1-100. Less then that. My Dillon did that as well but a little less often. I noticed that the casefeeder plate had some rough spots around the holes. I sanded those off and have not had a tipped case since. So issue #1 is resolved and is on par if not better then the Dillon.

Next, is a item that I consider to be a real issue with my particular LnL when loading 9mm. The cases would come down the chute and bounce up when they hit the ramp. Sometimes (1-100) they would bounce off the ram or worse barely catch the v-block and get pushed toward the shellplate but not all the way in. Its super easy to fix if you see it but I dont like watching anything but the powder drop. I tried all kinds of adjustments but nothing solved the issue. Longer cases dont have this issue because they stay up in the drop tube further. 9mm is the worst. So I designed a little shield to keep them from going anywhere but right in front of the V-block. It was simple to make and I have not had a single issue since using it. No more tipped cases, no more cases hitting the floor. Just perfect every time. Here are a couple pictures.

You can also see the plate I riveted to the case bin. Keeps the cases from falling out. I also, made a bracket to hold up the bin because the bracket on the LnL is a little flexible. Its just some flat stock I had laying around with some holes and a couple washers to space it so it just touchs the bottom of the bin. I was going to do the same for my 550 I just never did. The LnL needs it even more.

Final mod (that I can think of right now) was my shellplate was a little snappy for my taste. It was a simple fix. I took one of the bolts that hold on the casefeeder and just tapped the back side of the spring loaded ball and moved it out a very precise smidge I did it a little too much the first time so I tapped it back a little more. Shellplate still locks up solid. No more snap spilling my powder.

I am very pleased with the press now. Only mod that I felt was mandetory was the shield to keep the cases from falling. Besides that none of the stuff I fixed was a big deal. But I do prefer it with the changes. For the money saved over the 650 with all my caliber conversions I am pretty happy. The powder measure works great, priming is simple, Bushing are OK. Better in some ways, not in others. As it sits right now the LnL with these simple mods is worlds better then the 550 with its casefeeder. But, with out a casefeeder I think I would stick with a 550. I love that press. FOR ME, I just dont think the 650 is worth the money for those hyper expensive caliber conversions. For someone who wants a more gentle learning curve I would definitely recommend the 650 if they want a casefeeder. Hope this helps someone.

Edited February 23, 2011 by 98sr20ve

[Jman]

Well, I AM IMPRESSED !!! Thanks very much for your post. And in keeping with the spirit, here is an image of my super uber custom bullet tray.

Jim

[98sr20ve]

I used my Dillon Tool Holder to keep the bullets from knocking into the case slider extension. I can make yours as well. May try that. I have lots of Lee die holder tops.

[98sr20ve]

New casefeeder sheild.

PM me if anyone wants one.

[SinisterRob]

I was just going to add that I am going make a couple of your improvements as I am loading 9mm currently and am having lots of cases bounce off the subplate. I think today I'll try the shield and a little tuning of the case feeder plate.

Thanks for sharing.

[Mush from PA.]

My 9mm was bouncing also. For a fix I just slipped a business card between the drop tube and the press and slightly bent it around the tube. It works and I can see if the case is right side up. Prior I had a problem with cases comming down the drop tube inverted. I fixed that with a 3 by 5 card taped to the right side of the hole on the bin - remember the left side has the sheet steel adjustment plate.

[rsrocket1]

Final mod (that I can think of right now) was my shellplate was a little “snappy” for my taste. It was a simple fix. I took one of the bolts that hold on the casefeeder and just tapped the back side of the spring loaded ball and moved it out a very precise “smidge” I did it a little too much the first time so I tapped it back a little more. Shellplate still locks up solid. No more snap spilling my powder.

Oops.

Before you did this, did you try adjusting the advancement prawls on the bottom?

My shellplates had a little "snap" in them and sometimes didn't advance that last 1/16" which meant the primer wasn't always perfectly lined up on the backstroke and the sizing die wasn't always perfectly lined up when I pulled the handle down. After a bit of troubleshooting, I tried adjusting the prawls a little at a time, then returning them to their original position. I found that just a small twist on one prawl eliminated that "jump" or lack of advancement. The plate moved to each station in a completely controlled smooth motion.

I don't think there should be any jump in the LnL AP advancement at all. You should be able to move the handle as slow as you wish and the shellplate should be under complete control at all times.

[98sr20ve]

Final mod (that I can think of right now) was my shellplate was a little “snappy” for my taste. It was a simple fix. I took one of the bolts that hold on the casefeeder and just tapped the back side of the spring loaded ball and moved it out a very precise “smidge” I did it a little too much the first time so I tapped it back a little more. Shellplate still locks up solid. No more snap spilling my powder.

Oops.

Before you did this, did you try adjusting the advancement prawls on the bottom?

My shellplates had a little "snap" in them and sometimes didn't advance that last 1/16" which meant the primer wasn't always perfectly lined up on the backstroke and the sizing die wasn't always perfectly lined up when I pulled the handle down. After a bit of troubleshooting, I tried adjusting the prawls a little at a time, then returning them to their original position. I found that just a small twist on one prawl eliminated that "jump" or lack of advancement. The plate moved to each station in a completely controlled smooth motion.

I don't think there should be any jump in the LnL AP advancement at all. You should be able to move the handle as slow as you wish and the shellplate should be under complete control at all times.

When I first set up the press I was having some issues. Turns out the press was not indexing properly and I had to adjust one of the pawls a small amount. For month's the press has indexed perfectly. It flows smoothly from one to the next. The only jostle is at the very end of the movement when the ball is falling in the detent. Not sure if further adjustment would impact that at all. I am not saying that it was horrible with out the adjustment, but loosening the ball made it a little better. It still worked fine before the adjustment it just spilled a little powder every once in a while, now it doesn't.

[S391]

Final mod (that I can think of right now) was my shellplate was a little “snappy” for my taste. It was a simple fix. I took one of the bolts that hold on the casefeeder and just tapped the back side of the spring loaded ball and moved it out a very precise “smidge” I did it a little too much the first time so I tapped it back a little more. Shellplate still locks up solid. No more snap spilling my powder.

Oops.

Before you did this, did you try adjusting the advancement prawls on the bottom?

My shellplates had a little "snap" in them and sometimes didn't advance that last 1/16" which meant the primer wasn't always perfectly lined up on the backstroke and the sizing die wasn't always perfectly lined up when I pulled the handle down. After a bit of troubleshooting, I tried adjusting the prawls a little at a time, then returning them to their original position. I found that just a small twist on one prawl eliminated that "jump" or lack of advancement. The plate moved to each station in a completely controlled smooth motion.

I don't think there should be any jump in the LnL AP advancement at all. You should be able to move the handle as slow as you wish and the shellplate should be under complete control at all times.

I'm running into a similar situation where the shellplate will not advance that final 1/16" of an inch but the funny part is that it doesn't happen every time.... I can run several shells through that line up perfectly then it will act up for a few rounds.

I noticed that the spring that goes around the shellplate seems to have some kinks in it..... could this be an indication of something gone south or could this be the reason things have gone south?

[Jman]

First thing to check there is that the shellplate is tight. Raise the ram (lower the handle) insert the big Allen wrench through the hole in the middle of the "tool-head". This allows for a little more bite and has stayed tight. Index adjustments have zero effect if the shellplate works itself loose.

Jim

[S391]

First thing to check there is that the shellplate is tight. Raise the ram (lower the handle) insert the big Allen wrench through the hole in the middle of the "tool-head". This allows for a little more bite and has stayed tight. Index adjustments have zero effect if the shellplate works itself loose.

Jim

I tighten it often but I've never tried raising the ram first. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the tip.

Steve

[98sr20ve]

If your plate isn't advancing the last 1/16 inch adjust the indexing. I added a washer under the bolt for the shellplate. Now it never comes loose. You can see it in my pictures. Also, put a empty case in the shellplate and raise the ram the case give you something to grab with your finger to prevent the shellplate from moving.

[rsrocket1]

If your plate isn't advancing the last 1/16 inch adjust the indexing. I added a washer under the bolt for the shellplate. Now it never comes loose.

Do you mean an additional washer like a lock washer? The LnL AP with the EZject already comes with a washer that sits between the shellplate and the socket head bolt. It's seen in #9 of the instructional video. The shellplate bolt should be tightened just enough to turn the shellplate and not so tight that you need to hold the shellplate to torque down the bolt. Admittedly, sometimes I need to check the bolt tightness and sometimes retorque it after 100 or so shells (about the same time I reload the primers). If the bolt is too tight, I think it would add undue stress to the advancement mechanism. If it simply makes the downstroke and upstroke a little stiffer, then I guess it's not important.

[DWFAN]

I have to tighten mine once or twice each primer tube.. I thought about putting a rubber o-ring on it just to keep it snug, but not over tight.

[98sr20ve]

If your plate isn't advancing the last 1/16 inch adjust the indexing. I added a washer under the bolt for the shellplate. Now it never comes loose.

Do you mean an additional washer like a lock washer? The LnL AP with the EZject already comes with a washer that sits between the shellplate and the socket head bolt. It's seen in #9 of the instructional video. The shellplate bolt should be tightened just enough to turn the shellplate and not so tight that you need to hold the shellplate to torque down the bolt. Admittedly, sometimes I need to check the bolt tightness and sometimes retorque it after 100 or so shells (about the same time I reload the primers). If the bolt is too tight, I think it would add undue stress to the advancement mechanism. If it simply makes the downstroke and upstroke a little stiffer, then I guess it's not important.

Yep, I should have said "lock washer"

[S391]

First thing to check there is that the shellplate is tight. Raise the ram (lower the handle) insert the big Allen wrench through the hole in the middle of the "tool-head". This allows for a little more bite and has stayed tight. Index adjustments have zero effect if the shellplate works itself loose.

Jim

Jim, turns out my pawls were out of whack.... a few turns of an allen wrench and the press was running like a champ.

[Jman]

First thing to check there is that the shellplate is tight. Raise the ram (lower the handle) insert the big Allen wrench through the hole in the middle of the "tool-head". This allows for a little more bite and has stayed tight. Index adjustments have zero effect if the shellplate works itself loose.

Jim

Jim, turns out my pawls were out of whack.... a few turns of an allen wrench and the press was running like a champ.

A few turns??? Just to clarify in case a new LNL owner is viewing...did you mean complete turns? (cuz that'll lock mine up) Or were they just small adjustments?

[S391]

First thing to check there is that the shellplate is tight. Raise the ram (lower the handle) insert the big Allen wrench through the hole in the middle of the "tool-head". This allows for a little more bite and has stayed tight. Index adjustments have zero effect if the shellplate works itself loose.

Jim

Jim, turns out my pawls were out of whack.... a few turns of an allen wrench and the press was running like a champ.

A few turns??? Just to clarify in case a new LNL owner is viewing...did you mean complete turns? (cuz that'll lock mine up) Or were they just small adjustments?

Good catch... I went in very small increments so I don't know what the total revolutions of the wrench were.... I'm guessing less than 1 complete turn total on the right and less than .5 on the left.

[Jman]

What I thought. A solid understanding of that presses timing is a given. Sounds like you got it.

[CocoBolo]

Cure for Upside down Cases and the Dreaded Brass Rain.

I first did this on my Dillon XL650 and it worked so well that I did it to the Hornady case feeder as well. 9 mm is the worst of the wost except maybe .380. This is because the case is short and the chute coming off the case feeder is wide enough for it to swap ends. The cure is to make the chute narrower so the case cannot flip. I took the top of a Winchester Primer box cut and fashioned it into a C shape then stuck it in the chute of the case feeder. No more upside down and an end to the rainey season.

[Hans Gruber]

To cure case tipping during insertion to the shell plate, I cut a custom shoe for the case pusher using felt furniture leg pads like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Waxman-4720095N-Self-Stick-Blanket-Oatmeal/dp/B0016L0M2I/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1299016319&sr=8-6

I can now say that the case feeder works as well as I'd hoped it would.

[Jman]

Hans...can u post us a pic? Very interested. Not sure how u are doing this. Thanks!

Jim

[Hans Gruber]

I'm in the office right now so I can't post a picture, but it was fairly simple. For a while I tried the bent paperclip fashioned into a pusher technique but had very little luck.

I happened to find the felt sticky furniture leg pads in a junk drawer in my house and decided to give it a shot.

The fundamental problem with feeding the 9mm cases is that the V shaped pusher doesn't make contact with the case low enough for it to overcome the little bump formed by the retention spring. Cases end up hanging ever so slightly on the spring and then get tipped over by the high pusher.

I cut a bit of the felt pad in the shape/size of the pot metal pusher (essentially a square with the V notch cut in). I then peeled off the self-adhesive backer and simply affixed the felt pad to the bottom of the pusher. This extends the pusher down to the transport carriage surface providing a lower axis of pressure on the case allowing it to scoot the case over the spring without tipping it over. The felt portion of the pad keeps the shoe from rubbing on the carriage so it operates smoothly while maintaining contact. I suspect that I'll have to replace it at some point as the felt wears, but it's going strong for about 500 rounds of 9mm so far.

If you still need photos maybe I can rustle some up tonight.

Cheers!

[Jman]

I gotcha now. Clever. Thanks!

[98sr20ve]

I just attached a felt pad to the bottom of the V block, ending right at the notch of the V. The tips of the V extend above the shellplate so you don't want it there. But WOW, the case now slides smooth as silk. I was not getting very many tipped cases at all but this is a improvement with out a doubt for 9mm.