Kevrend

Interested in putting one of these in my Prodigy. The Nitro Fin 2.0 is in stock in black but I prefer the aesthetic of the Atlas. Anyone ran both and have a preference? Function over form, but if I can get both in one package, that’s great.

It's been said before, but I'll say it again. I like the Guga Ribas holster. All the modularity needed to function with lots of different guns, especially the Caspian frames with the ultra thin trigger guards.

As previously mentioned, the Tactical Games accuracy requirements are pretty broad and your average off-the-shelf AR will shoot the accuracy requirement. The physical element of accuracy when involved in that type of activity is more likely going to be the determining factor in effectiveness in the competitions. That said, if your current rifle is not grouping well now in purely target shooting environment, then I'd start with trying a few different types of ammunition to see if there's just something your gun happens to like prior to a barrel swap. Example: if your current barrel is a 1:9 twist, shoot 55gr. If it's 1:7 twist, try 72 or 77g. If it's 1:8 try 62-69gr.

If you are happy with the way your gun already functions, but hate the quadrail, this may be a good option: https://midwestindustriesinc.com/two-piece-ar15-free-float-m-lok-handguard/ or something similar. 2 piece rails that will work around your existing gas block without needing to remove it, and don't have the pic rail all over the place.

For a basic compliant brake that is tame to the shooter and colleagues, I don't think you can go wrong with the BCM Comp Mod series. They are essentially an A2 Birdcage with a cone baffle inside which makes them compliant and they're really enjoyable.

Huge fan of the Timney Calvin Elite. Super light, no ignition or reset issues, very fast. Zero creep, ultra crisp break and you can adjust the length of pull and angle to your needs, plus comes with a variety of shoes, (flat, curved, knurled cylinder, etc).

For the price that you’re talking. I think my money would be on a Criterion barrel. My initial suggestion would be a JP but it exceeds your budget. For gas blocks, there’s arguments on both sides for adjustable vs non-adjustable. Most aftermarket gas blocks are set screws and manufacturer specs recommend barrel dimpling to help them hold true. Def need loctite as well. Some companies like D Wilson MFG offer to pin them for you. A pinned block will be bulletproof as far as long term alignment.

I believe I read that the razor zoom ring is stiff because it’s over-greased inside. If you pull the ring and remove some of the grease (not all) it significantly lightens the throw. I haven’t done that because with my switch throw I don’t feel it’s too heavy. But that’s an option.

Impact Machine released their RMR/SRO plates for prodigy. $70 and they’re good to go.

Pretty sure they are or were Blem versions but I snagged one also and I’m content with it. Still waiting on a 507 Comp to show up, but the fit and finish of the plate is up to par with all expectations and looks like it flares out from the slide to the optic dimensions cleanly. Replaces u notch rear sight with a square notch rear of same height. Also comes with two sets of different length screws for trijicon or for holosun mounting. For $70 it’s a win.

I have an early release 5” prodigy. At purchase, it had a phenomenal trigger but had the chronic feeding issues everyone seemed to be experiencing. I also noticed that my slide was hanging up on the disconnector. Original advice was magazine related so I sent my magazines in and they were replaced. Got the new ones and had same issue so sent gun back for warranty service. 2 weeks later it was returned and ran very reliably. However, my trigger felt nothing like what it previously had, and the disconnector issue was still present. The slide also always felt lethargic with the factory recoil spring. Several people commented on feeling the slide creep forward during recoil and it felt like it was killing splits. I purchased an EGW lightened hammer ignition kit with a titanium hammer strut, 11lb recoil spring, red dirt ST prodigy trigger and installed them myself, as my first foray into 2011 modification. There was a little bit of a learning curve on a few things but nothing I couldn’t figure out. I purchased a wheeler trigger scale prior to installing, the post-warranty trigger was breaking at around 6.75-7lbs. Unacceptable in a 2011 trigger. Post-installation of all of the above items, trigger is breaking at 2-2.25lbs and has significantly less pre and post travel. Total cost of the components was $215 and the gun feels arguably the same if not better than my best friends XC. It also feels better than the Dan Wesson Elite Havok I just sold. At a purchase price if $1165, I’m sitting at $1380 on a gun that I think offers the same return as the staccato offerings with plenty of room for magazines, ammo and holsters without touching the price of a factory staccato.

Maybe I’m not shooting enough rounds, but I have done minimal cleaning of my comp and it still looks good.

My open gun is cerakoted from the factory and it has worn away in every spot that it contacts my Guga Ribas holster. In some ways, it looks cool. But if you want a gun that looks like a safe queen, go DLC.

My department was issued Sig P229R Enhanced Elites several years ago which had MIM parts and allegedly they were the reason we had an unbelievable amount of failures…so much so that we ended up terminating our contract and suing Sig for it, and jumping ship to Glock. I’m torn. Without real evidence that it was those parts, I’m not confident, but someone clearly was.

I think a key for me has always been monitoring forums and marketplaces for items that I think are good values, then buying them and selling them for profit. You need to know what’s a good deal and what’s not, but you may be able to shoot a similar single action gun for a little bit and flip it towards a 2011.