Pat Miles Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 I decided it was a convenient time to put a new timing belt on my 2000 Tacoma V-6 4x4. I'll be replacing the water pump and idler pulleys also. I've got most of the front of the motor off but the vibration dampener/crankshaft pulley bolt won't budge. No way to jam the pulley that I can see. Breaker bar doesn't budge it. Would rather not have to apply heat but.... What say the pros? Thanks, Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodownzero Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 Will a harmonic balancer puller not work on your truck? I'd contact MemphisMechanic. I believe he's a Toyota master tech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLM Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 (edited) Putting a breaker bar on it just turns the engine over, yes? Get yourself an impact wrench, air or a quality electric. That's all I've ever used on harmonic balancer bolts. The bolt will come right out. Edited July 28, 2010 by SLM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted July 28, 2010 Author Share Posted July 28, 2010 Will a harmonic balancer puller not work on your truck? I'd contact MemphisMechanic. I believe he's a Toyota master tech. Need to get the bolt out first. Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodownzero Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 Will a harmonic balancer puller not work on your truck? I'd contact MemphisMechanic. I believe he's a Toyota master tech. Need to get the bolt out first. Pat I didn't read closely enough. You're definitely going to need a good impact wrench to get that bolt out. They're usually very tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLM Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 Will a harmonic balancer puller not work on your truck? I'd contact MemphisMechanic. I believe he's a Toyota master tech. Need to get the bolt out first. Pat I didn't read closely enough. You're definitely going to need a good impact wrench to get that bolt out. They're usually very tight. See post #3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodownzero Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 Will a harmonic balancer puller not work on your truck? I'd contact MemphisMechanic. I believe he's a Toyota master tech. Need to get the bolt out first. Pat I didn't read closely enough. You're definitely going to need a good impact wrench to get that bolt out. They're usually very tight. See post #3 I saw that post already, I was just seconding the point. My weapon of choice is an IR 2135TI, although I'm sure there's something even better out there now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blind bat Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 Impact wrench I'd definitely the way to go. That said, I did a timing belt on an old Mazda pickup years ago. I was in the same predicament as you. A mechanic friend of mine suggested putting the breaker on the crank nut and resting it on the steering box which was right in line with the crank pulley then tap the starter. It worked like a champ. Of course that's an apples vs. oranges type thing so your mileage may vary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boz1911 Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 Without a quality impact wrench, the only other way will be to lock the flywheel in position while you loosen the bolt. You should have a removable dust shield of some type in front of the flywheel. Be careful not to break any teeth off the flywheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 Pat, I thought it had a manual transmission? If so, slap it in gear, crank the parking brake and you should be set! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted July 28, 2010 Author Share Posted July 28, 2010 Thanks all, Tried most of your suggestions before I posted here. Looking for the magic bullet I guess. I have a 3/4" ratchet set that will get used today. This bolt is tight. I put a timing belt on my sons Accord two years ago. Had to use a heat wrench in the end. :devil:I have an IR 1/2" impact but my wimpy compressor just doesn't have enough PSI for the bolt. Might be a good time to buy that big compressor I've been wanting. Then I can look for a small media blast cabinet too! Bart, Yeah it's a 5 speeder. Tried putting it in reverse with the parking brake set tight. Ugh! Out comes the 3/4" ratchet! Going to have a BIG bowl of Wheaties! CYa, Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 5' extension? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 5' extension? XRE it's called a cheater pipe and the longer the better, and in extreme cases you whack it with a 10# shop hammer while holding tension on it. My toyota has a steel timining chain and it should go to about 180K with no problem. I had honda's that had the rubber band timing chain that had to be changed every 50K carp the spark plugs last 100K that's just stupid. I guess one of dem sumo wrestlers put that one in, and if it is really tight better tie a chain around motor to the frame so you don't rip the rubber motor mounts.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AR Gunner Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 "Awww, come on guys, it's so simple. Maybe you need a refresher course. It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State. -- Fletch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRBean Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 when I worked for toyota myself and all the other mechanics used chain wrenches to hold the crank pulley and used a large breaker bar on the bolt. the chain wrench consists of a 2ft breaker bar with teeth on the end and a 2 ft section of chain. The chain looks like motocycle drive chain. You wrap the chain around the pulley lock it into notches on the bar and when you apply pressure the teeth on the bar grab the pulley. You should be able to pick one up at any automotive tool store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted July 28, 2010 Author Share Posted July 28, 2010 "Awww, come on guys, it's so simple. Maybe you need a refresher course. It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State. -- Fletch Yeah, that's it! Now it's all making sense... or is it nonsense. CYa, Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted July 28, 2010 Author Share Posted July 28, 2010 when I worked for toyota myself and all the other mechanics used chain wrenches to hold the crank pulley and used a large breaker bar on the bolt. the chain wrench consists of a 2ft breaker bar with teeth on the end and a 2 ft section of chain. The chain looks like motocycle drive chain. You wrap the chain around the pulley lock it into notches on the bar and when you apply pressure the teeth on the bar grab the pulley. You should be able to pick one up at any automotive tool store. Wouldn't the chain links scar the ribbed belt slots? No flat areas on my pulley. Thanks, Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRBean Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 The chain doesn't leave any marks but the teeth on the bar will leave a few small ones. A few sweeps with a file takes care of them though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Gundry Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 From an import specialist - JRBean has it absolutely correct. + = success. Even the best impact wrench may not, or probably won't, help too much, even if you have the room for it in front of the crank pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted July 29, 2010 Author Share Posted July 29, 2010 Thanks for the info gents. Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted July 29, 2010 Author Share Posted July 29, 2010 (edited) Bolt is OUT! I was told by a trusted source, Eric Davis, that Toyota uses a thread locker on this bolt. Knowing this a bit of heat was applied. My 3/4" ratchet with a 19mm socket was put on the bolt with the handle resting on the drivers side frame rail. I hit the starter once and PRESTO it was loose. Now to build a puller which won't be too much of a problem. My contact at the local Toyota dealership is on vacation this week so Monday I'll pick up the parts needed to complete this job. Take care, Pat Edited July 29, 2010 by whatmeworry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blind bat Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 Whooo hooo! Congrats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Gundry Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 You shouldn't need a puller - it is not a tapered fit - just a straight shaft with an index. It should walk off with careful and even prying side to side / around the circumference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted July 30, 2010 Author Share Posted July 30, 2010 You shouldn't need a puller - it is not a tapered fit - just a straight shaft with an index. It should walk off with careful and even prying side to side / around the circumference. I wish that had been the case. As it turned out some surface rust had accumulated between the crank snout and the pulley cluster. Damn thing fought me every inch of the way. It's off and will be cleaned up with some crocus cloth along with the snout before the go back together. Now I'm trying to figure out how to compress the tensioner pulley. Found the 10mm hex lock bolt and loosened it. I'll look closer tomorrow. G'nite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRBean Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 they make a tool to compress the tensioner. It goes between the waterpump pulley and the tensioner pulley with a nut in the middle of it that you turn and it compresses the tensioner without removing it. There is a small hole in the housing of the tensioner and also in the plunger itself. After compressing the tensioner you can slide a hand grenade type pin in the hole to hold the tensioner in place. If you can't find the special tool at a parts store a large pry bar will also do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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