ezra650

That seems really slow. Fine for personal use I guess... I was going faster than that when I hand cranked my 1100s.

Yep the sweet spot I found was 2300+/- for loading pre processed, but not primed, brass. IIRC i am getting an output of 3k maybe more, when just processing 9mm. The idea crossed my mind of going to no lube or an evaporating lube like one shot and priming also on that processing pass. And therefore on the loading pass bump up to 2600-2800rph. I can load 9mm at 2600 now with my current setup but the only issue is missed primers. The only true solution here may to simply dedicate another press to priming only. But I'm not to that point yet of adding yet another machine. My work space is shrinking as is haha!

How fast are you priming on the 1050/1100s? The dillon priming system doesn't seem to like running much above 2300rph output. I would like see 2800-3000 on priming. Any tips?

I'm also having the same issue with case spin using the whidden trim die for 300blk and the RT1500. I also noticed running the machine faster prevented the spinning (as mentioned above via Dillon tech support). I could run the trim die lower to touch the shellplate and size earlier, but then I would not be able to fit vacuum shroud under the trimmer and I do not want to mess with designing a low profile exhaust shroud at the moment. For now I will run the press at a faster pace to prevent the spinning. Exploring a double sided short trim head setup sounds like an option with a rough cut die and 2nd trimmer later on.

Yep for some reason Dillon made that crankshaft different on each model of press. Discovered that recently with a friend prototyping his direct gear drive autodrive.

This is great. Thank you so much! And yea I was wondering if all the pistol plates are same thickness. I dont think it's super critical.

I did some reverse engineering this morning based off the 9mm plate. Really all I need is the thickness of the plate and how many bullet cutouts are on the plate. The width of the section between each bullet slot would be handy. I can try and work on getting some pictures and diagram but the 1st couple of measurements should be self explanatory...

Does anyone out there have a 45 acp collator plate for their DAA MBF and would give me some measurements? I need plate thickness, depth and width of bullet cut out slots, distance between bullet cut outs (near edge to near edge), and number of bullet slots around the circumference of the plate. I own 2 MBFs and have a few conversion kits along with the parts to make a 45acp conversion kit minus the collator plate. I think I'm going to have some fun 3d printing one for myself as a drafting project.

The 1100 requires less fiddling to get running from what I see. Only down side is missing one station after the priming so you have to give up one of these things. Powder check, bullet feeder, or seat and crimp being separate. The index mechanism on the big dillons isn't the best design. Buy a pack of extra shoulder bolts for the index roller. The 1100 operates smoother than the S1050. The S1050 does have stronger leverage and taller stroke. I lube all my brass and the 1100 runs great. I'm sticking with 1100s unless I need a taller stroke.

One of my brass processing guys passed that on to me. I haven't tried it yet but I plan to.

Well smarty pants I'm not sure if they intentionally sold an older model without the pin But there is a hole there for it so...

There should be 3 if you count the spring guide rod as a "pin". My toolhead is missing the pin just past the swage station that keeps the primer slide in place. I guess they forgot to press it in?? They also had offered me an upgrade to the new toolhead. At that time I was told it was a smaller thread than 7/8. Now I see the updated pics on the website and it is a full size die thread. I hope they will still allow me to upgrade/exchange mine. At the very least I need a priming alignment pin because as of right now this toolhead is useless. But then I'd have to press/glue it in *groan* I'm sure they will take care of me. They have been very accommodating so far. I wish they had phone hours listed. I called 2pm their time and just got hold music for several minutes. Email has been good but a 24hr gap between responses, due to time differences I suppose.

Did your 1st head have the short alignment pin that goes thru the primer slide/cam? I think mine is missing.

Also one trick is to use a 38 super size die for 9mm. It sizes a little tighter down the case IIRC.

I have the MA decapper. It isn't my favorite, mostly due to it being all aluminum. Strong pins though, punches berdan with no issue. I just picked up a lee universal to try with the squirrel daddy pins and I also will be buying the FW arms auto centering.

I also ordered one with the black Friday pricing. Glad I did. Apparently they are sending out the gen 2 version which has a threaded priming station. I am very excited! If someone reminds me in a few months I will update with how I like using the toolhead. If I don't like keep an eye on the classifieds You make a good point on the stress. I am planning to use mine mostly for 2 pass loading. Definitely no rifle sizing, and perhaps the occasional small batch of pistol ammo. Brass will be done on factory heads primarily. The main concern with the bushings seems to be the o-ring can compress over time. So runout with seating and sizing may be possible. The benefits are being able to go from brass prep to loading quickly and savings when loading multiple calibers. This will save me from needing about 3-5 factory toolheads for dedicated loading

I bought a pack of 100 of those E clips from Mcmaster Carr or zoro. Best way to replace them is leave die set on press. Run a case into the die to the point it lifts the decapper rod exposing the slot where the E clip resides, and hold it there. Click new clip into place, keep on trucking.

I was thinking about trying the aftermarket shellplates. Do you run dillon ones on your ammobot? Other than spring adjustments and shell stabilizers I'd tend to agree with you in regard to the 550 and 1050s. 650/750 has some helpful odds and ends that making reloading on them hassle free.

Ah that makes a lot more sense. For some reason I was thinking he used a scribe on the shellplate itself??haha. Thanks for the pic. I think I'll borrow this tip!

How many casefeed plungers and shoulder bolts/bushings have you worn out so far? Are spare plungers a thing to keep on hand?? Are you running an ammobot? I may be bugging you via PM if thats ok. Also good time to note that Ace Hardware carries the shoulder bolts found on dillon machines. So does Mcmaster Carr but its nice to be able and see them in person. Just thought I'd share for everyone.

LVL 10 innovations sells one. I'm sure there are others also. I'm on the hunt for one also to replace the outdated guide on my S1050. Dillon made a rolling change to the guide a while back. Mine is the old style with 2 distinct angles instead of a singular sweeping curve. That ammobot one looks nice. Wish they still sold them.

The luddite in me prefers the buttons/knobs on the ammo bot, FFB, and others. JMHO.

That's literally what I said in my reply . 9lb 1911 recoil spring clipped in half. Stock spring has plenty of tension but I feel like the 1911 spring allows you to go faster as you don't have to worry about the shellplate waiting too long on the case to be presented. Also agree with George. Lube/clean up press every 5k rounds. Sometimes maybe even sooner. Mainshaft needs oil frequently. Just depends on powder slosh and how clean your brass is etc. Good idea to clean dies every 10k or so. Q tip soaked in alcohol usually keeps from having to pull die off toolhead. I don't see point in etching your shellplate. I just tighten the plate as much as possible. Don't think you could get it too tight with how big the dillon pockets are on their shellplates. Only have to worry about too tight for smooth index. Witness marks are nice to have. I keep them on my dies and I have one on my index adjustment screw.

Take off your aftermarket shellplate bearing if you are using one. Clip one coil off the index ball spring. Tighten the shellplate appropriately and adjust the linkage/index travel screw on the back of the frame appropriately. Use a 1911 recoil spring clipped in half for the casefeed plunger. I've been using a 9lb spring and I like it. I was having this issue and it was driving me crazy. I did the above and I went thru 2k 9mm with not a single bad case insertion. Loading 100rd in 3-3.75min. I think a lot of it has to do with how you move the handle. If you throw it too hard or too soft based on how your index is set. Also implementing an index dwell into your arm movement helps a lot. I recently found I'm much more consistent on handle throw when I'm sitting down on my elevated bar stool. I still load standing up as well, but my cadence/RPH is a bit slower because I can't keep it as consistent/smooth. The other factor is how low/tight your shellplate is on the press.

I'm also hopeful but knowing how their pricing works now... I'd expect at least $2000 if not $2500. I hope I'm wrong. I'd like to see them release at $1500-1800. Either way more options is good. The only publicly available drives for the 1100 currently are MK7 or FFB. Maybe the P&W will fit an 1100?? I'm not sure.