Drop In Barrel for G35

[B Dub]

I am getting ready to buy a Glock 35. I am trying to keep costs down and am going to start reloading either hard cast, Precision, or Bayou bullets. Trying to determine if any will work reliably without fouling the OEM barrel. Have read a few forums on it but can't get a concensus view on this issue. My other option is a replacement barrel to avoid the entire issue. I am looking for opinions/ experiences with drop-ins safe for shooting lead. One hard cast dealer suggested Storm Lake. I have also heard Lone Wolf. The Lone Wolf appears to be considerably cheaper (do you get what you pay for?). Are there any others out there that would be a good option?

Also, I may try shooting matches in the future. I have not got into reading the class restrictions yet, but I assume that an aftermarket barrel would disqualify the gun for Production Division. Am I correct on this?

[jimzim]

After-market barrels are legal for Production "provided they are the same length, contour, and caliber as original factory standard."

[jimzim]

Are there any others out there that would be a good option?

I've used KKM and Bar-Sto after-market barrels in my Glock and both have performed flawlessly. Keep in mind that "drop-in" after-market barrels are not always that; you may have to do some minor fitting. I had to do that on both of these barrels.

[Jman]

I am getting ready to buy a Glock 35. I am trying to keep costs down and am going to start reloading either hard cast, Precision, or Bayou bullets. Trying to determine if any will work reliably without fouling the OEM barrel. Have read a few forums on it but can't get a concensus view on this issue. My other option is a replacement barrel to avoid the entire issue. I am looking for opinions/ experiences with drop-ins safe for shooting lead. One hard cast dealer suggested Storm Lake. I have also heard Lone Wolf. The Lone Wolf appears to be considerably cheaper (do you get what you pay for?). Are there any others out there that would be a good option?

Also, I may try shooting matches in the future. I have not got into reading the class restrictions yet, but I assume that an aftermarket barrel would disqualify the gun for Production Division. Am I correct on this?

From Precision Bullets website...

Q: Can I use Precision Bullets in my Glock?

A: Yes and No. We have many Glock shooters using Precision Bullets in factory Glock barrels with great results. However, I tell all Glock shooters it is try and see. If you have tried plated bullets and accuracy was good without keyholing, then ours should be fine. If you have tried traditional cast lead bullets and accuracy was good after 200+ rounds without heavy fouling, then our bullets will work fine and shoot a lot cleaner.

If your Glock won’t shoot Precision Bullets, then it will have problems fast—heavy fouling in 50 to 100 rounds, very poor accuracy, keyholing, etc. Then you will have to stick with jacketed bullets. However, this is very rare.

...this hold true with all quality hard cast and black bullet variants. Check your bullets performance with a OEM barrel first.

Jim

[dapribek]

The hard cast dealer suggested Storm Lake. I have also heard Lone Wolf. The Lone Wolf appears to be considerably cheaper (do you get what you pay for?). Are there any others out there that would be a good option?

I have not got into reading the class restrictions yet, but I assume that an aftermarket barrel would disqualify the gun for Production Division. Am I correct on this?

I shoot a 35 with a Storm Lake barrel so I could avoid any potential problems. I paid about $100 for it and at the time it was cheaper than a Lone Wolf barrel. Both are high quality barrels, but I think the Lone Wolf may have a slightly tIghter chamber. My Storm Kake barrel required no fitting. It is legal for Production and I highly recommend it. Hope this helps.

[triplesinglestack]

I also have a storm lake barrel in g35, no problems

[Braxton1]

When switching to a KKM, Lone Wolf, or other barrel, remember that most of them have tighter chambers and more support in the feed ramp area. This means that brass that is bulged from shooting in a factory barrel will sometimes not chamber in the new, tighter chamber without doing some serious re-sizing at the base (EGW U-Die, Redding G-Rx, or CasePro). It would behoove one to chamber-check their reloads, even if it wasn't necessary with the factory barrel.

Just something to consider....

[B Dub]

Thanks to all!

[EkuJustice]

I have a 35 complete lone wolf upper and it works well. If you dont like the logo on the barrel, order it blind marked. You could always sell the factory barrel and come out even on the aftermarket

[aztecdriver]

I had my first experience with this exact issue. Shot FL Open with stock barrel and G35 in Limited and used Precision 185Gr moly bullets. After cleaning - and then some considerable work on getting the lead out, I ordered the LW 40 barrel and shot it for the first time today. I did rechamber check my round and I did find it a little tighter than stock and did not have many rounds that I considered questionable. The Chronograph of the rounds ran about 25 fps slower. The shooting went fine through 200 rounds. I havn't checked the barrel for leading but the gun ran 100%. I'll let you know more - i'm changing my load to Solo 1000 so after I run that - I'll report.

[CocoBolo]

The secret to using the Pecision or other cast bullet without fowling is in belling the case properly. You have to bell it enough that you don't cut the moly. A Lee belling die won't bell it enough as when you raise the ram it close the bell back up. I use a Hornady belling die and it works great. If you see flakes of moly on the shell plate you are not belling enough.

Taking a little Flitz and polishing the inside of the barrel also helps.

[bkeeler]

Briley also makes Barrels for Glocks http://www.powercustomusa.com/glock-barrels.html

[B Dub]

When switching to a KKM, Lone Wolf, or other barrel, remember that most of them have tighter chambers and more support in the feed ramp area. This means that brass that is bulged from shooting in a factory barrel will sometimes not chamber in the new, tighter chamber without doing some serious re-sizing at the base (EGW U-Die, Redding G-Rx, or CasePro). It would behoove one to chamber-check their reloads, even if it wasn't necessary with the factory barrel.

Just something to consider....

Thanks! I was just checking come cases (shot from OEM Glock 22). I am setting up a Dillon 550B with Redding Titanium Carbide dies (an experienced competitor and reloader suggested Redding because he said they were a lot tighter on the resizing die). I resized a few pieces of brass and they are still slightly bulged at the base. They fit in the OEM barrel (obviously) and still have a fair amount of play. How tight are the tolerances on the Storm Lake barrels (could not find it on their website)? Is their any room for play at all?

Second question. I looked at the Redding G-RX die and see that it is a pass through(?) die. If I am running a 550b, would I have to resize with the G-RX, then change dies back to the original to re-cap? Again thanks for the info.

[Braxton1]

When switching to a KKM, Lone Wolf, or other barrel, remember that most of them have tighter chambers and more support in the feed ramp area. This means that brass that is bulged from shooting in a factory barrel will sometimes not chamber in the new, tighter chamber without doing some serious re-sizing at the base (EGW U-Die, Redding G-Rx, or CasePro). It would behoove one to chamber-check their reloads, even if it wasn't necessary with the factory barrel.

Just something to consider....

Thanks! I was just checking come cases (shot from OEM Glock 22). I am setting up a Dillon 550B with Redding Titanium Carbide dies (an experienced competitor and reloader suggested Redding because he said they were a lot tighter on the resizing die). I resized a few pieces of brass and they are still slightly bulged at the base. They fit in the OEM barrel (obviously) and still have a fair amount of play. How tight are the tolerances on the Storm Lake barrels (could not find it on their website)? Is their any room for play at all?

Second question. I looked at the Redding G-RX die and see that it is a pass through(?) die. If I am running a 550b, would I have to resize with the G-RX, then change dies back to the original to re-cap? Again thanks for the info.

I don't know about the Storm Lake barrels. Haven't used one.

The G-Rx die must be used in a single-stage press. The pusher rod is designed to replace a conventional shellholder.

(Hint: Wait around for a couple of weeks before ordering a G-Rx. The new ones will be carbide and the pusher rod has been re-designed. See the thread under "Non-Dillon Reloading Equipment".)

[Rico567]

I wanted a non-comp barrel for my G24C, and bought a KKM. It's functioned flawlessly for several years, has the tighter chamber, and is every bit as accurate as the OEM barrel.

On the die question, I use Lee dies on .40, and the size die comes down far enough on the case to deal with the bulge......at least to the degree that I have no trouble with it. I use range pickups from a variety of guns, and you can feel the bulged ones when they get sized.