Left Handed Revolver Shooting in IDPA

[denn1911]

Hi Group,

I tried the search function but didn't find what I was looking for. I'm left handed and currently compete in IDPA in CDP, ESP and SSP. I'd really like to start shooting a revolver competitively. Are there resources for lefty's to learn how to be competitive with the wheel gun? Could you recommend and/or point me in the right direction for a quality 6-Shot revolver and related accessories? I do plan on reloading. My first thought was a 4" S&W 686, but I am very open to everyone's opinions.

Thanks in advance,

Dennis

[CRDB]

You need to put a shout out to Brewski (left hand revolver shooter) on this forum, try a Ruger GP-100.

[AzShooter]

A good choice would be a 625 S&W with a 4 inch barrel or a 686 with a 4 inch or any K frame Smith. I like having adjustable sights but a good starting gun is a Model 10. You can get them from J&G in Prescott Az for around $200.

Then you need some full moom clips for the 625. You can get about 100 for $30. from Ranch Products.com or pick up Jetloaders from Brownells or Safariland Comp IIIs for the K frame or L frames.

[Wideload]

If you are already shooting .45acp in CDP, and if you reload, you probably will want to consider a S&W 625.

If you standardize on 230 grain round noses, you can use the same load for your revo and cdp gun.

[Carmoney]

A lefty, huh?

Sounds to me like it's time to visit www.griffinshooting.com! The speed reload video demonstrates that lefties are at no disadvantage whatsoever.

In addition to IDPA, be sure to keep your eyes open for USPSA and ICORE matches in your area.

Good luck!

Edited November 22, 2010 by Carmoney

[denn1911]

Thank you for the replies with the great info. Please keep it coming. In the meantime, I'll continue reading and researching.

[Brewski]

Since I have medium/ small hands I need to use a “thumb through the frame” strong-hand reload/ weak hand gun control method. Here’s how I do it:

Step 1: The Hand Shift

• As soon as I fire the last shot, I begin pulling the revo back toward my chest – not all the way, but about 6-8 inches back and dropping it 4-6 inches down;

• On my strong hand (left), my finger comes off the trigger and goes straight out on the frame right above the trigger;

• The thumb of my strong hand comes over the top of the grip and goes on the cylinder release;

• My support hand (right) comes off the grip where it has been wrapped around my strong hand, and moves forward on the gun;

• The pinkie and ring finger of my support hand are now on the bottom of the trigger guard, my middle finger is in the curve where the trigger guard meets the frame (it’s like they made it for your finger!) and my index finger is in front of the frame directly under the extractor rod/ extractor rod shroud and my thumb on the cylinder- about top center.

• All these actions are being done at the same time. Written out as separate steps makes it seem like a long process, but it takes less than a second. Throughout this entire step I retain positive control of the gun with the three fingers of my strong hand on the grip – they never shift during this step. That changes in the next step.

Step 2: The Ejection

• I push the cylinder release forward with my strong hand thumb while using my weak hand thumb to push open the cylinder. Note that here is where a GP-100 cylinder release is superior for lefties - by being able to push the Ruger release straight in you have a balance of opposing forces as you push straight across with your other thumb, thus not moving the gun laterally.

• As the cylinder comes open, I follow it with my thumb, inserting the thumb through the frame opening between the cylinder and the frame until my thumb is all the way through the frame window, the gun is now resting on the web of my weak (right) hand while my weak hand thumb is pressing on the front of the now open crane holding it fully open (which will be critical when you try and jam some bullets in there!).

• While I’m doing the two steps above simultaneously, I’m also rotating the revo 90 degrees on it’s vertical axis, allowing the gun to rotate of it’s own accord with the muzzle moving from parallel to the ground to pointing fairly much straight up past. As my thumb is going through the frame window, I’m releasing the three fingers of my strong hand that I’ve used to control the gun up until now and dropping my strong hand toward my speedloaders – the gun rotating around the pivot point where the frame contacts the web of my weak hand and control of the gun is now in my weak hand.

• At this point I actually raise the gun up about 6 inches or so to be able to see across the cylinder face (it is pointing almost straight down toward the ground) so I can visually confirm that I get a positive ejection of all six cases.

• To eject the cases, I ensure that the cylinder is fully open – my thumb is pushing on the top of the crane or against the side of the cylinder…or you can rotate the gun slightly counterclockwise on it’s horizontal axis and let the weight of the cylinder help keep it open (now that I think about it, I tend to do both). My opposing pressure point for controlling the gun with my weak hand is from my pinkie and maybe my ring finger pressing against the trigger guard.

• My index finger is now positioned directly above the end of the ejector rod. I simply push down on the rod with a firm push. I have never had an ejection problem using this method – even with a split case in a chamber. Some folks like to whack the hell out of the ejector rod – more power to them, but if you are running a clean burning load and you cylinder chambers are in spec, I don’t see the need.

OK – that is the end of part 1 . I need to go clean the kitchen – I’ll try to get part 2: The Reload, up asap.

[Brewski]

Part 2: The Reload

Step 3: Charging the revo

• Now I’m standing there with my revo in front of my face – maybe 12-14 inches away – and I’ve visually confirmed I’ve dumped all six cases. At this point, I don’t multitask – I let the gun stay there while I find a speedloader with my strong hand, concentrating on finding the loader (I do it by feel – I’m not looking down at the loaders) and positioning my hand on the loader knob (I use cut down Comp 3s) so I can manipulate the loader properly when I bring it to the cylinder.

• Now I go back to multitasking. I rotate the revo about 140-150 degrees so that the muzzle is pointing at the ground in front of me at about a 30 degree angle. Simultaneously I’m lowering the gun so the butt of the grip is around my belly button.

• At the same time, I’m pulling the loader out of it’s holder and moving it toward the cylinder opening. My vision is now focused on the charge hole openings in the cylinder – I pick up the loader moving into my peripheral vision and begin to adjust/ rotate the loader so that the rounds will line up with the charge holes (that’s what I call them) and I visually follow and confirm that the rounds go into the cylinder chambers completely.

o Lots of good discussion on loader manipulation on this forum by folks who are a lot smoother than I am – do a search to see what folks do.

Step 4: Getting back on Target

• Now that the gun is charged, I need to close the cylinder and get the gun up on target – I do these operations simultaneously. At this point the loader has sprung out of the way, and I move my strong back to the grip, positioning my three grip fingers and my thumb in their final grip position while my trigger finger is extended alongside the still open cylinder. Control of the gun has now shifted back to my strong hand.

• As soon as my strong hand has control I begin withdrawing my weak hand thumb from the frame window and at the same time positioning my weak hand ring and middle finger on the side of the cylinder. Once my thumb is clear, I use those two fingers to close the cylinder. My weak hand now moves back to support hand position on the grip.

• At the same time I’m closing the cylinder, I’ve shifted my vision to target and am bring the gun up to firing position. My last hand movement is to bring my strong hand index finger back on the trigger.

• Assuming all has gone as described – which it almost never does – just as my arms get fully extended and my finger settles on the trigger, the sights align on target, the gun goes boom and I roll on to a stunning match victory. Or not .

Disclaimer – This is my experience shooting SSR in IDPA the last three years or so. I’ve shot a couple of ICORE and USPSA matches, but still using basically an SSR gun (i.e. a 4 inch gun in .38 SPL) and always with speedloaders. I am by no means an expert. I’ve learned a tremendous amount from watching/ listening to Dean Brevit and Tom Becker about “The Reload”. Find the technique you are comfortable with (which will certainly differ from mine and will likely continue to evolve as you evolve as a revo shooter) and practice and then practice some more.

[Forrest Halley]

I vote Matt Griffin does a speed loader reload video and posts it. Not trying to be a work maker, but his moonclip reload is genius.

[No.343]

I vote Matt Griffin does a speed loader reload video and posts it. Not trying to be a work maker, but his moonclip reload is genius.

His 1.37 second reload was on his website last weekend.

[EEH]

A lefty, huh?

Sounds to me like it's time to visit www.griffinshooting.com! The speed reload video demonstrates that lefties are at no disadvantage whatsoever.

In addition to IDPA, be sure to keep your eyes open for USPSA and ICORE matches in your area.

Good luck!

Mike,,you forgot to tell him he needs a BIG straw hat for lefty--www.griffinshooting.com

[Carmoney]

Nah, that gimmick has already been done.

Maybe a batman mask and cape?

[Forrest Halley]

I vote Matt Griffin does a speed loader reload video and posts it. Not trying to be a work maker, but his moonclip reload is genius.

His 1.37 second reload was on his website last weekend.

SPEED Loader not moon clips.....the plastic thingy with springs in it.

I was so impressed by his technique that I tried it during the WHO portion of my practice today. Works well, but I dont think I'll switch sides.

[No.343]

You'd think I would know the difference between a moon clip and a speed loader by now. I'm going to make some index cards and study.

[John Z Sr]

Part 2: The Reload

Step 3: Charging the revo

• Now I’m standing there with my revo in front of my face – maybe 12-14 inches away – and I’ve visually confirmed I’ve dumped all six cases. At this point, I don’t multitask – I let the gun stay there while I find a speedloader with my strong hand, concentrating on finding the loader (I do it by feel – I’m not looking down at the loaders) and positioning my hand on the loader knob (I use cut down Comp 3s) so I can manipulate the loader properly when I bring it to the cylinder.

• Now I go back to multitasking. I rotate the revo about 140-150 degrees so that the muzzle is pointing at the ground in front of me at about a 30 degree angle. Simultaneously I’m lowering the gun so the butt of the grip is around my belly button.

• At the same time, I’m pulling the loader out of it’s holder and moving it toward the cylinder opening. My vision is now focused on the charge hole openings in the cylinder – I pick up the loader moving into my peripheral vision and begin to adjust/ rotate the loader so that the rounds will line up with the charge holes (that’s what I call them) and I visually follow and confirm that the rounds go into the cylinder chambers completely.

o Lots of good discussion on loader manipulation on this forum by folks who are a lot smoother than I am – do a search to see what folks do.

Step 4: Getting back on Target

• Now that the gun is charged, I need to close the cylinder and get the gun up on target – I do these operations simultaneously. At this point the loader has sprung out of the way, and I move my strong back to the grip, positioning my three grip fingers and my thumb in their final grip position while my trigger finger is extended alongside the still open cylinder. Control of the gun has now shifted back to my strong hand.

• As soon as my strong hand has control I begin withdrawing my weak hand thumb from the frame window and at the same time positioning my weak hand ring and middle finger on the side of the cylinder. Once my thumb is clear, I use those two fingers to close the cylinder. My weak hand now moves back to support hand position on the grip.

• At the same time I’m closing the cylinder, I’ve shifted my vision to target and am bring the gun up to firing position. My last hand movement is to bring my strong hand index finger back on the trigger.

• Assuming all has gone as described – which it almost never does – just as my arms get fully extended and my finger settles on the trigger, the sights align on target, the gun goes boom and I roll on to a stunning match victory. Or not .

Disclaimer – This is my experience shooting SSR in IDPA the last three years or so. I’ve shot a couple of ICORE and USPSA matches, but still using basically an SSR gun (i.e. a 4 inch gun in .38 SPL) and always with speedloaders. I am by no means an expert. I’ve learned a tremendous amount from watching/ listening to Dean Brevit and Tom Becker about “The Reload”. Find the technique you are comfortable with (which will certainly differ from mine and will likely continue to evolve as you evolve as a revo shooter) and practice and then practice some more.

Nicely done Will, but with all that, why not just learn to shoot regular hand like the rest of us ?

[denn1911]

Wow, thank you for the great posts! I really appreciate it.

For a two-hand hold, is it recommended to wrap your right thumb over your left? Or thumbs on the same side like a pistol?

[wurm]

This thread is not helping me to NOT spend money on a revolver. I keep telling myself that a lefty just can run one well enough. I'm going to pretend I didn't see that video

Thanks for the description Brewski. That's why I love this site. I don't even have to ask my questions. There's almost always someone out there thinking the same thing as me!