PCPEMark

There will be no issue if you chrome a gun that was previously cerakoted. Ans i have to agree with sarge, you will have less headache if you let your refinisher remove the cerakote

I do alot of bright work and the parts get loaded up with compound. I use a 50/50 mixture of water and mean green ( dollar general). the most time i used the ultrasonic is 5-10 minutes. if it takes more time than that...you have a non-functioning US. it doesn't have to be a top dollar machine, i got my 7 litre on ebay for like 175.00 .

i think you will get a job well done no matter which company you choose..ofcourse i hope you decide to try mine . regardless, keep posting pics of your guns!!! We as refinishers love to see people happy with what they got back.

BTW Sarge, i worked for APW for 15 years. Also did a stint with Fords refinishing going back to when they were Checkmate. Still good friends with Horace and Larna

I have not heard of dlc coming in different colors...but i do know that pvd does

I can't chrome titainium ..and pot metal, otherwise i can chrome just all metal. I will not chrome the internals unless asked for ( changes the action)

would like to throw alittle bit out there and maybe it will help someone that is not familiar with finishing of firearms. First let me tell you about myself. I started in this industry thanks to my oldest brother that was the head of the Colt Custom Shop for like 20 years. In 1990 he talked me into going to see a plater that was doing work for Colt and i took the job. I have learned to cut ( buff) guns to bring them back to looking good again by some of the best in the business...Fast foward 30 years and here i am, along with my wife the owners of precision custom plating and engraving. Now i'm not saying i know all that there is about finishing but i have learned alot. Over the years i have tried many finishes and did my homework. This is a rough list of things that might help you decide which way you want to go.... I will not cover spray and bake finishes because i reall y haven't much experience with them. Bluing--- the industry standard for 100+ years. Beautiful black finish will last many years if taken care of correctly. bluing will wear off rather quickly with holster wear. Nickel--- Has been used as a finish that protects against the elements and as a pretty finish. more durable that bluing and if taken care of will last a lifetime. It is one of the softest applied metals but holds up well against wear. thickness depends on tank chemistry, temp, time in bath..but it is usually about.001 build up per surface area. Chrome--- I personally think that chrome has proven itself over the decades. A extremely hard, durable, good looking finish that hold up well to wear and the elements. makes cleaning of the gun easier and chrome on the rails adds a lubricity. It is also an affordable finish compaired to others. it is appied to a thickness of about .001 per surface area Gold titainiumnitrite and black nitride----Though we offer these finishes, they are not done inhouse. But we have tried many many places that do this service and all i can say is this....... Both are great finishes. Both are hard and durable, and good looking. The trick is findng the place that does it correctly. Meaning, applied with a smooth even appearance with no voids and most of all...a non hazy transparent appearance. After many places we finally found someone that offers such product. DLC------ Oh boy do i have experience with this. It's the newest gotta have in the market today. We have tried ( no kidding) atleast10+ companies and we have two that we like. This is a beautiful finish..and i mean a beautiful black finish. The problem is, it is exspensive. Also most do not prep your gun before coating...thus i buff it and get it looking good and ship it to them, they apply finish and ship it back. The companies apply this finish 1.5- 10 micron thick. Just so you know, The average hair on your head is 80 microns thick. Even though it is that thin , it is very durable. Well i hope this helps your decide on what finish fits you best...or atleast reading this made it easier to fall asleep.

Thank You David...Glad you are happy with everything

i have been using slick 50 and lucas oil treatment...now they have gun oil...haven,t seen a difference between the gun oilm and oil treatment

i will probably get in the doghouse for this but..... you might want to check out precision custom plating and engraving. ... platingandengraving.com yes, its my company. So, to give a brief history; i started doing refinishing back in 1990 with APW. also have worked with checkmate gun refinishing ( for all you people that can remember that far back). they have been Fords refinishing for like 20years now. Anyways, my wife and decided it was time to open our own place . For those who are familiar with me and my work , looking foward to doing your next project or just catching up

i will probably get in the doghouse for this but..... you might want to check out precision custom plating and engraving. ... platingandengraving.com yes, its my company. So, to give a brief history; i started doing refinishing back in 1990 with APW. also have worked with checkmate gun refinishing ( for all you people that can remember that far back). they have been Fords refinishing for like 20years now. Anyways, my wife and decided it was time to open our own place . For those who are familiar with me and my work , looking foward to doing your next project or just catching up

again..if it is aluminum, the anodizing will be taken off. I use 140 grit glass beads set to 60psi..anything over 60psi the glass beads breakdown on impact. now if it is steel...i used 60 grit aluminum oxide to make short work of it. I set it to 80-85 psi

I am assuming that you are trying to get out a lead buildup inside the comp. If so, trying scraping out as much as possible with a small screwdriver the use the ultrasonic cleaner. In have found that Mean Green from Dollar General works well. But not for an extended period of time if your comp is aluminum.If its steel, have at it. Bead Blasting will definately clean the comp...but it will also remove any anodizing if your comp is aluminum.

I have found that whenever i get a stubborn spray and bake finish in my shop that i want gone.... i use aircraft stripper.. you can get it at just about any autoparts store and walmart. But be careful!!!, it is in an aerosol can and if you get it on your skin it will burn.

I would like to throw alittle bit out there and maybe it will help someone that is not familiar with finishing of firearms. First let me tell you about myself. I started in this industry thanks to my oldest brother that was the head of the Colt Custom Shop for like 20 years. In 1990 he talked me into going to see a plater that was doing work for Colt and i took the job. I have learned to cut ( buff) guns to bring them back to looking good again by some of the best in the business...Fast foward 30 years and here i am, along with my wife the owners of precision custom plating and engraving. Now i'm not saying i know all that there is about finishing but i have learned alot. Over the years i have tried many finishes and did my homework. This is a rough list of things that might help you decide which way you want to go.... I will not cover spray and bake finishes because i reall y haven't much experience with them. Bluing--- the industry standard for 100+ years. Beautiful black finish will last many years if taken care of correctly. bluing will wear off rather quickly with holster wear. Nickel--- Has been used as a finish that protects against the elements and as a pretty finish. more durable that bluing and if taken care of will last a lifetime. It is one of the softest applied metals but holds up well against wear. thickness depends on tank chemistry, temp, time in bath..but it is usually about.001 build up per surface area. Chrome--- I personally think that chrome has proven itself over the decades. A extremely hard, durable, good looking finish that hold up well to wear and the elements. makes cleaning of the gun easier and chrome on the rails adds a lubricity. It is also an affordable finish compaired to others. it is appied to a thickness of about .001 per surface area Gold titainiumnitrite and black nitride----Though we offer these finishes, they are not done inhouse. But we have tried many many places that do this service and all i can say is this....... Both are great finishes. Both are hard and durable, and good looking. The trick is findng the place that does it correctly. Meaning, applied with a smooth even appearance with no voids and most of all...a non hazy transparent appearance. After many places we finally found someone that offers such product. DLC------ Oh boy do i have experience with this. It's the newest gotta have in the market today. We have tried ( no kidding) atleast10+ companies and we have two that we like. This is a beautiful finish..and i mean a beautiful black finish. The problem is, it is exspensive. Also most do not prep your gun before coating...thus i buff it and get it looking good and ship it to them, they apply finish and ship it back. The companies apply this finish 1.5- 10 micron thick. Just so you know, The average hair on your head is 80 microns thick. Even though it is that thin , it is very durable. Well i hope this helps your decide on what finish fits you best...or atleast reading this made it easier to fall asleep.