Edwards30

I went back and fourth countless times with CHPWS (They were excellent each time). The last time I sent in my whole slide (stripped). The screws were too long and hung up on my extractor after so I had to disassemble immediately. Anyways, after that time I ignored the torque reading and cranked down the plate as tight as I could, if I remember right, I did this out of anger. Resulting in one of the screws to round off the Torx portion. The threads on the screw itself held fine. So basically, I cleaned them again, added blue loctite, and just cranked them down. It has been thousands of rounds since then and I haven't had an issue.

Since this is just an opinion poll, I’d say the best one I’ve felt has been mine from Tactical Triggers. I added the increased power trigger spring and reduced power safety plunger spring. I think it pulls just under 4lbs with a defined wall. I like the much more positive reset compared to my Timney. I used to also have a Johnny Glock custom trigger but did not enjoy it.

I prefer a slightly higher trigger pull weight with a more powerful reset which is hard to get with the Timney. My timey is sluggish feeling but is much lighter. I can get my stock Glock triggers sub 4#'s with the same parts you mentioned and adding in targeted polishing. Personally, I use a complete trigger from https://tacticaltriggers.com and prefer those over my Timney's.

Post a picture of the complete frame, it will be easy to tell.

No performance gain either way. I just use OEM in everything.

I’ve never experienced that. Plenty of people use the Ragnarok for work and competition.

https://www.bigtexordnance.com/product/glock-oem-trigger-spring-all/ You can also likely find it on places like EBay

My Glock CO setups both have lights (TLR-1). I don’t really notice a big difference with or without. It’s more something you just get used to as far as timing either way. I use a Trex Arms Ragnarok holster for them. I have a custom milled slide one one and a Zev for the other. Neither of them have backup sights and both are setup for SRO’s.

I have several Zev Glock slides but have not seen that. I would contact them directly and see what they say. Aside from that, you could possibly have a gun shop remove the posts and drill/tap for typical sized screws.

Can you post some photos of the slide? I'd be curious to see the extent of the damage.

The people I see using compacts are typically just using their carry guns and using matches for practice. For matches, a 17/34 is in every way better than a 19 in my opinion.

I have used both in CO. Not really enough of a difference that I would purchase one over the other. If you already have a 17, you are good to go. If you don't have either, maybe get a 34 because you can load slightly lighter due to the longer barrel. Also worth noting, if you bounce around in divisions, the 34 is better in production due to the sight radius.

I have attached 2 of the posts made by Infinity on their Instagram. One is the short post saying they canceled their match and the other is them being fudds. https://imgur.com/a/9i8yRmL

I also have this problem intermittently. Typically it is some sort of debris like mentioned above. Always aggravating though.

I had this same issue and it was my cases were not inserting all the way. Or sometimes they would almost bounce off the shell plate if I was going too fast. The solution was I ordered one of those bearing kits on Bay and really snugged down the shell plate and then adjusted the case feeder shuttle in as far as I could.

T-Rex arms will cover all of this. You can also go the route of a Red Hill Tactical for the OWB if you want something more gamer like

Some of the same pros you talk about still run frame weights on their light polymer guns depending on division. Another thing to note is the have been shooting without a light on the front for years so maybe they don't want to mess with what they already know. The light certainly adds mass to the front of the gun, wether you gain enough of an advantage is another thing.

I haven't seen this but I have always honed my own connectors and strikers. If I was building from scratch and didn't have anything I might consider paying someone to do that polishing for me however.

I wasn't shooting when Vegas was hosting any major matches but it seems Desert Sportsman (Vegas) has changed some of the management since then from what I hear. They just now started doing USPSA again after only having IDPA and SC.

Yes Desert Sportsman in Summerlin is still active, I am a member there. They even are just finishing construction on more pistol bays there for USPSA. There is also Pro Gun Club on the other side of Las Vegas that I believe holds major matches for rifles quite often and should be able to accommodate it.

Yes. Theoretically you could even use .40 in CO. I know someone who uses a light load of .40 in his Glock in production. I believe the rules only state that it must be a minimum of 9mm but does not mention a max. If I'm wrong, someone will correct me.

I typically find my FO rod becomes sooty far before it breaks. I typically replace them every 6 months or so just to keep them bright. I do keep spares in my range bag and did have to use it one time.

They all look fine to me as far as signs of pressure. Here is an extreme example of what over pressure can look like.

Your main response will be to check out the offerings from Dawson. I run red FO on the front of my irons but that can be cheaply changed.

The only way I was ever able to get a reply was to text the number on his website. For anyone looking at this thread in the future.. I ordered on 01/19/22 and it was received on 05/07/22. I believe I was quoted 10 weeks lead time at that point but it could have been 8. That should give an idea of how long your actual wait time will be.