Jeff686

I wonder if it is really that easy to find. I googled a M3.5 tap. The first 8 it found were in the UK or Australia. The 9th was in the USA, olander.com. Good luck.

Assuming you are correct and the threads are messed up, you are in a pickle. The screw is a M3.5. I hate the factory slotted screws they use. I've been searching for a button head hex drive screw for a long time, and had no luck. Sometimes, when you mess up threads, you can run a tap back through and fix them up. However, in this case, the threads are M3.5. I wonder if you could find a tap. The most reasonable choice is to drill it out to the next largest common size. The only issue is that the hole in your grips might need opened up some too. The upside would be you could get replacement grip screws at the hardware store!!

I've considered several different 'spray' methods, but the ones I've looked at use pigmented inks that are very thick. I worry about it being too thick. I think that the dye based ink is better because it doesn't add much actual material/residue to the case. In fact, type of ink can make a huge difference. I once tried an ink-pad (like you use for stamps), but that was a disaster. That ink is designed to not dry quickly, and stayed tacky. My hands were covered in ink, and my mags were all gummy on the inside. I haven't tried a patina or dyechem yet... I can make a little tool to add lengthwise stripes to brass as they feed down the casefeeder tube. However, the dye doesn't stay on after the resizing, I've tried. Plus, I like to use a little lube, and it has to come off before striping.

I used some tiny black sheet metal screws and a old plastic gift/credit card thingy. Just cut to fit and paint black. Of course, if you go with Eric G's solution, you won't need the trigger cover thingy.

I like to stripe by brass. Of course, it helps me get my own brass back, but it also makes it easier to spot it in the gravel amongst all those 9mm cases. Just putting a colored line or X on the headstamp is not enough, since you can't see it when the brass lays flat. If you, like me, prefer the striped ring around the brass, how fast are you? I thought about getting one of hosercam's brass marking thingies, but he doesn't make them anymore. My solution is shown below. I can mark around 800 rounds/hour. I'm wondering if that is fast, or if anyone has a better method.

I do remember messing around with the adjustments a lot. There is no up/down motion in my rig. I remember spending some time adjusting the white bolt to eliminate the forward/backwarding tilting too. When I bought the holster (used) it was setup for a 1911. I did install a different retainer bar. I don't remember how many it came with. At this point, there is no fore/aft or up/down play, and the draw and retention are good. Good luck.

Instead of lowering the bar, I raised my my pistol up in the holster until there was no play, and the trigger bar was snug against the trigger guard. The resulting problem was that the trigger was then exposed and did not meet safety requirements. I added an extra piece of plastic to the holster near the top, covering the trigger guard.

Go straight to the plastic porta-john, lock the door, clear the gun. If someone catches you, just accuse them of being a peeping-tom and never squad with them again.

wunderground says 49deg at 4pm, and 40deg at 10pm. That doesn't sound too bad. The Wilamette Valley is very temperate, all things considered. Compared to my home town, it stays pretty warm here all year. We can shoot 12 months of the year in Oregon, and rarely worry about anything but rain.

On my Tanfoglio, if the over travel is too little, the hammer drags on the sear, causing light hits. I'm not sure if the same thing can happen on a 1911. Do they even have an overtravel screw?

That's no excuse! Do you know your way around a 1911? You bring the ammo, I'll bring the gear. Any RN will work.

This month at ARPC in Albany, Oregon is having its regular monthy USPSA match at 9:00am, but is also having a night match at 5:30pm. Who's going? Anyone attending both? I am. We'll have 3-4 hours between matches. Anyone interested in a group meal?

Oh, I don't know, Starline Supercomp brass is pretty strong. I never retire them intentionally and they generally get lost before they fail. I am loading some right now that have 10+ loadings and very little headstamp visible and they are still going strong. Same thing with my Armscor brass. What I have left is running strong. I had trouble reloading some of it in my SDB, but once that was fixed, runs like a champ.

I'm running Montana Gold 121 IFP in 0.355.

Been shooting 38SC for 3 years now and have NEVER needed an EGW. These cases are very strong and I just dont see enough case head expansion to cause a problem when resized with the dillon standard die. I wonder how many people just don't understand how to setup the die? Some say that the EGW can get down lower on the brass and help keep a symetrical shape. It is supposed to help keep the 'banana' shape out of the stack of ammo in the magazine. I've never needed it, and I can load 28 in my big stick without failures. Did have one nosedive this last match, but it was a 1st for me. Some info from the Tanfoglio shooters here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...62126&hl=tj

x2. Order of preference from good to not so good: Hornady TJ, Lapua 38 super, Starline SC, AP RL. Best bang for the buck is Starline. Starline now makes TJ too!!!

I run 38SC from Starline and 38RL from Armscor in my Gold Team. No EGW undersize die necessary. I think that if you don't need it, don't get one. Gotta have a reason before getting one.

I didn't, but how many of you bought a Beretta 92F after Lethal Weapon?

Bummer. I just got a LNL a few months ago. I don't have any ejection problems yet, but I am using the Hornady crimp die in the last position. If you are correct about the price, it isn't a bad deal (for me). I don't own all the shell plates I want. Normally the shell plates are $40 each. If I can get the retrofit kit and 4 plates for the cost of 3 of the old plates, I'd do it. Then, all I need to do is get a friend with a lathe to add the groove to my existing shell plate. However, if I had already owned all the shell plates I need, it would really suck to replace them all. Of course, there is still a question of how reliable the new ejection system is...

try rimfirecentral.com

The man's claim of not being cheaper to reload used to be true for 9mm, but not anymore. When I started shooting 9mm in my AR carbine, about 4 years ago, it didn't make much financial sense. I could buy 9mm reloads or blazers for about the same price as reloading. Now, however, with the prices on the rise, it does make financial sense. I just ran the numbers: CCI Blazer from buyammo.com 22cents per round Wolf polymer from buyammo.com 17cents per round MiWall reloads from buyammo.com 22cents per round If you buy locally, at Walmart or Sportsmans Warehouse, the price is 2x. My reloads, made the way I want them with Zero bullets, Winchester primers, and Starline brass (reused 5x), are 14-17 cents per round. If you buy used brass, it is even cheaper. Now, that's about the same price as the wolf, but far superior, since I can control the load, OAL, crimp, and overall quality. In fact, I started reloading 9mm, not because of the price, but because I could make them exactly how I wanted them. I have a supressor on my AR, and wanted heavy bullets that were subsonic. Easy, if you reload, hard if you buy off the shelf. CCI Blazer in 45ACP are 32 cents. If you reload, I think they are around 17cents with used brass and Zero bullets. Plus, you don't have to count the cost of the equipment against you, since Dillon gear holds it value pretty well. You could figure about 4% depreciation per year, but otherwise it is an asset with a value.

If you stand directly behind the barrel, the relative velocity of the bullet to the observer is small. Even thought the bullet is only in flight for a fraction of a second, it is not moving much if looked at from directly behind it. With the proper lighting, you're eyes are plenty fast enough to catch a glimps of it. Remember computer CRT refresh rates? Some people could work all day at 60 hz, others are driven nuts by the flicker. So that assumes that many humans can detect events that are around 17ms. A bullet traveling at 1000fps takes 60ms to travel 20 yards. Plenty of time to catch a bullet in mid flight, if the light is right. Oh, BTW, I can frequently see the bullets from my 22 as they go downrange. Somehow, the 14x scope makes it easier to see them.

I'm not totally clear how it works, but I've got a good idea. Under warranty, they will replace broken parts by shipping them to you. If certain parts are broken that are difficult to replace, or there is a major failure (broken chassis), you send it in for maintenance and get a free refirb in the process. If the refirb is at your request, you pay a nominal fee for S&H and general expenses. I'm not totally sure where the lines are drawn, but I'm sure if you bought a used one that was rusting in someone's garage for 10 years, that wouldn't qualify for warranty refirb.

I know that ACOG makes a 3 or 4 power scope with a Doctor already piggy-back on it. Did you buy the Leupold and Doctor separately ... and then piggy-back them? I assume you did. BTW ... thanks to all for the great comments. Yes, bought the leupold, then found a 'glue on' piggy back adaptor for the Doctor. I forget who made it, but they are now discontinued. You can buy a scope ring with the Doctor/Jpoint adapter that does the same thing (actually better, since it is not permanent). If I can find pics, I'll post them.

I bought a good Leupold fixed 6x power and mounted a Doctor piggy-back on top of it.