Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

1st run of auto reset rifle target


Recommended Posts

Being interested in an auto reset rifle target for long range shooting I liked the Larue target but at over $1000 a pop they sounded a little expensive. After building several different auto reset plate racks I knew how much gear reduction was required to reset say 5, 8” round plates or 10 plates of different dimensions , it took quite a bit and the reduction systems I used took up a lot of space vertically. Not something that would be practical for defending against rifle fire or mobility so I decided to try one of the (box of) motors I have used in the past for different projects (6X4X2) you can see it rotate against the bench at start up.

The target is a 2/3 sized silhouette made of 3/8” AR500 and it takes 17 ft-lb to lift it from horizontal. There is still a lot of “stuff” to fabricate but it looks to have enough power to reset in less than 5 seconds.

Here is a video of the trial on the bench.

http://s664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/gn/?action=view&current=1stautotarget.flv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the low profile reseting rig working today now it needs armor and paint. I didn't have a CNC machine to mill the slot for the cam like the larue so I used a band saw and pressed the part onto another shaft.

some more crappy videos of it working.

http://s664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/gn/?action=view&current=VID_00016.flv

http://s664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/gn/?action=view&current=VID_00012.flv

http://s664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/gn/?action=view&current=VID_00011.flv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some have wanted better details of how it works. The cam is working on a pin from the bottom (grade 8 3/8" bolt cut off). There is a spring counter bored into the 1" shaft to keep the cam against the pin by pushing back on the motor. I used double split set collars to allow for adjustment.

DSC02062.jpg

DSC02064.jpg

DSC02065.jpg

DSC02073.jpg

DSC02067.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the swtiching complete this afteernoon. I liked the proximity sensors that the larue used but I didn't want to waist the few I have (expensive) for such a simple job so I used some $.99 surplus limit swtiches that I had.

Stop limit open (target up and 270 degrees rotate ready for reset)

HPIM0398.jpg

Start limit closed (target down)

HPIM0399.jpg

both stop and start limit open (target up)

HPIM0402.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So how much did it end up costing you? If you were to build it for others, what would you charge?

I will have less than $100 each in them but all I had to buy was the AR500 2/3 size target $75 each, the 1” pillow blocks (about $20 ea) and the 1” oil lite bearing. I had everything else either at the shop, down at the farm or at home being called “junk” by my wife. A friend gave me a box of those gear reduced motors years back but I bet they would be the most expensive part of the build >$100 best guess (not counting time). The deer feeder batteries would run another $20 each. Plus other metal, set collars, springs, hardware and electrical tid bits that I alread had. I still have one more to build so I will have more to come as to what I would change but I have no intentions of building any for others, this is more for other do it yourself folks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a little more done today.

Here are the batteries mounted and the on off switch that goes at the rear of the cover, recessed in a section of pipe to keep the lever from getting knocked off.

HPIM0407.jpg

Cover on

HPIM0408.jpg

Other side of cover. I will use a section of pipe to cover the near pillow block.

HPIM0410.jpg

I didn’t like the looks of the motor torquing against the plate, even though it would have lasted for years, I added two oil-lite rollers to keep it level and let it roll back and forth without friction.

HPIM0411.jpg

Another photo of the near side roller.

HPIM0412.jpg

I'll complete the welding and use 1/2" plate and a cross tie to protect the front this weekend for testing and order AR500 when I get a chance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I finished the first one today. Here is a photo of the bottom plate after a light sand blast the bolt is for a rubber damper off a VW bug.

HPIM0414.jpg

Here is the cover I used 1/2" rod to protect the swtich and charge ports and give you something to grab onto.

HPIM0415.jpg

The guts all together.

HPIM0416.jpg

The front with an extra plate to stop low hits from causing damage.

HPIM0417.jpg

The rear with power swtich and charge ports in place.

HPIM0419.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Write up a detailed set of instructions with complete measurements, a detailed parts list, and some videos and sell them

Measurements wouldn't be very usefull unless you could get the same motors. If anyone has specific questions I'll help you out free of charge, for personal use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We took it out last Saturday and tested it with my 10.5" AR (the loads don't make PF) and it worked fine but my 9mm minor loads didn't drop it with low hits at 65 yds so I added an adjuster so you can trim the plate for greater sensitivity, so we can use it in pistol matches too. It requires no tools and only takes a few seconds to set. I also drilled a .090" hole through the adjuster and inserted a section of weed eater cord to act as an internal nylock so it stays put regardless of vibration.

HPIM0420.jpg

Edited by jmorris
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I LOVE this target. Very nice work. I could do all the metal fab, but the

motors and electronics are something I have no idea about and wouldn't know

where to begin. Very, very cool. A solar panel behind the berm to keep the

batteries charged would be a nice addition!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was given a box of the motors years ago and have used them for many projects as they are powerful and easy to mount. There really is nothing to the electronics just two switches. One switch is normally closed providing power until the cam gets into position ready to reset the target (motor side in photos above) then the switch hit’s a nub I welded on, opening the contact, cutting the power. Once the target falls it hit’s a normally open switch (target side above) that powers the motor off the nub that opened the other switch.

If that doesn’t make sense let me know and I’ll draw it out.

If I left it out the solar panel idea would be a good one but it will reset over 3800 times on a full charge as it is and that would make for a very long day. I know it’s only been less than a month but I have yet to charge the batteries any they still read 12.7 volts.

DSC01482.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...