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Heavy Rifle?


olp73

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Hi Everyone

This summer I bought my first rifle and I went with a 17"custom rifle with rifle length gas that has all the bells and whistles. The down side of the story is that this is my first rifle and I had very little experience from before and therefore I had to trust everybody else's advice. Basically I told the "gunsmith": I won't it as short and soft as possible, you decide!"

The rifle is beautiful, but I have found out (I think) after trying a couple of 16" short gas JP eliminator compensated carbines, that it is too heavy for me. I shot a lot better with any of them. The fact that my rifle has a softer feel is secondary, I just can't steady the rifle for very long.

I have gone through the whole setup looking for ways to lighten it up and I found ONE part, the charging handle is made of steel, :) l'll switch it out, but it isn't going to do that much of a difference. The rifle is1 inch longer than a typical carbine so it has to be the barrel profile then? Right?

Is it a difficult and expensive task for a gunsmith to take the barrel down to a lighter profile? What dimensions are considered light? What do you guys use? Are there any downsides to this that I am not aware of? Like forexample; a pensile barrel will get hot and last shorter and/or groups will open up when hot? I am new to this, please school me!!

I am open to any suggestions, EVEN LETING IT BE AS IS, AND JUST START TRAINING. roflol.gif

Edited by olp73
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The first thing I would do is measure the barrel diameter under the handguard. The diameter measurement will determine if you need to have the barrel turned down. Don't worry about the recoil. A good compensator will eliminate the recoil.

What rifle scope are you using and what type of handguard are you using?

Erik

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The first thing I would do is measure the barrel diameter under the handguard. The diameter measurement will determine if you need to have the barrel turned down. Don't worry about the recoil. A good compensator will eliminate the recoil.

What rifle scope are you using and what type of handguard are you using?

Erik

Scope: trijicon tr24, larue 139E

Handguard: YHM Customizable Free Float

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I would check the barrel diameter and look into a carbon fiber hand guard. The handguard will knock off quite a bit of weight. I had my DPMS turned down to .750 under the handguard and little less(I can't remember the diameter) forward of the gas block and with the carbon fiber hand guard its not much heavier than a full size ar15. I am running a 21.5" barrel that shoots really well with 168s. I change out the scope and shoot long range with it quite often.

I had Benny Hill with triangle shooting sports do the work on mine.

I would leave the steel charging handle its stronger than the aluminum one.

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The Trijicon is a very liight scope so +1 there.

Can you post a link to that handguard? You may be able to have it drilled and milled to loose some weight. You could also look at the 12 oz 15" handguard that LOKI sells. Carbon fiber may also be an option.

You can have someone with a mill make some holes in the base and rings of that LaRye mount to lighten it up. I intend to do that after the Ozark match.

I am no gunsmith so use this next info to an experienced barrel manufacturer and ask them their opinion. I have read that turning down a barrel or even fluting it after it's built can effect accuracy. I'd call Satern and ask what they can or will do for you.

Erik was right on the comp. If you want the best get a Rolling Thunder or SJC. If you want something effective and light weight check out Nordics comps.

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The Trijicon is a very liight scope so +1 there.

Can you post a link to that handguard? You may be able to have it drilled and milled to loose some weight. You could also look at the 12 oz 15" handguard that LOKI sells. Carbon fiber may also be an option.

You can have someone with a mill make some holes in the base and rings of that LaRye mount to lighten it up. I intend to do that after the Ozark match.

I am no gunsmith so use this next info to an experienced barrel manufacturer and ask them their opinion. I have read that turning down a barrel or even fluting it after it's built can effect accuracy. I'd call Satern and ask what they can or will do for you.

Erik was right on the comp. If you want the best get a Rolling Thunder or SJC. If you want something effective and light weight check out Nordics comps.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21647/Product/AR_15_CUSTOMIZABLE_FREE_FLOAT_TUBE

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I'd go with 'Let it be and start training'. What is the weight of your heavy rifle and what is the weight of one of the borrowed rifles that you shot well? Same ammo and same amount of ammo in the mag?

All the recomennded and somewhat expensive changes will buy you maybe 2 pounds?

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I'd go with 'Let it be and start training'. What is the weight of your heavy rifle and what is the weight of one of the borrowed rifles that you shot well? Same ammo and same amount of ammo in the mag?

All the recomennded and somewhat expensive changes will buy you maybe 2 pounds?

+1

Those are decent. I used to have a carbine length on my practice rifle. There is definateyl room to shave some weight off of one of those becaseu they are pretty solid all the way around. Lots of aluminum that could be drilled away.

Do you run any rails? There are options out there that utilize the holes in the tube for your sling attachment point instead of an entire rail section.

If you have the rifle length at 14.6 oz you can shave a few ounces with another manufacturers tube. You can even save weight and add length.

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I had the same problem with my DPMS with a 20" SS bull barrel. I changed the barrel out to a Daniel Defense 1/7 twist 16" M4 profile barrel with a Miculek comp and had a buddy mill slots in my solid aluminum handguard. Changed the whole feel of the gun and is now very easy to use. Shoots very well out to 200 yards.

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I agree with check the bbl diameter under the handguards. I recently built a new upper and it was heavier than my liking. The bbl was .900 under the handguard. I sent the bbl off to ADCO and had them turn it to .750 under the handguards ($65.00) and it is much improved. It may be only a 1-2 pound differance but out in front of the reciever it felt like more. Accuracy is unchanged from prior to turning, no stringing or POI change when hot.

A carbon fiber handguard (Such as PRI makes) will also shed a few ounces, The YH customizable is not that heavy unless its loaded down with rails, but it is still heavier than the PRI. The PRI is costly.

Keep the steel charge handle, as it is so far behind the handguard you will never be able to tell a weight differance in that part.

This next recomendation may sound contradictory, but if you are running a light colapsible stock, it may benefit you to actually change to a heavier rifle type stock. For me a bit of weight in the back also makes the gun feel very light and transitions well even though the stock I use (Magpul PRS)is heavy by comparison. Many guys who have tried my rifle are surprised how light it feels when shooting it.

By turning down the bbl and adding a heavier stock you might end up with a gun of the same weight, but it will not feel the same at all.

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The gun should weigh about 7 lbs w/o scope. No sense haveing weight with your accuracy.

The Barrel measure 0.75" under the handguard. One profile all the way. Is this considered a heavy barrel? If so, have low can you go. I am sure there are some kinds of standard here? I see that a lot of JPs are 0.65".

This next recomendation may sound contradictory, but if you are running a light colapsible stock, it may benefit you to actually change to a heavier rifle typestock.

Actually it makes perfect sense to me, that's why I swapped the Magpul CTR for a UBR. It helped, but still there is too much weight in the front.

Yesterday when I measured the barrel I held and aimed the rifle without the handguard on, and even though the handguard feels really light in the hand the rifle actually felt lighter.

........today I am borrowing a scale!!

Edited by olp73
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