Tman1010

These triggers are neat but the sluggish reset is something I just can’t stand. Hell a buddy had one in a gen 3 34 and if I squeezed the frame with my normal amount of grip pressure it wouldn’t reset.

I’ve experienced the same thing. I shot glocks In prod and limited a few years ago then switched to 2011s in limited for a little over 2 years. I was getting burnt out on limited after shooting it almost exclusively for 3 years and decided to switch to CO in the beginning of October. In fairness I still shot a 34 at a monthly outlaw match almost every month but rarely did any real training and almost no serious competing with them for about 2.5 years. I was shooting the gun decent with only 3 or 400 rounds of training and after a month or so I was shooting it significantly better than I did my 2011s. They just work really well for me and it honestly makes me wish I would’ve stuck with them in limited all this time. I love a nice 2011 and I shoot them well but the low bore axis and frame shape of glocks just works so well for me for some reason and I can honestly say I shoot them better than any other platform.

I’ve personally owned 9 glocks and 5 of them have been gen 4s. I like 3s and I think the 5s are the best gun they’ve ever made for sure but I’ve never understood why the 4s got such a bad rap. The only thing I see wrong with 4s from the factory over 3s is the dumb trigger bar design. Put in a gen 3 bar and they’re gtg. I like the mag catch better on the 4s and 5s over the 3s and the smaller grip without a back strap is also nice.

At this point I’ve probably done 25 or 30 SC jobs on glocks for myself and mainly other people. In my experience the JB weld plastic bonder is definitely the way to go as far as epoxy. I’ve tried others and they all seem to have the same issue. The carbide likes to come off in chunks around corners due to the epoxy not bonding with the plastic on the frame good enough. As far as the carbide goes i like 60/90 grit on competition guns. The only other advice I have is to make sure you tape it off good and if you want it to look professional make sure the tape is on straight and even.

I’ve always lubed my guide rods in all my competition guns, which includes 2011s and glocks. The only time a Glock could potentially have issues running with too much lube is if it gets in the striker channel. Personally I lube my glocks heavily and have never had a single issue. I have seen plenty of glocks have stovepipes and other issues due to the guns being run dry. Running guns with minimal oil is never a good idea in my opinion. I have probably shot 60 or 70k through glocks with this method and have never had a single issue from it. The people saying they run theirs dry don’t shoot enough to know any better IMO.

Does anyone know if the gen 5 strikers have a longer tip that previous gen factory strikers?

I recently added buckshot into the back strap then did a sevigny speedway on a 34 and it’s pretty nice. The speedway mod blows just using a plug out of the water. Only downside is it’s permanent.

The gen 5s are slower because they have standard rifling versus all the previous generations having polygonal. The new barrels are supposed to be more accurate but the loss in PF sucks. I chronoed a gen 5 17 next to my gen 4 34 and the 17 was 100 FPS less consistently with the same ammo.

The BSPS dryfire targets are really nice. I use the 3rd scale ones most of the time.

The SJC is a good one. If you can find one of the old Dawson ice brass ones those are nice too. I’ve run both on a limited G24 and liked both.

I’ve always liked the 34s due to the fact that you get the extra velocity which means you don’t have to load as hot. Side by side setup for CO I can shoot my 34, a 17 and a G45 almost the exact same though. Only difference is my 135ish PF ammo out of my 34 would be 130isn out of a 17 and even less out of the G45 and I prefer to load decently hot personally.

That’s pretty cool, basically a sevigny speedway?

Try something new to relight the fire has always worked for me.

How do you like it?