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This is something I didn't appreciate until I actually started reloading. I have a very heavy bench I made, with retractable casters. I figured there was no need to bolt it to the wall because of its size, and weight, and even putting a lot of force into it the bench had ALMOST no movement, when the casters were up, and it rested entirely on the floor. I use an Inline Fabrication Quick change plate, so i can still use it as work bench for other things. After, I started loading, that tiny movement was a bit of an issue. I built brackets that allowed me to bolt the bench to the wall, but also unbolt it, if I need to move the bench for other projects. That made a huge difference.

A review from Steve Anderson: https://www.outdoorlife.com/gear/best-dry-fire-training-systems/ " . . . The recoil provided by the CoolFire is about as powerful as live fire recoil and may be slightly more violent the lighter handloads frequently used in the “minor” power factor divisions of USPSA and other practical pistol sports. I fired 12 rapid shots with the Glock, and it felt fairly realistic. While the CoolFire recoil feels like live fire recoil, it doesn’t look the same. The red dot on the Glock 34 actually dipped below the aiming point in recoil instead of rising up like it does in live fire. This is not a problem for newer shooters but is not ideal for more experienced shooters who are learning to pay more attention to the sight picture during recoil as opposed to just before and after recoil. With the CoolFire there is a sight picture, a disturbance in the sight picture as the gun recoils, and then another sight picture. This is good, but it’s not the same disturbance in the sight picture that happens when a live round is fired. I have worked with many clients who like to use the CoolFire at the end of a traditional dry fire session to remind themselves that the gun will recoil in live fire and to make sure their grip is appropriate. If you want the gun to recoil in dry fire, the CoolFire is one of the best dry fire training systems for this purpose, and might be the only option if you want to use your own gun. It’s also the only way I know of to reset a semi-automatic handgun trigger during dry fire. It was necessary to recharge the CoolFire barrel with CO2 often, with faster trigger presses requiring more frequent charging. Another thing to note is that the recoil impulse changes as the CO2 becomes depleted. The slide begins to move slower as the gas runs out and eventually stops until the unit is charged again. I would recommend the CoolFire to any shooter who needs to get accustomed to handling recoil, especially someone with limited access to live fire. They just need to understand that the sight picture will look different in recoil than it does in live fire. And I would absolutely recommend the CoolFire system to anyone who tends to flinch in anticipation of recoil, particularly a new shooter who may have an actual fear of recoil. . ."

Same here. Twice I've called customer service to trouble shoot problems with my Lock-n-Load AP, and the tech said it was possible, but unlikely parts were the problem. Because I'm at work during CS hours, they gave me steps to try for fixing the problems, to do when I was back at home. Both times they sent replacement parts, so that just in case the other steps didn't work, I'd have the parts.

Can you point to the files for printing the mags? Also, where are you getting tubes? I don't have a 3D printer, but the local library does, and its free to print stuff there. So I might try this.

I contacted Lee, and asked for the dimension of the case sizing portion of the 9mm Carbide Factory Crimp die (SKU: 90860). They responded back with .378" to .381". I then measured several cases to get the case thickness, from a variety of brass, including Hornady nickel plated brass, and brass from Federal, Winchester, and Blazer. I measured several examples of each. All measured .010" or .011". So, with the smallest dimension of the sizing ring of .378", and the thickest cases at .011", the smallest possible dimension is .356". I'm using .355" Blue Bullets, so I doubt any sizing of the bullet is occurring.

I have not tried the actual chamber. I thought the whole reason for using a case gauge was to avoid that extra step.

Sorry, but I don't understand this statement. If the bullet is .355" in diameter, but the crimp is set to .378, how would that resize the bullet?

Cool, thanks.

If it doesn't drop flush, I consider that a failed round.

I'm loading 9mm, mixed brass, but mostly (90%+) Hornady nickel plated, and Federal brass, with a Blue Bullet 135gr TC bullet. Flare is set at .384, and the case is then crimped to .376. That leaves a very slight impression in the coating, if I pull the bullet. I don't feel.any resistance on the ones I sent back through, but all but one, then passed the gauge, after the second pass.

Maybe I wasn't clear, and yes I searched/read about the Lee FCD, before deciding to use it. I'm asking if anyone else runs cartridges that fail the gauge, back through the FCD again?

I'm new to reloading. I'm using a Hornady lock-n-load AP, with a U-die, Photo Escape PTX, Lee seating die, and Lee Factory Crimp die. I use a Hundo case gauge, and so far I have about a 3% failure rate. Out of curiosity I ran all the cases that failed the case gauge through the Factory Crimp Die again, and then all but one passed. I set those rounds aside, and used them first, at my next trip to the range, and all cycled fine. Anyone else do this, and is there any reason this would be a bad idea? I can't see how it would be a problem, but maybe I'm missing something.

Have you tried this with coated bullets? I'm using Blue Bullets 135gr TC, and figured I could get the kit, and three extra magazines, for a total of four. That would all cost less than just the Mini Mr Bullet Feeder kit, without spare magazines. Thanks.

I am considering this, as an alternative to the Mini Mr Bullet Feeder, or SoCal Mag-P. These are the only reviews I've found: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/new-lee-inline-bullet-feeder-rotary-magazine-for-spp-pro-6000-beta-testing.913099/page-6 https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/New-Lee-inline-bullet-feeder/42-543263/

I use the least expensive liquid chalk I can find. It's good for shooting, and workouts.

Scott Jedlinski's thoughts about gripes like yours, when he recommends Holosun sights, is appropriate here: "The Chinese invented gunpowder, so get over it."

What works for me. 1. Dishsoap and Lemishine for 15 mins. 2. Rinse 3. Wash & Wax and Lemishine 30-40 mins. 4. Rinse 4. Dry in a food dehydrator, which is all the reloading specific dryers are anyway. I use a Frankford Arsenal Lite tumbler. 600-700 rounds of 9mm per load. If you're really high volume then get the full size. I don't use pins.

After a couple years slacking off on my workouts, I got back into it seriously about a year ago. I consulted with our lead physical training instructor at our LE academy when getting started. He's had extensive training in developing PT programs, and is also a firearms instructor, and shoots competitvely (although he's more of a "casual" competitor). This is what he recommends for me, and I've been using it with great success: Five days of workouts, two days of "rest." Mon: Weightlifting (I use the 2 day/per week Wendler 5/3/1 program) - Squats & Bench. Tues: Metabolic Conditiong (MetCon for the Cross fit crowd), aka HIIT. Wed: Long Slow Cardio 20 -30 minutes. Thurs: Weightlifting (W 5/3/1) - Deadlift (with a hex bar due to low back issues) & Overhead Press Fri: MetCon (aka HIIT) I hate all forms of running, and since I no longer have access to a Concept 2 rower, I am lazy about the long slow cardio day. Often, I substitute 4 rounds of 3 minutes jumping rope, with one minute rest between rounds, instead of doing 20+ minutes of running. Before I installed a rack in the garage, and got barbells and plates, I was using this bodyweight program for my "strength/weightlifting" days. https://athleanx.com/articles/the-perfect-home-workout-one-month-plan (YT video of the program: Following the recommended 5 day on/two day off plan has helped me both with moving faster/aggressively through stages, and not being too fatigued during matches, on hot summer days in Texas. It has also been a huge help with making me just generally feel better going about my everyday activities. Now that I'm in my early 50s, I realized fitness needs to be taken seriously. Like many other things I wish I had realized that 3 decades ago!

I use the Peltor 500s, and added the gel ear seals. I double up with these earplugs: https://www.amazon.com/3M-OCS1135-Yellow-Neons-Earplugs/dp/B008MCUOH2/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=ear+plugs+3M+foam&qid=1608057880&sr=8-6 That setup offers great noise protection, and the ability to have a conversation. They have been durable for me, and I've used (lightly abused!) them a bunch, over the last two years. Both when shooting, and doing yard work. The headband is annoying (the style on 100s is much better, but those only offer a 22dB NRR), but I fixed that by adding one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079WV2KN3?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title With the headband cover they are comfortable to wear all day long.

Thanks. I am in the same ammo drought as everyone else. So, I'm doing lots of dry fire, just a tiny bit of dry fire, and only shooting one match a month. I'm getting all the reloading gear together slowly, studying up on procedures/techniques, and hoping things will ease up in a few months, and I'll be able to actually starting loading my own stuff.

Thank you I needed to read that. I've been frustrated because I've been stuck at a fairly consistent 1.6s draw to first shot in dry fire, and while I can occasionally shave a couple tenths off that, I haven't made any real progress in a couple months. I will confess that I've been obsessed with getting a faster draw to first shot time. I think you are right, and probably make more overall progress if I devote more time to other skills. Thanks.

I'm the same way. I had very poor instruction when I first shot handguns (USAF CATM instructors are way behind the times!). I was repeatedly told i jad to shoot Weaver, and that i would never shoot well due to "cross dominance issues.". It was BS. Later, I got some quality instruction, and was told just put the pistol up in front of the dominant eye and go to work. I ended up with the left foot slightly forward, and my headed turned a little to the right. My shooting rapidly improved once I realized cross dominance is not a big deal. I think the issue of eye dominance is overblown. Really, when is the last time someone who isn't cross dominant worried about eye dominance when shooting " weak hand?" Ever heard an instructor mention eye dominance when teaching someone who is not cross dominant about shooting "weak hand?" I've got a LOT of room for improvement in my shooting, but cross dominance is absolutely the least of my concerns.

Just wanted to say hello. I'm in my late 40s, but just starting out with USPSA shooting. I'd also like to get into reloading, to help facilitate doing more live fire training, and maybe develop a good load for use in matches (assuming I can get good enough that shooting something other than cheapest bulk ammo available will make a difference!