Glock NY Trigger Spring

[assaulter]

Does anyone remove the spring inside the plastic NY Trigger housing. Will the Earth stop rotating? Floods? Pestilence? Malfunctions?

[mtguy]

Does anyone remove the spring inside the plastic NY Trigger housing. Will the Earth stop rotating? Floods? Pestilence? Malfunctions?

The original NY trigger piece did not have the coil spring.

I use the green NY trigger without the spring along with a 3.5# connector, gives a good snappy trigger pull without going to light for a carry gun.

Edited August 18, 2010 by mtguy

[assaulter]

Interesting. I was checking out a friends duty gun a few weeks ago and noticed this. He had been in a shooting and this was his temporary replacement. Even though I had been to the armorors course, I didn't know what to tell him, other than he should get it replaced. But, the trigger was much better than having the spring inside.

[Duane Thomas]

The original NY trigger piece did not have the coil spring.

True. It had a piece of spring steel instead. So, the fact the original New York Trigger (and New York Trigger Plus, for that matter) did not have a coil spring doesn't mean it's okay to pull out the coil spring.

[Duane Thomas]

Here are the four New York Trigger modules that have ever existed. Top left, the original New York Trigger (black with spring steel insert), top right the New York Trigger Plus (white with spring steel insert), bottom left the NY-1 (OD green with coil spring) that replaced the New York Trigger, and bottom right the NY-2 (orange with coil spring) that replaced the New York Trigger Plus. Also shown is the trigger spring they replace (center).

[jbullgpd]

The reason they went with the coil spring instead of the spring steel was reliability. It was wearing out, and although it adds to the trigger weight, it also helps reset the trigger. Without the coil spring, you are depending on the polymer part to spring back and reset the trigger, could be disastrous, and obviously not recommended by Glock.

[uno5885]

I have been using the New York #1 without the spring for about 8 years. Every year I put a new one in but I have had no problems.

[MARKAVELI]

I have a glock27 (baby) curious on their internal parts and functions! What is the reasons for you all changing your trigger modules??

[Duane Thomas]

We don't change the trigger module per se - the "trigger module" being the entire vaguely triangular part that holds the connector, trigger spring, etc. We change the "connector", a piece of metal that runs diagonally across the outside of the trigger module and controls, to a large extent, the weight of trigger pulls, from a factory Glock "5.5 pound" connector to a factory Glock "4.5 pound" connector or equivalent aftermarket part. (Glock's competition oriented models come with the 4.5 pound connector as factory stock.) Also we like to change out the factory firing pin spring for a part that doesn't require as much pressure to cock the firing pin, which also does its bit to lessen trigger pulls. Also we're big into slicking up the contact surfaces on the trigger components, though that's mostly to get rid of grit and hitchiness in the trigger stroke more so than to actually lessen the pull weight. We go through all this to have trigger pulls that allow us to shoot with a better combination of speed with accuracy.

[MARKAVELI]

Is it safe for your personal carry or as a duty weapon? Other then shooting competition

[jbullgpd]

Safe is kind of hard thing to judge. Will these things make it go off on its own, no. Will these things, done correctly, interfere with any of glock's safety systems, no. Could some of these things make the gun less reliable, maybe. I see you mention duty gun so I am assuming you work as an LEO in some fashion possibly. In that case most agencies will not allow aftermarket parts on a gun, will limit their use, or will mandate they be installed by a department or factory armorer. Then you get into the issue of liability. If used in a shoot, even if its a "good" shoot, a defense attorney could turn these things against you after they have the gun inspected by an "expert" witness to say you modified the gun to make it have a lower trigger pull and turn it into you were just itching to shoot someone. Not saying they are right, just saying defense attorney's will turn a mountain into a mole hill for a buck. Just playing devil's advocate here, having worked in that world for quite awhile. Which is why most departments will only allow stock parts on a gun so anything that has to do with the gun itself is turned on the manufacturer and not the department. Again not saying its right, but most of the time that is the way it is.

[MARKAVELI]

Safe is kind of hard thing to judge. Will these things make it go off on its own, no. Will these things, done correctly, interfere with any of glock's safety systems, no. Could some of these things make the gun less reliable, maybe. I see you mention duty gun so I am assuming you work as an LEO in some fashion possibly. In that case most agencies will not allow aftermarket parts on a gun, will limit their use, or will mandate they be installed by a department or factory armorer. Then you get into the issue of liability. If used in a shoot, even if its a "good" shoot, a defense attorney could turn these things against you after they have the gun inspected by an "expert" witness to say you modified the gun to make it have a lower trigger pull and turn it into you were just itching to shoot someone. Not saying they are right, just saying defense attorney's will turn a mountain into a mole hill for a buck. Just playing devil's advocate here, having worked in that world for quite awhile. Which is why most departments will only allow stock parts on a gun so anything that has to do with the gun itself is turned on the manufacturer and not the department. Again not saying its right, but most of the time that is the way it is.

I see what your saying! Thanks jb was just trying a economic way to save money but it sound like I would be paying a higher price trying to do something like that! But if it was a stock glock it would be fine right?

[jbullgpd]

Yep stock is your best bet for duty, buy some ammo with that money and just get some more trigger time. Stock can still rock.

[Religious Shooter]

Just wanted an update on this. Anybody else use the green NY trigger without the coil spring? How reliable and durable has it been?

I've tried the green NY with the coil spring, a 3.5lb connector with a Wolf XP striker spring and it was just too heavy for me. Taking out the coil spring makes it manageable.

I've had the stock type spring break on me. I've seen others that have had their springs break on them. For my purpose I want more reliability than the stock spring.

Is the green NY trigger without the coil spring more durable than the standard OEM trigger spring?

[Stician]

How many rounds did it take for your stock spring to fail?

[OrigamiAK]

Is the green NY trigger without the coil spring more durable than the standard OEM trigger spring?

I don't know, but I'd sure be afraid to use the NY spring with the coil removed in any gun or circumstance that I considered consequential.

It might be worth working with the NY1 leaving the spring intact. I know I made a ton of progress a few years ago learning to run it well. I didn't stick with it (I do shoot a lighter trigger faster and more accurately.) But my trigger control definitely leveled up from the effort.

Edited November 15, 2013 by OrigamiAK

[Religious Shooter]

How many rounds did it take for your stock spring to fail?

I couldn't tell you. But it's the #1 failure that I've seen and experienced with the Glock. #2 would be pins breaking. #3 would be kabooms.

Never seen or heard of any NY failures.

[JBP55]

How many rounds did it take for your stock spring to fail?

I couldn't tell you. But it's the #1 failure that I've seen and experienced with the Glock. #2 would be pins breaking. #3 would be kabooms.

Never seen or heard of any NY failures.

I have put far more than 100,000 factory rounds downrange with zero failures from Glocks. One G17 has fired 50,000 flawless rounds.

I do believe in preventative maintenance.

Edited November 16, 2013 by JBP55

[Cebuano Bruin]

Hello everyone, long time lurker here. I think I finally found a thread where I can contribute!

I have tried using the NY1 spring with the coil removed, and strongly recommend against it. In my experience it sometimes fails to push the trigger bar back up from the fired position. This may cause the rear of the trigger bar to skip off or simply not catch the striker's foot when chambering a round. The firing pin safety should prevent the gun from discharging, but even then you end up with a gun that won't fire when you pull the trigger.

With the coil-less NY1 spring installed and the firing pin safety removed, I have tried letting the slide go forward on a chamber with a primed empty shell. More than once, I have managed to make the gun set the primer off without touching the trigger.

The rear of the trigger bar does pivot up on it's own if you let the slide forward with the trigger held to the rear, so you can prevent the above from happening. (Note: this also means that the gun can fire normally even with a broken trigger spring.) However, it's probably not a good idea to make a habit of keeping your finger on the trigger when chambering your gun!

Hope this helps.


Miguel